How not to check the water impeller for damage

[baz]

Mike: Thanks... I should have included a paper towel and a 6-pack in my photo of the tools I'll be using. 😉 The paper towel use is a very good tip. 🙂

At this point, I feel very confident I will be able to replace my impeller without to much time/effort.

As an aside, my slip neighbor was watching me prepare things today and asked what I was doing. After explaining things he said he will never ever replace his impeller again on his Volvo Penta D4 engine and will get someone else to do it in the future. When he replaced his impeller after some 300 engine hours he said his impeller was in perfect condition and has simply placed it into his spares kit in case its needed in an emergency. Even though he has great access to his Volvo engine he indicated there are so many pipes and wires criss crossing around the impeller housing that it was a nightmare DIY project.

One quick question for you... when replacing the 4x 6mm hex bolts did you use any marine grade grease to avoid them binding over time and to make it easier in future to unscrew them ? Thanks... 🙂

 

[knotflying]

No, no grease on the hex bolts. You should be checking your impeller regularly so they shouldn't freeze up. 😀

And as an aside your slip neighbor has his list of things I will not do and mine is: Roofing, cutting down trees and bottom paint. I have learned to pick my battles.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Barry: I can see now why the impeller project on your 25 is a one person job. It appears you have as good a grasp on the project as anyone. When you've finished with the change out and before you put the beauty covers back on fire the engine up to check for any leaks and to make sure the belt is back into position. Even after I changed mine and tested the engine and thought the belt was back onto the pulley 100% I found the belt off by one groove. I see the belt would be easier to adjust with the beauty covers off. Good luck,

 

[baz]

Mike:
Got it... no grease on the 6mm hex bolts. Schedule periodic impeller inspection for 1st Mate. :lol:

Sometimes unfortunately battles develops for the unwitting... 😉

Jim:
One issue with the starboard side engine beauty cover is that one of the securing bolts is 100% in line and under the cockpit engine lid/cover's drain gutter. Unscrewing this bolt will eventually cause its head to rise and contact the fiber glass before its fully unscrewed. I pried up the fiber glass above the bolt's head a tad (as much as I dared to avoid splitting/cracking it) but this was insufficient and the bolt still required a few more turns to come out. So I screwed it back down for time being and reinserted all the easy to remove bolts and 'called it a day'.

I've been thinking about how to resolve this...

Option 1
Drill a hole in the water runoff gutter directly above the bolt so I can removed it with a socket wrench. However, unless I somehow can plug that hole easily with say, a small cork plug or some decent holding adhesive tape, water will find its way down the hole and drip onto the engine beauty cover and then down into the bilge presumably.

Option 2
Drill a hole as in Option 1, remove the bolt completely and discard it and then patch/repair the hole and be done with it. That is, ignore having this bolt for helping with securing the beauty cover and hope that no harmonic rattles result with the cover not being bolted down at this point. I know this type harmonic vibration issue can occur as a year back after replacing my port side beauty cover two of the retaining bolts were not seated all the way down, and I found at around 2800 RPM there was this really nasty rattle from the engine area that made me think a crank arm had snapped or tappets were flying around in the engine somewhere. :roll: I had to avoid running the engine between 2600 and 3000 RPM to avoid the noise.

Option 3
Ignore the issue and never attempt to remove the starboard side beauty cover myself. :lol: Let the mechanic whoever has to work on the engine requiring the cover to be removed deal with it. 😉

 

[sidecarist]

Option 4, It may be possible to unscrew the bolt enough that you can cut the head off and then remove the cover. When replacing the cover use a nut on the remainder of the bolt, or install a stud long enough to allow use of a stud, or use a new bolt short enough to allow it to clear the gutter.

I'm not yet a ranger owner, but have done this trick on many projects over the years.

Best of luck!

Bob

 

[baz]

Option 4, It may be possible to unscrew the bolt enough that you can cut the head off and then remove the cover. When replacing the cover use a nut on the remainder of the bolt, or install a stud long enough to allow use of a stud, or use a new bolt short enough to allow it to clear the gutter.

I'm not yet a ranger owner, but have done this trick on many projects over the years.

Best of luck!

Bob

Bob: An excellent suggestion, and it sounds like you've been down this path before. I like the idea of cutting the head off (using standalone hack saw blade), remove the beauty cover, unscrew the headless bolt with pliers and then use a shorter bolt that when unscrewed clears the gutter with room to spare. Great idea... thanks. 🙂 Collaboration at its best.

