Holding tank vent filter

Epilogue

Active member
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Messages
31
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Hull Identification Number
fmlt2120j011
Vessel Name
The Last Word . . .
Hi fellow TugNuts.... I am contemplating installing a Big Orange vent filter on my R25SC (2014). Have any of you done this and how was your experience with it? Will I have to do any modifications to the space behind the stern seat (where the vent line is?) Will the filter fit there satisfactorily? Is it relatively easy to do? and finally, does it work? Any comments and helpful advice would be most welcome! thanks. Happy weekend. Bill - The Last Word, 2014 R 25 SC (Volvo 150)
 
You can make your own for about a 1/4 the price. I've been using one for a couple of years and it works great.
This link will tell you all about it and there is a pic in my photo album of it installed on my 25SC. If the tank ever overfills and backs up into the filter change the charcoal.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3921&p=29936&hilit=Waste+tank+filter#p29936
 
Brian,

Does the homemade filter cause issues during pump out? Any issue with a collapsing tank?

Curt
 
Red Raven":28gleeuc said:
Brian,

Does the homemade filter cause issues during pump out? Any issue with a collapsing tank?

Curt
No issues at all.
 
Second Brian's suggestion. I made one for Just Dreamin' 6 years ago and it works great with no issues at pump out. Cost if I recall was about $15-20 as I had a piece of PVC in the shop. Charcoal purchased at Walmart and still using same bag. Most difficult task I have is remembering to refresh the charcoal on occasion.
 
I was not as smart as Brian and Just Dreaming' in that I bought a new Dometic charcoal filter. After its useful life I converted that filter to as shown in the link. They work and no problems....other then one needs to make sure your holding tank never gets full enough to wash up into the filter. If this happens you need to rebuild the unit with new charcoal, etc.

Jim F
 
Just thought I would add my 2c worth here. This issue recently came to my wife's notice while out for a Sunday afternoon cruise and I received immediate orders to "fix it". I thought about making the homemade variety but with an eye to time involved and my leaning toward simplicity (I'm not inclined to be "handy") I went with the Big Orange Filter. I also like the idea of a built in relief valve. At roughly US$105 (CDN$140) the whole thing arrived on my doorstep and was an easy install on top of the tank. I had a couple of questions and Al answered my email promptly. I later found the answers were in the FAQs on the site in any case. Seems really successful and refilling is a breeze without undoing clamps etc. Photo in our gallery.
 
I installed a vent filter as you described on Shearwater IV, Our R-25. It eliminates all the smell but there is a problem.

I accidently filled the tank to the very top. The resultant waste clogged the filter, impeding pump out until I disconnected the filter inlet. Once the filter inlet hose (the end nearest the tank) was removed, pump out worked normally and I screwed in a new filter.

It took only a few minutes to install once I gained access by removing the wet bar like thing in the cabinet at the rear. The entire install, including washing the remains off my hands, took under an hour. I replaced the vent hose from the filter to the vent with new since this portion of the hose carried only sweet air.

I also installed a SCAD SOLO and a TANK EDGE INI (a total of four units, I'm a slow learner) to monitor the waste tank levels. None of these worked more than one week - the circuit boards are open to the humidity in the head area and they failed immediately with green crud.

Filter good, monitor bad/
 
I will offer an alternative perspective on addressing the all-too-common issue of holding tank odor. When we purchased our then 2-year old R27, we inherited not only a reeking holding tank; but also a stench that had lingered inside the boat as well. Like most, my initial action was to install a filter system. However, anything that adds ongoing maintainence and cost gets extra scrutiny before I add it to my boat, and I did some research around CAUSE of the issue rather than the SYMPTOM. My findings:

A) Purchased the small book, "Get Rid Of Boat Odors" written by Peggie Hall, AKA "The Headmistress". Available on Amazon for $9.95. Best ten bucks you'll ever spend!

B) Stopped using my old holding tank treatment chemicals which were not working. Purchased "Odorlos", a holding tank treatment that adheres to the principles espoused in Peggie Hall's book, which is to utilize oxygen as a solution rather than a problem. Think about it: when you add a filter to your waste system you are trapping (masking) the problem. Instead, this is how Odorlos works:

"Provides naturally occurring bacteria with a continuous supply of the best alternative energy source to pure oxygen - nitrates." A 6 lb. tub costs $21.34 at Amazon, and for our 30 gal. holding tank one treatment is about 2 oz., so each tank treatment is literally pennies ($0.22/oz. = $0.44/tank).

The other learning is that leaving any saltwater in the holding tank provides a breeding ground for bad, smelly bacteria. This part is intuitive: saltwater contains all kinds of living organisms that, left in the tank in between boating trips, breed and/or die and begin to stink. Previously, after emptying the blackwater from the holding tank I would pump back in a gallon or two of saltwater (either from the toilet and or from the aft spraydown nozzle) and add the old type of treatment to this. Left alone in between boat usage (with no waste transferred from toilet to holding tank) the tank would begin to stink. That's right, without even adding waste - which is a big clue as to the root of the problem.

