I posted this in my messages to help answer a question from a fellow TugNuter's and thought I'd post it here incase others are interested in doing this to their boat engine. It really helps keep my engine run cool even in these very warm South Florida waters.
I hope the picture comes through if not it is in my gallery.
I used pool tubing as it is inexpensive and is easily reduced using Home Depot pipe and tube fittings. I can't remember where I purchased the tubing but I found this 1 1/2" tubing on Amazon.
I believe the tubing size I used was 1 3/4", which was close to the 1 1/2" tubing on the D4 260hp engine. I removed the impeller and placed the cover back on the housing. (Because the impeller is a pain to replace I do the flush process only when it is time to replace the impeller.)
I remove the hose coming off the sea strainer and going to the raw water impeller pump. I used a reduction fitting, 1 3/4" -> 1 1/2" to connect a piece of the pool hose long enough to reach the 5 gallon bucket. I then connected a bilge pump to the other end, using an adapter, and put the bilge pump into the bucket.
I used some wire and a couple of alligator clips to attach the bilge pump to the boat's battery bank.
I next disconnected the line coming from the transmission cooler going to the exhaust flange just after the turbo and just before the large blue silicone tubing for the main exhaust port. You can see some of this connection in the photo. It is the hose coming off the top of the trans running to the exhaust elbow. I then connected more pool tubing to this line coming out of the transmission cooler long enough to reach the bucket.
Next place a clamp on the small water line going to the stuffing box as the solution will escape through this tube if it isn't clamped off. I generally double it over and carefully place a clothespin type clamp on it as the pressure is fairly small.
Fill the bucket with Barnacle Buster and water. Have the hose handy as the system may need more water once you turn on the bilge pump.
Turn on the bilge pump and the Barnacle Buster solution should flow the closed system into the raw water pump, trhough the heat exchanger down through the transmission cooler and into the bucket. The bilge pump will continue to circulate the solution around this closed circuit as long as you leave it running. I generally run it for one to 2 hours depending on how dirty the solution return is. As you can see in this picture the return was pretty bad.
Make sure to keep an eye on the system while it's running as on one occasion I had a line work loose and pumped solution into the bilge. The first time I did this I used a cheap low output bilge pump that burned up after 20 minutes of use. I purchased a better pump with a higher output and it had, I believe, an 1 1/2" outlet, may have even been larger, which was easier to adapt to the pool hose. I ran this pump for a half hour at a time, letting it cool off for a few minutes in-between, and did this for two hours.
Once you finish with the Barnacle Buster you can empty the bucket and fill it with fresh water a couple of times to rinse the system out.
I hope this makes sense. I have attached a video link where they are doing the same thing but on a MUCH bigger engine/scale but the principles are the same. They take out the impeller, attach a fitting/reducer to the raw water pump intake hose, remove the raw water exit hose, (comingoff the transmission cooler on our engines), going into the exhaust and attach another fitting/reducer and hose to connect it to theirbucket.. A pump, (bilge), is connected to the raw water pump hose and the solution flows through the system and out the exhaust hose and back into the bucket.
Notice how they removed the much larger stuffing box cooling hose and put a plug in it. As I said earlier, it's the same idea just on a MUCH LARGER scale.
I hopes this helps! . Terry
The video link I mentioned above is posted here along with a labeled picture of my setup. "Transfer " is supposed to be Trans cooler.........I hate spellchecker!
I do the same system on our R27 Classic every other season with the exception that I use the existing raw water wash down pump To pump the fluid. Good system. Works great 🙂
I posted this in my messages to help answer a question from a fellow TugNuter's and thought I'd post it here incase others are interested in doing this to their boat engine. It really helps keep my engine run cool even in these very warm South Florida waters.
I hope the picture comes through if not it is in my gallery.
I used pool tubing as it is inexpensive and is easily reduced using Home Depot pipe and tube fittings. I can't remember where I purchased the tubing but I found this 1 1/2" tubing on Amazon.
I believe the tubing size I used was 1 3/4", which was close to the 1 1/2" tubing on the D4 260hp engine. I removed the impeller and placed the cover back on the housing. (Because the impeller is a pain to replace I do the flush process only when it is time to replace the impeller.)
I remove the hose coming off the sea strainer and going to the raw water impeller pump. I used a reduction fitting, 1 3/4" -> 1 1/2" to connect a piece of the pool hose long enough to reach the 5 gallon bucket. I then connected a bilge pump to the other end, using an adapter, and put the bilge pump into the bucket.
I used some wire and a couple of alligator clips to attach the bilge pump to the boat's battery bank.
I next disconnected the line coming from the transmission cooler going to the exhaust flange just after the turbo and just before the large blue silicone tubing for the main exhaust port. You can see some of this connection in the photo. It is the hose coming off the top of the trans running to the exhaust elbow. I then connected more pool tubing to this line coming out of the transmission cooler long enough to reach the bucket.
Next place a clamp on the small water line going to the stuffing box as the solution will escape through this tube if it isn't clamped off. I generally double it over and carefully place a clothespin type clamp on it as the pressure is fairly small.