 

[knotflying]

Option 5 - cut bolt as in option 4 then get new bolt and cut it just short of hitting the fiberglass. also, I am pretty sure these are either hardened bolts or stainless so cutting them may take a bit of doing. Fine blade slow cutting should do the trick.

 

[baz]

OK... I took the plunge today as I had a few hours to spare and was convinced I would have the impeller replacement completed before heading over to my son's place for dinner.

However, it was not to be... I did not finish the project but did make it over to my son's place and his two wonderful children named Dominic and Petra. They are both such a delight and took my mind off the difficulties I had with the impeller replacement today.

Brief summary (some may call it the Executive Summary)...
Even though I consider myself handy I will not attempt this DIY impeller replacement again as it's far too difficult, hurts my arms tremendously, causes my eye glasses to steam up at the worst possible times, it's too time consuming and requires almost more patience than I have. I cannot fathom people doing this particular task for a living except if they get paid really BIG bucks for doing it.

So what happened today...

Using a small diameter screw driver shank I was able to pry of the impeller pulley belt... not a big problem but was done carefully and not done in a hurry to avoid damaging the belt and the pulley. Left the belt down in the bilge on top of my towel catcher. I noted there is no pulley belt tensioning device provided by Yanmar... :roll:

1) First problem/issue was that even though I could get a line of sight on three of the impeller housing retaining hex head bolts and managed to remove them reasonably easily, the forth one was a real PITA as it was completely concealed from view. I dropped one of the first three bolts removed but the towel catcher and my springy 4' long magnetic retriever tool resolved that for me. The forth bolt was completely hidden from my line of sight and after some 2 hours I managed to get my 6mm bit into its head somehow and remove it as well. It took every inch of patience I had available and was tempted to start in on my 6-pack prematurely. During this 2 hours I took at least three breaks from being on my belly and struggling with just one hand squeezed through the round floor port hole to the impeller pulley. My breaks were to walk the dock to stretch my limbs and muscles, gather up some sun rays and to reflect on my folly and how on earth to remove the forth bolt.

2) On the R-25 it is not possible to get both hands down to the pulley. One hand goes through the floor port hole and the other down through the gap of the step hole on port side and stretched over as far as was possible, but not quite far enough over to the pulley area but close enough to help leverage the socket wrench when the 6mm eventually engage the bolt head securely. Both arms get a real work out and the fiber glass edges bite seriously into the forearm. I have at least a dozen laceration on both arms at this time and look very very red. My left arm is badly bruised and my wife when she saw the arm though I had some kind of weird skin infection. I thought of taking a photo but resisted as I didn't want to alarm the readers here. 😉

3) So with all four bolts removed I then proceeded to pull the pulley off from the impeller. This came out easily, water dripped out and I was able to wiggle the pulley sideways and up through the opened step hole. Set it aside. Now the impeller was exposed and next task was to extract it. Using long nose pliers I eased it out noting which way the impeller vanes were bent. The large diameter O-ring kind of flopped out and I put that aside.

4) I inspected the impeller and found it to be in pristine condition. No cracks, no splits, no nothing... it was in perfect condition... Boo hiss. Just what was I doing replacing this good looking and fully operational impeller ?????? I examined the bronze shaft bearing and it did not have the circular grooves at one end as did my new impeller ! So from this I decided it made no difference which way I placed the new impeller into the impeller housing.

5) So now I had to get the new impeller into the housing. I used a zip tie to surround the new impeller's vanes and attempted to bend them in one direction. This was easier said than done... but I kind of managed to do it. I covered the ends of the vanes with the supplied glycerin as well as liberally inside the impeller housing as instructed in the packaging material. I then eased the new impeller into the housing with just one hand as you will recall I could not get two hands on the jobs. I managed to get in partly in while turning the impeller in a clockwise direction, but then it would simply not go in further with the strength of just one hand outstretched and very tired. Scratched my head at this point and then the brain told me to get the impeller pulley and place it's shaft into the impeller that was only just inserted and use it to push the impeller down into place. This did the trick.... 😉

6) Now I had to place the new O-ring into place... and Oh what a PITA this was and so far it's not been done. I dropped it twice into the bilge and had to retrieve it. With one hand it's has to be nigh impossible to seat it all the way around. With ONLY one hand I can get maybe 80% seated but trying to coax the remaining 20% simply caused a portion of the 80% to pop back out repeatedly, repeatedly and repeatedly ... I stopped working on this effort at this time as it was time to head over to my son's place for dinner. I was truly tired and quite sick about not being able to make better progress with this task. Maybe an overnight sleep will make tomorrow better.

