How often do you check your hose clamps?

C

captstu

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2014
Messages
862
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Vessel Name
Shearwater IV (SOLD)
One of my R 25 bilge pumps started cycling about 50% of the time after a short ride today. I opened the engine compartment to find that one of the hose clamps on my PSS shaft seal a cracked and broken.

Water was leaking in an uncomfortable but not frightening rate.

I didn't have a spare hose clamp of the right size so I removed one of three clamps on each exhaust pipe. The first clamp I removed was also broken and could not be used to seal the leak.

The second clamp I removed was in serviceable condition and I reinstalled it on the shaft seal.

I check the remaining 10 or so hose clamps on the exhaust system and found one more broken one. The hose clamps on the boat where the cheap kind that has the threads cut into the stainless steel.

Tomorrow I plan to replace all 12 hose clamps with a better kind that have the threads forged into the stainless steel. I'll keep the cheap ones on board as spares.

Do you check your hose clamps regularly? If so how?

I've never had a hose clamp fell before so I surprised to see so many of my rope.

Stuart Bell
Ranger 25 - Shearwater
 
Sorry to read about this...

Secondly, thank goodness for the bilge pump saving the day and that it was also operational.

I know the clamps are SS, but were they rusted to any degree ?

Was the PSS shaft seal hose clamp clearly showing it was cracked/split and maybe hanging loose ?

You said after a short ride you noticed this.... does that mean you had returned to your Dock and shutdown the engine and then heard the bilge pump operating ? I ask, as hearing the bilge pump running while the engine is running must be nigh impossible.

Checking the hose clamps is obviously a periodic maintenance task and can be done quickly I suppose for those that are in line of sight.

However, there are many hidden hoses within the boat with double clamps so inspecting them isn't possible. The saving grace is of course, is that if the hidden hose clamps do fail and leakage starts then it's imperative that the bilge pumps be operational. This leads to ensuring the bilge pumps are always operational and that's where the manual bilge pump operation becomes a necessary thing to do before leaving the dock. The bilge pumps can be operated manually by flipping the bilge pump breaker to the ON position. When this is done a very high pitch noise will be heard. In addition, what I do is to periodically place enough water into the bilge to douse the bilge pumps and then manually active them via their breaker switch to ensure they do in fact pump out the water. 😱 😉

Thanks for your posting as this is a reminder for me to ensure I have a collection of good hose clamps to cover myself for the type of event you've posted about. Thank you. 🙂
 
The shaft seal hose clamp cracked on the very bottom. The top was still clean and shiny.

The only way to inspect the clamp is the take off look at it since I can't see it under the exhaust hoses.

PSS says there should be two of those glass on their shift seal. I had only one on the shaft seal when it broke. I honestly don't know if they were to originally but I see no signs of a second client nor do I see any place to put it.


Stuart Bell
Ranger 25: Shearwater
(561) 352-1796
 
I'm not sure of the age of your R25; since you have experienced corrosion on the hose clamps, you might want to check the bolts that hold the exhaust fitting to the hull. My bolts were corroded (one missing) to the point that I'm amazed that it didn't come off while underway. I replaced the exhaust hose too. I also had to replace all the bolts that hold the swim platform. As these boats age, we have to step up the inspection procedures to maintain a safe boat.
 
Rick & Sue

Thank you, I never thought of the swim platform I'll check in soon.
 
The swim platform and exhaust clamps look fine nearly completely rust free. I think the hose clamp that rusted was sitting in water when the boat was on the Drystack.

The hose clamp broke wasn't rusted it was just a cheapo clamp.

On my way to West Marine to buy some of the good ones. Two hose clamps on every underwater fitting is a good idea, but quality hose clamps are an even better idea.

Two quality hose clamps will probably stop the problem from ever happening again.
 
I check my clamps every spring. Between condensation and stress they do fail and it usually occurs on the bottom side of the hose. I make sure I double-clamp everywhere, buy the best clamps possible, and always have spares.
 
Doug, have you had failures with the solid clamps with pressed threads or only the less expensive cut thread clamps?


Stuart Bell
Ranger 25: Shearwater
(561) 352-1796
 
This is a good tutorial on hose clamps, double clamping, and using high quality non-perforated clamps.

dave
 
Can someone remind me (away from boat) what size hose clamps go on the rubber piece on the prop shaft after the packing gland?
 
Captsu, what year is your boat? G
 
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