House to boat's 30 amp?

Z

Zundels

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
117
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2515G809
Vessel Name
(2009) Kya Rose
Would like to plug in the R25 in to the house 110 power, any suggestions for which pigtail I should be using to connect my home extension cord to the boat's shore power plug? Z
 
Well, yes... I got mine somewhere - I think it was West Marine - paid too much but it was quick-n-easy... You can order them also off the web - dozens of marine suppliers, just do a search...
 
We carry a couple adapters with us for easy shore power when on land: one is an adapter to a standard 15 amp household plug, the other is an adapter to a standard 30 amp campground plug. When trailering long distances, we often stay in campgrounds; nice to have the 30 amp (for an electric heater, microwave, etc). You can buy either at WM or other boat supply places or go to an electrical supply place and buy the pieces to make your own.
 
I'm having a problem getting correct power through a 15 amp adapter. I used the Marinco PowerCord PLUS Adapter, 15A Male Plug, 30A Female Connector to hook up my regular shore power cord. My multi-meter reads 122volts at the 30amp side before I connect it to the boat's shore power receiver. After it's connected, the green pilot light on boat's AC panel lights up, but the boat's AC voltage meter reads barely any voltage. If I then engage the boat's 30 amp breaker, it trips the outlet's GFI. During this process, all load breakers are off.

Is there some reason that the Tug's system won't accept 15amp service? My goal is to power the battery charger over the winter to maintain the batteries while on land.

Thanks for any thoughts,

Steve
 
Sounds like the boats voltage meter is reading the neutral leg rather than the Black (or red) meaning the receptacle you are getting power from have the black and white reversed. A volt meter reading across black to white. would read 120 volts but from white to bond or ground it would read a very low voltage.

Just a thought, a good electricion would probably say I'm nuts. 😳 A VOM meter will tell you in a minute.

captd
 
You can get a little tester at most hardware or electrical stores that looks like a 3 prong electrical plug with lights. Usually costs less than $10 ($8.21 at Lowes). This will test all three wires to ensure the receptacle is wired properly. I have seen a lot of camp sites and marina's that were wired wrong, which could give you a shock or harm your equipment.

Here is the link to the tester at Lowes.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_292761-1270...=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=electrical+tester
 
Steve,
First, let me state..... I am not an electrician..... Don't pretend to be, don't want to be...... The information I am about to give I have observed from others...... with that said...

When you say it trips the GFI, are you talking about the GFI on the land side or one on your boat? We had the same problem on our R-25 Solitude. If you plugged her shore power in when she was on the trailer, she would trip the GFI she was plugged into.

This started at delivery time. The mechanic at Lake Union Searay who was handling the delivery, clipped a ground wire that was connected to the 12 volt gauge from the 120 circuit. This stopped the problem. However, we then noticed that all circuits were hot even before we switched on the 30 amp breaker to energize the remaining breakers. After reading an article in Passage Maker how shore power shorts are the number one cause of fires on boats, I had Andrew check it out. It seems the shore power connections were connected incorrectly at the breaker panel.....

Not sure if this helps..... again, not an electrician..... I can decorate you a nice cake though!
 
Thanks for these ideas. You've all given me some great leads to follow up.

Steve
 
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