I am not looking forward to engaging the hidden 4th bolt and screwing it in based on the trouble I had in removing it. 🙁 :twisted:

I also have to figure out how to seat the O-ring correctly using just one hand.

Oh... I almost forgot to say that just as I started to pull off the impeller pulley I noted a fair amount of water started to pour out of the impeller housing and this alarmed me and I quickly recalled not closing off the through hull valve. I stopped the impeller pulley removal and leaped out into the cockpit and closed the through hull valve. I'm not sure if this was necessary but I sure did not want gallons of water flowing out into the bilge.

I saw no reason for using the paper gasket that came with the new impeller packaging. Its holes did not line up with anything I could see... plus there was no old gasket seen when I removed the impeller pulley either... just the O-ring was seen.

N.B. Without a strong flash light and without the cockpit engine cover lifted it would be impossible to see what I was doing.

This task on the R-25 is not for the faint of heart IMO.

Removing the two engine beauty covers is not required for this task.

I wish the hex head bolts had a deeper 6mm hole to really allow the bit to sit in more firmly. This would help for knowing I had the bit fully engaged for the 4th hidden bolt before levering the wrench handle. I had it engaged partially a couple of times and it simply spun off when I started to apply some torque. This aspect made for me taking some 2 hours getting that 4th bolt out.

 

[knotflying]

Well, that definitely sounds like hell. Sounds like you need an R-27 and you won't have to experience it ever again.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Barry:

I hope Sunday morning finds you in good spirits. The good news here is that if you hire someone to do the job next time you'll be able to coach them along. As far as that 4th bolt is concerned is it not accessable because of lack of access or can or could the impeller pulley of been turned a bit for better access?

I'd suggest giving the vaseline a try on the O ring reinstall, I've used it this way for 20 years and have never experienced a problem and personally think it helps hold it in place so you can get the remaining 20% inserted into the groove. One last thing, well maybe two.....rinse the salt water off the front of your engine when finished to keep corrosion down and don't forget to reopen the thru hull, I've done this before!

 

[berniefiedler]

So, from what I'm reading, running your Ranger in petroleum polluted water could shorten the impeller's service life?

 

[baz]

Mike: During my work on the boat yesterday I was thinking of both you (off and on) and Jim and envying the fact that you both had R-27s. If this DIY job meant it had to done every few months the cost for doing it on the R-25 would not only drive me crazy but would make me empty my Piggy Bank and call Jeff or Andrew... :lol: You are both lucky/smart for having bought the R-27 with this impeller replacement task in mind.

Jim: The suggestion for rotating the pulley once the 3 visible bolts had been removed is EXCELLENT. How come my gray cells didn't wake up to this idea yesterday. Mike's instructions never mentioned this and I was too focused on those details maybe... it's called 'constipation'.... 😉 :lol: I will try this when I return to complete the task and hope it resolves the 'hidden bolt head' dilemma for me. I DEFINITELY will be taking a jar of Vaseline with me to the boat to fix that darn O-ring.
I will certainly wash off the salt water and open that thru hull valve for sure. Thanks for the suggestion and reminder.

I have no choice but to finish this task if I want our R-25 to be operational. I should have monitored the weather as today is a beautiful day to take the family out and daughter in law last night was truly upset with me for not having the boat ready (she was just giving me a hard time I suspect) but also aghast at the state of my arms... see photos below.

On my way over to my son's place yesterday I picked up 2 bottle of good wine and 4 small tubs of Starbucks ice cream and 2 small folding chair for the grand kids. Son and I consumed one whole bottle in short time over some BBQed chicken and corn cobs. Daughter in law who's very strict with her diet devoured some of the ice cream as she couldn't resist.

So, I've had a good nights sleep now and will not likely go down to the boat today as I've other things to do that I know will not test my patience. :lol:

Here are a few photos I took along the way... Note--the last two are of my left and right arms. The left (the first photo) is the arm that had to be routed through the floor port hole/hatch and stretched over the aft end of the fuel tank and down to the pulley area. The left arm did most of the work and the photo is evidence for this. :roll: The redness and bruises are a lot worse to look at in reality.