Now, here's what I do instead: after emptying the holding tank (and flushing with salt water a couple of times to ensure tank is relatively clear) I add two small scoops of Odorlos directly into the toilet. I then add one gallon of FRESH water into the toilet bowl and flush into the holding tank. That's it.

However, don't be too thrifty with flushing the toilet while on your boat. If you "short-flush" only enough to move contents from the bowl, but not enough to TRANSPORT contents from the toilet through the hoses and all the way into the holding tank you invite the problem. That's because another cause of odor is leaving contents in the untreated hose and not reaching the treatment center (holding tank). The "cost" of filling up your holding tank a little sooner is well worth it compared to managing odor that has permeated your hoses.

Results: not only is the old stench gone, from both the tank and throughout the interior compartments, but it has never returned. We are are well into 2 years on this system and it has worked to perfection, and no additional installation or filters to change out perpetually. I would have shared this sooner, but in fact wanted to go a long enough period to prove the results worked and were not temporary. I'm now convinced enough to recommend this approach without any reservation.

Mark Leopold
Seaquel
R27 (2013)
 
Mark/Sequel - awesome post! I just purchased the book and Odorlos. Funny thing is I don't really have a problem yet as our boat is still fairly new. But having been on boats with the funky head odor I definitely want to stay on top of it!
 
Bill, I bought one last year and it works great.

Pat
 
Mark:

Thanks for your very thorough waste treatment explanation. I've also just ordered the 6 lb. tub.

Thanks again,

Jim
 
Great post... thanks. 🙂

As an aside, and related to using salt water for the head, I swapped out our 2010 R-25's manual head for a ECO Tecmar electric flush model. It cost me around $1000 to make the swap and as part of the installation I decided to plumb the head to use the boat's fresh water system. I made this choice for at least three reasons...

1) We consume/drink ONLY fresh water from bottles... never use the boat's fresh water facility.
2) The boat's fresh water is used ONLY for dish washing, washing hands, occasional shower, and now the head/toilet (that is, on our previous R-25).
3) Using fresh water for the head is much much less conducive for causing odors compared to salt water.

The fresh water connection for the head was easily done as just a T connection was necessary under the sink. I left the stock plumbing alone so that in the event the original plumbing was needed it could be done simply. To use the electric flush head it was necessary to have the boat's fresh water pump breaker switch turned ON.

Over 6 years we had absolutely no odor.

Now, when we get our new 2018 R-27 with its electric flush head which uses salt water we will adopt your suggestion in the hopes we encounter no nasty odors.

Thank you for posting your experience in this matter. 🙂
 
I thought about switching to fresh water plumbing since the issue with salt water is well known but decided to leave the system set up as original. We just pull the shower head from the sink and use that for the head, pumping to tank as usual. That way we always have a back up if the fresh water is running low.
 
Chimo:

Excellent alternative.... 🙂

You have the R-25SC, right ? Isn't the head a manual marine head ? If so, then pouring fresh water into the bowl using water from the shower head and then pumping the handle will surely use some salt water as well as the shower water. Maybe I'm wrong about this, so could others correct me on this if so ?

Hmmmmm....

I'm thinking the pump handle has two states; one for drawing water into the bowl (i.e., salt water) and the other being to flush out the bowl. If so, then your method should be AOK so long as you never draw salt water into the bowl, right?

I may just adopt this method for our new 2018 R-27's electric flush head. The downside to this method for my 1st mate is that the use of the head is made more complicated, and with her Parkinson's and terrible balance she will get upset with me if I ask her to do more than push a button switch. Alternatively, it would be up to me being responsible for always flushing the head using the fresh water technique. Not a very good solution when we have passengers onboard though. 🙁 😱
 
baz":2g9wtzdw said:
Chimo:

Excellent alternative.... 🙂

You have the R-25SC, right ? Isn't the head a manual marine head ? If so, then pouring fresh water into the bowl using water from the shower head and then pumping the handle will surely use some salt water as well as the shower water. Maybe I'm wrong about this, so could others correct me on this if so ?

Hmmmmm....

I'm thinking the pump handle has two states; one for drawing water into the bowl (i.e., salt water) and the other being to flush out the bowl. If so, then your method should be AOK so long as you never draw salt water into the bowl, right?

I may just adopt this method for our new 2018 R-27's electric flush head. The downside to this method for my 1st mate is that the use of the head is made more complicated, and with her Parkinson's and terrible balance she will get upset with me if I ask her to do more than push a button switch. Alternatively, it would be up to me being responsible for always flushing the head using the fresh water technique. Not a very good solution when we have passengers onboard though. 🙁 😱


You are pretty much correct. There is a lever that selects either drawing salt water or evacuating the bowl. The pump handle simply turns to either a locked position or a pump position. As long as you don't select the drawing water option on the lever there's no issue.
 
I installed the big orange.Chose it because it has the bypass to eliminate pump out problems. On 5th year with no problems and original charcoal.
 
We purchased the big orange last year hoping to be "green" by being able to replace the filters. After a year and the boat still smelled like sewage, hubby removed it gladly and threw it away and replaced it with the Eco vent we purchased at West Marine. No more smell! Mind you, we are a family of 4, therefore the head is used a lot! Hubby is quite handy, but didn't have time to build a unit as others have indicated. Good luck.
 
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