Fill the bucket with Barnacle Buster and water. Have the hose handy as the system may need more water once you turn on the bilge pump.
Turn on the bilge pump and the Barnacle Buster solution should flow the closed system into the raw water pump, trhough the heat exchanger down through the transmission cooler and into the bucket. The bilge pump will continue to circulate the solution around this closed circuit as long as you leave it running. I generally run it for one to 2 hours depending on how dirty the solution return is. As you can see in this picture the return was pretty bad.
Make sure to keep an eye on the system while it's running as on one occasion I had a line work loose and pumped solution into the bilge. The first time I did this I used a cheap low output bilge pump that burned up after 20 minutes of use. I purchased a better pump with a higher output and it had, I believe, an 1 1/2" outlet, may have even been larger, which was easier to adapt to the pool hose. I ran this pump for a half hour at a time, letting it cool off for a few minutes in-between, and did this for two hours.
Once you finish with the Barnacle Buster you can empty the bucket and fill it with fresh water a couple of times to rinse the system out.
I hope this makes sense. I have attached a video link where they are doing the same thing but on a MUCH bigger engine/scale but the principles are the same. They take out the impeller, attach a fitting/reducer to the raw water pump intake hose, remove the raw water exit hose, (comingoff the transmission cooler on our engines), going into the exhaust and attach another fitting/reducer and hose to connect it to theirbucket.. A pump, (bilge), is connected to the raw water pump hose and the solution flows through the system and out the exhaust hose and back into the bucket.
Notice how they removed the much larger stuffing box cooling hose and put a plug in it. As I said earlier, it's the same idea just on a MUCH LARGER scale.
I hopes this helps! . Terry
I posted this in my messages to help answer a question from a fellow TugNuter's and thought I'd post it here incase others are interested in doing this to their boat engine. It really helps keep my engine run cool even in these very warm South Florida waters.
I hope the picture comes through if not it is in my gallery.
I used pool tubing as it is inexpensive and is easily reduced using Home Depot pipe and tube fittings. I can't remember where I purchased the tubing but I found this 1 1/2" tubing on Amazon.
I believe the tubing size I used was 1 3/4", which was close to the 1 1/2" tubing on the D4 260hp engine. I removed the impeller and placed the cover back on the housing. (Because the impeller is a pain to replace I do the flush process only when it is time to replace the impeller.)
I remove the hose coming off the sea strainer and going to the raw water impeller pump. I used a reduction fitting, 1 3/4" -> 1 1/2" to connect a piece of the pool hose long enough to reach the 5 gallon bucket. I then connected a bilge pump to the other end, using an adapter, and put the bilge pump into the bucket.
I used some wire and a couple of alligator clips to attach the bilge pump to the boat's battery bank.
I next disconnected the line coming from the transmission cooler going to the exhaust flange just after the turbo and just before the large blue silicone tubing for the main exhaust port. You can see some of this connection in the photo. It is the hose coming off the top of the trans running to the exhaust elbow. I then connected more pool tubing to this line coming out of the transmission cooler long enough to reach the bucket.
Next place a clamp on the small water line going to the stuffing box as the solution will escape through this tube if it isn't clamped off. I generally double it over and carefully place a clothespin type clamp on it as the pressure is fairly small.
Fill the bucket with Barnacle Buster and water. Have the hose handy as the system may need more water once you turn on the bilge pump.
Turn on the bilge pump and the Barnacle Buster solution should flow the closed system into the raw water pump, trhough the heat exchanger down through the transmission cooler and into the bucket. The bilge pump will continue to circulate the solution around this closed circuit as long as you leave it running. I generally run it for one to 2 hours depending on how dirty the solution return is. As you can see in this picture the return was pretty bad.
Make sure to keep an eye on the system while it's running as on one occasion I had a line work loose and pumped solution into the bilge. The first time I did this I used a cheap low output bilge pump that burned up after 20 minutes of use. I purchased a better pump with a higher output and it had, I believe, an 1 1/2" outlet, may have even been larger, which was easier to adapt to the pool hose. I ran this pump for a half hour at a time, letting it cool off for a few minutes in-between, and did this for two hours.
Once you finish with the Barnacle Buster you can empty the bucket and fill it with fresh water a couple of times to rinse the system out.
I hope this makes sense. I have attached a video link where they are doing the same thing but on a MUCH bigger engine/scale but the principles are the same. They take out the impeller, attach a fitting/reducer to the raw water pump intake hose, remove the raw water exit hose, (comingoff the transmission cooler on our engines), going into the exhaust and attach another fitting/reducer and hose to connect it to theirbucket.. A pump, (bilge), is connected to the raw water pump hose and the solution flows through the system and out the exhaust hose and back into the bucket.
Notice how they removed the much larger stuffing box cooling hose and put a plug in it. As I said earlier, it's the same idea just on a MUCH LARGER scale.
I hopes this helps! . Terry
Thanks, I often wonder why either engine or boat manufacturers do not design their products with flush systems so that we as owners do not have to Jerry rig up apparatuses to keep their product operating. Same for winterization of water and engines.