This is the view of things looking down through the opened cabin step with riser removed and was my main line of sight for directing my left hand down through the floor's port hole/hatch.

This is the impeller pulley once removed.

Here's the view looking through the floor's port hole/hatch with the impeller pulley removed.

One end of the impeller I extracted and is in excellent condition.

The other end of the impeller which also is in excellent shape/condition.

Left arm.

Right arm.

Two grand kids delighted with their personal chairs... 😀

 

[baz]

Jim: Your suggestion for rotating the impeller pulley will not work as even though it can be rotated it's shaft within the impeller's bronze bearing stops it from angling to gain sight of and access to the hidden bolt head. All I can do is rotate the pulley to change where the pulley's arms are. ...but maybe I'm misunderstanding your suggestion, and if so could you give me a call at 206-310-2671. Thanks. 🙂

 

[sidecarist]

Barry,
I sympathize with the effort it takes to contort yourself into such a position. Looking at your photos it may be possible to install the o-ring onto your pulley/pump-cover assembly first. It looks to me like the o-ring should be a snug fit around the raised boss on the cover. If this is so still use a dab of Vaseline to prevent it from getting dislodged. Only try this if you are sure that is how it fits, and it's a snug fit around the boss. a slight kink in an o-ring will cause a leak.

Using a stud in one hole of the pump housing may also help you line things up for reassembly (a small round shafted screwdriver may also be used in some cases). You may or may not choose to leave it there and use a nut. It's hard to look at the photos and tell how difficult it is to work in this type of situation.

Best of Luck

Bob

 

[baz]

Jim: Thanks for calling and telling me I had within 6 weeks to fix/re-install things to be ready in time for the Desolation Sound cruise in July... :lol: Seriously though... thanks. 🙂

Bob: Yes, that's a good alternative for seating the O-ring. I actually tried that yesterday with having the same exact thought, but wasn't convinced that method would seat the O-ring in its slot/groove properly.... and as you said, if not seated properly and there being just one kink/crease in the O-ring an annoying leak would result and lead to having to remove and reinstall the impeller pulley and housing cover. However, I will try again using this method... thanks. 🙂

Yep, I have planned to use a drift pin or small diameter screw driver's shank to line up the impeller pulley's housing holes up with the outer surface of the impeller body. Yesterday with the O-ring placed around the raised boss I did this but found the two joining surfaces were about 1/16" apart and placing one hex head bolt in would not engage the threads. It could be that the impeller needs to be pushed into the housing a tad more... so will ensure that's not a problem and try things again.

I may just have to rig up a mirror system in the bilge to assist me seeing where that darn 4th hidden bolt hole is... I'm not looking forward to doing that part of the reassemble as it was such a bugger removing that bolt. I think a better design for the 4 bolts would have been to have 4 protruding threaded studs making it a sure fit alignment when replacing the impeller pulley with its housing and then use decent locking nuts to finish securing the impeller pulley assembly to the pumps facing.

I'm going to refrain going to the boat today as son-in-law wants help replacing a sink garbage disposal unit and hasn't done that job before. At least I know that will be successful and much less pain than the impeller pulley reinstall. 😉 ... plus I need to wait a bit for my left arm's bruise swelling to subside otherwise it will be difficult to squeeze it through the opening in the floor's port hole/hatch and stretched/push my hand down to the impeller pulley area.

It's so annoying to know the impeller costs but $35 and hiring a qualified Yanmar mechanic to do this job would likely cost $350 (including tax)... a factor of 10x.

Using just one arm & hand for this job is quite likely the hardest part of this job on the R-25. Andrew's words to me a week or so back saying "On the R-25 it's more challenging changing the impeller..." is really an understatement. :roll:

BTW... the 4 retaining hex head bolts are not SS as they are attracted by a magnet. I will ensure they are washed with fresh water before using them for reassembly. I may even apply some Corrosion STOP on them ahead of time as well.

 

[baz]

In retrospect, I'm thinking that applying glycerin to the O-ring is simply asking for trouble using just one hand as it makes the O-ring just too slippery to handle and does not provide enough gripping strength to hold it in place as my fingers try to gently insert the ring into its groove. Also, if the groove were to be a little smaller than the diameter of the O-ring material that would also help as it could be pressed into the groove and held a bit tighter.

