watson1987
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2021
- Messages
- 428
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-31 S
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT3119L718
- Vessel Name
- Clifford
- MMSI Number
- 368265640
I recently made the jump to Starlink and went with the High-Performance dish. The HP dish is specifically designed to be used while in motion. I went with the HP dish because it is required to do the marine plan. While most folks use the RV plan, the marine plan guarantees it works on the water. Many have used the RV plan on the water without issue, but there are 'rumors' that they will lock this down 'soon'. The HP dish is much larger and uses more power, two things that aren't ideal for a tiny tug.
Before I got the dish, I planned to remove the sat-tv dome and add a larger mounting plate (made of starboard) to the plate to accommodate the angle mount. However, once I got the dish and saw the dimensions in person, I realized it wouldn't work, and the weight might have put too much strain on the OEM stainless steel plate. I realized that the faux dry-stack exhaust would be a good spot.
I removed the fiberglass shell, attached the mount with machine screws and extra large fender washers to distribute the weight, and silicone everything as I tightened it. I drilled a hole through the roof and fed the wire through, I was able to remove just a few screws from the pilot house 'ceiling and peel down the 'leather' just enough to pull the wire in. From there, I routed it to the starboard side, removed the wood column (where the fusion stereo and shelves are), then routed it down and forward to the berth closet.
I added a Victron 375W inverter and ran a new 8awg/30amp fuse supply off the distribution panels behind the dash. 30amps is a little light for 375W, but the Starlink draws 320W max. I used a separate inverter because there isn't any 120V in the area, and the central boat inverter is less efficient, and I typically leave it off when in motion/on anchor.
The one benefit of the high-performance dish is that there are two separate boxes, one to power the dish, and another is the router they provide. I already have my router with wifi/cell booster, so I only have one box to power with AC, and the cat6 ethernet cable goes right into my router. Some folks have taken apart and wired the standard Starlink dish straight off DC, which is even more efficient than my micro-inverter, but I haven't seen anyone do this for the HP one yet. In the future, if they figure this out with a nice setup, I'll switch over.
After 6 hours, the Starlink app will tell you if there are any obstructions. I was initially worried about the radar arch towards the bow, but the app shows ZERO obstructions (yay)
PHOTOS!
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B14J5HumnJqIHBK
Before I got the dish, I planned to remove the sat-tv dome and add a larger mounting plate (made of starboard) to the plate to accommodate the angle mount. However, once I got the dish and saw the dimensions in person, I realized it wouldn't work, and the weight might have put too much strain on the OEM stainless steel plate. I realized that the faux dry-stack exhaust would be a good spot.
I removed the fiberglass shell, attached the mount with machine screws and extra large fender washers to distribute the weight, and silicone everything as I tightened it. I drilled a hole through the roof and fed the wire through, I was able to remove just a few screws from the pilot house 'ceiling and peel down the 'leather' just enough to pull the wire in. From there, I routed it to the starboard side, removed the wood column (where the fusion stereo and shelves are), then routed it down and forward to the berth closet.
I added a Victron 375W inverter and ran a new 8awg/30amp fuse supply off the distribution panels behind the dash. 30amps is a little light for 375W, but the Starlink draws 320W max. I used a separate inverter because there isn't any 120V in the area, and the central boat inverter is less efficient, and I typically leave it off when in motion/on anchor.
The one benefit of the high-performance dish is that there are two separate boxes, one to power the dish, and another is the router they provide. I already have my router with wifi/cell booster, so I only have one box to power with AC, and the cat6 ethernet cable goes right into my router. Some folks have taken apart and wired the standard Starlink dish straight off DC, which is even more efficient than my micro-inverter, but I haven't seen anyone do this for the HP one yet. In the future, if they figure this out with a nice setup, I'll switch over.
After 6 hours, the Starlink app will tell you if there are any obstructions. I was initially worried about the radar arch towards the bow, but the app shows ZERO obstructions (yay)
PHOTOS!
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B14J5HumnJqIHBK
