gsc3
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2017
- Messages
- 72
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-32 C
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLC2454L516
- Vessel Name
- Sojourner
- MMSI Number
- 338229582
I have added a Honda 2000 watt generator (EU2000i) on our 2016 Cutwater C24 to use at anchor to charge batteries, and to power the Whale electric cooktop (1247-5100), the microwave, the water heater, or the Websato air conditioner (FCF 0009000 GS) at anchor or underway. Posts by others have described using Honda generators on the swim platform of Ranger Tug or Cutwater boats. However, I wanted to keep the generator in the center hatch of the cockpit when it was not being used, and to put the generator on the starboard side of the cockpit, just forward of the gate from the cockpit to the swim platform, when it was being used. I had three main concerns: The first was that the generator be securely held when stored in the hatch, so it would not move when underway, which could damage the generator, but more importantly could damage the seawater strainers on the two seacocks at the front of the hatch. My second concern was that exhaust from the generator, running in the cockpit, not collect there or enter the boat’s cabin. Finally, I was concerned that the generator be securely held in the cockpit when the boat was underway.
As delivered, our boat had a starboard-like platform on the bottom the center hatch of the cockpit, about 1/4 inch thick, probably not strong enough to support the generator without bending. However, with the generator sitting on this platform, the height of the generator was just small enough to allow the hatch to close over it. I reinforced the platform by placing a 1/2 inch thick piece of marine plywood under it, and by adding pieces of 2x4 crosswise under the plywood, to fit snugly in the bottom of the hatch, without raising the platform. To keep the generator from sliding around on the platform, I cut four 2-1/2 inch diameter holes through the platform to accommodate the four feet of the generator, which then was supported by the underlying plywood sheet. The generator sits with its short dimension along the length of the boat. The reinforced platform was secured in the hatch by six screws passing through the platform and into the fiberglass and underlying stringers of the boat. To further secure the generator, I installed three U-bolts through the platform, which hold a 1 inch wide strap that passes over the generator, looped through the generator handle. This strap can also be used to secure a 3 gal fuel container next to the generator. (See photos of the platform, with [1] and without [2] the generator.) As noted below, I no longer use this fuel container.
For running the generator on the deck of the cockpit, I built a wooden platform to raise the base of the generator 4 inches, so the generator exhaust outlet is 4 inches above the bottom of the gate between the cockpit and the swim platform. I cut a 4-1/2 inch diameter hole through this gate, centered on the generator exhaust outlet, and I mounted a 4-inch plastic deck plate in the hole, which is open when the generator is running, and it is closed otherwise. (See photos from swim platform, open [3] and closed [4].) The wooden platform, two layers of 1/2 inch plywood on a frame of 2x4’s, has cutouts for the generator’s feet in the top plywood layer, to help to secure the generator. A rubber sheet is attached to the 2x4’s on the base of the platform, to keep it from sliding on the floor of the cockpit. Two 1 inch wide straps pass under the starboard cockpit hatch cover, on which the platform and generator sit, and pass around the generator, looped through its handle, further to hold the generator in place. (See photos of platform, with [5] and without [6] generator.)
A heavy duty extension cord runs from the generator to a pigtail adapter at the boat’s 30-amp electric power input. The 2000 watt generator is capable of powering the boat’s battery charger (330 watts at 20A charging), and either the cooktop (1300 watts), microwave (1200 watts), water heater (1200 watts) or the AC unit (820 watts), but not more than one of these high wattage units at the same time. When powering the AC unit, it is necessary to switch the generator’s ECO-mode to “off”. (Thanks to BB Marine’s Brian Brown for this guidance!)
To avoid having to keep an onboard container of gasoline for the generator, I took advantage of an otherwise unused outlet port on the boat’s fuel tank. By adding a thread-to-thread adapter at the port, I could attach a self-closing fixture like those used on outboard fuel tanks. (See photo [7].) I then used an in-line compression-bulb fuel pump with a hose and fitting to attach to the fuel tank fixture on the input side of the pump, and a hose with a clip to hold it securely into the generator’s fuel port on the output side of the pump. (See photo [8].) About 1-minute’s pumping is enough to transfer gasoline from the boat’s fuel tank to the generator’s tank to fill it.