One other design I'd like to see here is for the pulley to be removable from the impeller front housing that bolts to the pump. In this way the pulley can be removed and expose the 4 bolts for much easier access. I know this will not happen... just a thought in my case. 😉

 

[baz]

Hmmm... had a full day today fixing things, and not just boat stuff.

First was to help sister-in-law in Cambridge/UK to get her old iMac back to good health. Using her iPad and ours and FaceTime to view things on her dead iMac. After erasing the iMac's internal disk which seemed to be cause of trouble with many errors reported by Disk Utility and then proceeded installing OS from original iMac's OS DVDs... and then upgraded to Snow Leopard and then launched Migration Assistant to restore every thing from her Time Machine backups. Hours and hours and left her watching it.

With that done it was back to boat stuff... 😉

So today I felt compelled to use vaseline on the O-ring. After one or two tries this did the trick and held the O-ring in place long enough for me to slip the impeller housing and pulley assembly into the impeller and snug it up ready for bolting. To do this I had to have the impeller housing and pulley assembly in the bilge and ready for me to grab quickly after getting the O-ring seated and slide its shaft into the impeller and snugged up.

I inspected the impeller housing and pulley assembly before doing anything and found that so long as the spokes were lined up for one bolt hole they were also lined up for all 4 bolts. This was a useful/helpful find IMO.

So I was able to screw in the 3 bolts that were clearly visible to me in far less time than it took removing them last week. 🙂 Securing the forth hidden bolt was going to be the tricky hideous one for sure.

I had chatted with Jim Favors (R27 Kismet) on the phone yesterday and he had suggested using a mirror for locating and seeing the 4th hidden bolt. When talking about this I didn't see that would help much as getting a mirror into the right position would be difficult as I can only use one hand and that was needed to hold the socket/wrench, but to my delight today haven stolen my wife's 6" round makeup mirror with a 5x magnification on one side and using it by carefully lowering it into the bilge where it laid precariously under the impeller pulley I found I could actually see the bolt hole... Whoooopeeeee. Of course, using a mirror means you have to work backwards with movements. After a few trial and error movements I figured things out and presto, I managed to get the 4th bolt inserted. The rest was easy and had it tightened up in a jiffy. I guess I should have taken a photo of the mirror setup but had I done you would have seen my contorted face and swollen arms. :lol:

OK, next was to reinstall the pulley belt.... and I needed a 22mm socket with 3/8" drive. I was sure I had this, but no... all I could find in my tool chest was a 24mm socket. Boo hiss... so off the Sears auto center I went and purchased a 3" long 22mm socket, and decided to call it a day as I had to whizz back home to make dinner for dogs and 1st Mate... plus I was starving as well.

I did drop my Rigid rechargeable battery LED flashlight along the way into the bilge and it must have soaked up some water there as it started to alternate flashing and then quit on me. Thought maybe it was the battery so replaced it with one fully charged, but no-go. It was dead in the water... :lol:

Also dropped my 6mm socket and drive several times and had to fish that out of the bilge using my 4' long flex grabber tool.

I managed not to break or get my wife's makeup mirror dirty in any way... so I will not be sent to the dog house tonight. :roll: 😉

Tomorrow I will do the 'turn the engine' trick using my new 22mm socket to walk the impeller pulley belt back onto the engine's main pulley... run some fresh water over the impeller housing area to wash away any intrusion of salt water lingering around and that should be it thank goodness.

After installing the pulley belt I will just have to open the thru hull valve, check for leaks at the impeller housing and run the engine some.

... clean thing up and drink my 6-pack. 😀 😀 😀 😀 :roll:

 

[baz]

I discussed the whole procedure for replacing the water impeller today with my Gallery Marine certified Yanmar service technician here in Seattle. He was very sympathetic about the difficulty in doing this replacement on the Ranger Tug R-25.

I mentioned the 'hidden bolt' and the difficulty of seating the O-ring, and again he recognized the difficulty for both of these two things. He indicated that he does use Vaseline for holding the O-ring in place as the Glycerin simply will not have enough holding strength compared to Vaseline. We agreed on this. :roll: He also said that he and others will remove the WHOLE impeller pump assembly from the engine and assemble things remotely sitting on the cabin floor making it much easier for reinstalling as a whole unit. I wonder if anyone else here has thought of doing the impeller replacement using this method.

We discussed replacing the impeller pumps pulley belt... and as we all know it has to be 'walked' onto the engine's main crank pulley using the 22mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet lever in a clockwise direction. The technician said this method was insane but that is the way they told him it has to be done at his Yanmar engine classroom attendance.

Well, it's now time for me to go to the boat and do this last thing of 'walking' the pulley back on.

 

[baz]

Project completed. 😀

The last part was to walk the impeller's pulley belt back on. This took a bit longer than I expected as the first two attempts ended with the belt riding up onto the impeller pulley's edge just a tad, and once this happens the belt had to be removed and the whole 'walking' operation repeated. Jim Favor warned/alerted me about this happening to him and his advice was good as I may not have noticed it otherwise. I stopped before my third attempt and gave this 'belt walking' some thought as having the belt ride up onto the impeller's pulley lip had happen twice and using the same technique gave me no assurance it wouldn't happen again.

You must remember, I'm doing this work single handed, and even if I did have a 2nd person with me it would not help as only one pair of arms/hands can get to the pulley's belt to walk it on.

The reason the belt persisted in riding up onto the impeller pulley's rear lip was that as I walked the belt onto the engine's crank pulley the belt going onto the impeller's pulley would bend sideways slightly away from aligning itself onto the bottom of the impeller's pulley grooves precisely. My left hand could not reach down that far to coax the belt correctly onto the pulley's grooves and my right hand which also couldn't reach that area any rate was needed to crank the engine over clockwise.

I needed an artificial arm that was long enough... Ah-ha I thought... the 3' or so long 1.75" coat hanger rod I use for stopping items from sliding off my cave lid to the hinge area and disappearing out of sight might be my answer. It was as my photos below show. With my left hand I held the wooden rod and used it to coax the belt onto the lower section of the impeller pulley's grooves as I cranked the engine over clockwise with my right arm/hand. My first attempt succeeded. 😀 ... and I checked the belt's alignment thoroughly by cranking the engine to make the impeller's pulley make a full 360º turn. It looked good... sigh and much relief. 🙂

Ok... now to check for leaks and none found. Washed the impeller's housing down with fresh water and mopped that up to be dry from the bilge with a dry towel.

I ran both bilge pumps manually to make sure they were functioning and they were.

I opened the thru valve and checked again for leaks. None found after some 5-10 mins of waiting. 🙂 Relief.

Tidied up all my tools and got the cabin ship-shape as if no one had been working on their belly for hours etc. :lol:

Was tempted to start in on my 6-pack, but resisted.

The big test was now to be done... started the engine, took a peek through the cabin step to make sure the belt had not spun off in some weird way (and it hadn't), jumped out into the cockpit, stepped over the open engine compartment carefully and leaned over to port side to check water splashing out the exhaust (and it was). I was at this point convinced that more water was splashing out from the exhaust port than what I used to observe prior to replacing my water impeller. Maybe it was my imagination... dunno for sure. No matter, splashing water was good to see.

Turned off engine and checked for leaks again... and none found... bilge below the water pump was nice and dry.

One thing that caught my attention while the engine was running and checking for leaks was that by shining a flash light at the impeller's pulley rotating it was possible to view the three bolts that could be easily removed. No such luck for the 4th hidden bolt head though. See photo below showing two bolts clearly as the pulley was rotating with engine idling.

That's it... all done... and if anyone has further suggestion on how to make this an easier task on the R-25 I'm all ears.

Having gone through this impeller replacement I'm very hesitant about doing it again, but time has a funny way of healing 'old wounds', so who knows... as next time should be easier. I just need to slim my arms down and extend them another 6 inches and the job should be a snap.

Now to my 6-pack. 😀 :roll:

Photos below

Wooden coat hanger rod used to coax the belt onto the lower portion of the impeller's pulley precisely

Close up showing how the wooden rod was used/manipulated with my left hand as I 'walked' the belt on.

Photo shows the upper two bolts clearly while the impeller's pulley was rotating.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Nice job Barry , glad to read that all is well on Laxey. I expect that you'll be giving a hands on tutorial, at the Ranger Tug Rendezvous, this September in Anacortes on an impeller change out for the R25. Now it's time to relax and enjoy the fruits of your labor.