So far this arrangement works well. I have two CO-detectors in the boat, one at the entrance to the “cave” and the other in the V-berth. Running the generator, even with the salon-to-cockpit door open, has not setoff either alarm, but normally this door is kept closed when the generator is running, because of the generator’s noise.
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77694
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77697
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77700
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77703
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77706
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77709
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77712
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77715
As delivered, our boat had a starboard-like platform on the bottom the center hatch of the cockpit, about 1/4 inch thick, probably not strong enough to support the generator without bending. However, with the generator sitting on this platform, the height of the generator was just small enough to allow the hatch to close over it. I reinforced the platform by placing a 1/2 inch thick piece of marine plywood under it, and by adding pieces of 2x4 crosswise under the plywood, to fit snugly in the bottom of the hatch, without raising the platform. To keep the generator from sliding around on the platform, I cut four 2-1/2 inch diameter holes through the platform to accommodate the four feet of the generator, which then was supported by the underlying plywood sheet. The generator sits with its short dimension along the length of the boat. The reinforced platform was secured in the hatch by six screws passing through the platform and into the fiberglass and underlying stringers of the boat. To further secure the generator, I installed three U-bolts through the platform, which hold a 1 inch wide strap that passes over the generator, looped through the generator handle. This strap can also be used to secure a 3 gal fuel container next to the generator. (See photos of the platform, with [1] and without [2] the generator.) As noted below, I no longer use this fuel container.
For running the generator on the deck of the cockpit, I built a wooden platform to raise the base of the generator 4 inches, so the generator exhaust outlet is 4 inches above the bottom of the gate between the cockpit and the swim platform. I cut a 4-1/2 inch diameter hole through this gate, centered on the generator exhaust outlet, and I mounted a 4-inch plastic deck plate in the hole, which is open when the generator is running, and it is closed otherwise. (See photos from swim platform, open [3] and closed [4].) The wooden platform, two layers of 1/2 inch plywood on a frame of 2x4’s, has cutouts for the generator’s feet in the top plywood layer, to help to secure the generator. A rubber sheet is attached to the 2x4’s on the base of the platform, to keep it from sliding on the floor of the cockpit. Two 1 inch wide straps pass under the starboard cockpit hatch cover, on which the platform and generator sit, and pass around the generator, looped through its handle, further to hold the generator in place. (See photos of platform, with [5] and without [6] generator.)
A heavy duty extension cord runs from the generator to a pigtail adapter at the boat’s 30-amp electric power input. The 2000 watt generator is capable of powering the boat’s battery charger (330 watts at 20A charging), and either the cooktop (1300 watts), microwave (1200 watts), water heater (1200 watts) or the AC unit (820 watts), but not more than one of these high wattage units at the same time. When powering the AC unit, it is necessary to switch the generator’s ECO-mode to “off”. (Thanks to BB Marine’s Brian Brown for this guidance!)
To avoid having to keep an onboard container of gasoline for the generator, I took advantage of an otherwise unused outlet port on the boat’s fuel tank. By adding a thread-to-thread adapter at the port, I could attach a self-closing fixture like those used on outboard fuel tanks. (See photo [7].) I then used an in-line compression-bulb fuel pump with a hose and fitting to attach to the fuel tank fixture on the input side of the pump, and a hose with a clip to hold it securely into the generator’s fuel port on the output side of the pump. (See photo [8].) About 1-minute’s pumping is enough to transfer gasoline from the boat’s fuel tank to the generator’s tank to fill it.
So far this arrangement works well. I have two CO-detectors in the boat, one at the entrance to the “cave” and the other in the V-berth. Running the generator, even with the salon-to-cockpit door open, has not setoff either alarm, but normally this door is kept closed when the generator is running, because of the generator’s noise.
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77694
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77697
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77700
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77703
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77706
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77709
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77712
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=77715