How to get antifreeze into generator?

S. Todd

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2015
Messages
756
Fluid Motion Model
R-29 S
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2916J021
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Innova & Paddle North kayaks
Vessel Name
Audrey Rose
MMSI Number
368196550
This is the first season for me to winterize our R29S LE. How does one draw the pink antifreeze through the Next Gen generator to winterize it? The bowl for the fresh water strainer on our boat for the generator water pickup hangs from the bracket so their is no obvious way to get the water into the line. It appears that installing a T-fitting on that line may be the only solution, but, if so, the factory should have done the installation. Am I missing something? How do others do this?
If a T-fitting is the answer has anyone put together their "best solution" for installing (picture) and using one? Thanks for any suggestions. (Too bad the boat cannot be ordered with air conditioning for dockside power but without the generator because the generator is the least used item on our boat.)
 
Hi Todd. On the R29S we had, that has the NexGen generator, I closed the thru hull valve, took the cap off and poured RV antifreeze into the sea strainer as the gender was started. For me it’s a 2 person job….one to pour and the other to start the genset, be the eyes to witness the pink coming out the exhaust and turning the engine back off. Yours may be set up differently but that’s how I did it.

Jim F
 
Hi S. Todd,

Jim pretty much nailed it, as that's the easiest way to do it and it doesn't require any modifications. You should be able to do the same with your strainer. Just be sure to close the seacock and make sure you have enough fluid for proper flow and shut down the unit as soon as you see pink coming out of the exhaust. Should only take a few seconds and not long enough to create problems with the generator or set off any alarms. Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ralf
 
Ralf, I would love to be able to just unscrew the lid on the strainer and poor antifreeze into the strainer. I suspect what was installed on our build this time last year is different from what was installed on the Favors' older R29S. Unfortunately, either I am much more visually challenged than I thought or have a strainer without a lid. I have attached a picture of the strainer to my photo album. If you can tell me with more detail how to "take the cap off" the generator strainer on our boat I would appreciate it.
 


Here is the picture of our NexGen strainer.
 
Yep that’s completely different then what we had, ours was a smaller version of the engine seastrainer. In looking at your photo I’m thinking you’d need to take the hose off on the side that leads to the generator. Once off use that hose to pour antifreeze into with the generator running to winterize. Or as you mentioned add an adaptor so you don’t have to take the hose off every year. Good luck Todd.

Jim F
 
If you are winterizing on a trailer. I made a thru hull pick up that attaches to the pick up on the bottom of the boat. I used this for on the trailer flushing of the engine. I have a small cheap plastic blue swimming pool that I slide under the trailer with an electric pump. Pour anti freeze into the pool and place a 5 gallon pail to catch the antifreeze out of the exhaust. Turn the pump on and the over flow spills back into the pool until I start the engine. Once the engine int started I watch for the antifreeze to come out the exhaust. Shut the engine off and I'm done. What ever antifreeze is left in the pool I pump back into the jugs and use it for next year. I have winterized many boats with this system over the years.
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I use this to flush with fresh water from the hose. Many call it a Trailer lake. I also had A flush valve installed to the strainer for in the water flushing. You could easily install a bronze pipe tee with a ball valve with a Garden hose fittings on the ball valve. Keep a cap on it when not using it. Ball valve closed plus a cap. This would be a flush attachment and a winterize attachment.

The trailer lake is the easiest.
 
The good news is RT management has been presented with a simple solution to your issue, which is also one of mine since I too have a factory generator in my RT. In the meantime you can install a simple part that is available at most auto parts stores and online stores. It is a heater-core back flush tool. What is it? A simple T fitting that can be installed in your water feed lines. 3/4 or 1/2 inch barbed fittings on two ends with the 3rd T fitting using a garden hose connection. Good for two things. You can just simply drain the water out if your choose or close the seacock inlet valve, purchase some clear 3/4 inch ID hose from your local hardware store. The longer the hose the less need for two people.

Fit one end of the hose with a garden hose repair fitting that fits the flush tool T. Now take the cap off of your $10 a gallon (not alcohol based that can damage rubber seals) Drill that cap and place another 3/4 inch barbed fitting in the cap so the new hose can be attached to the top of the cap. Many options available at your hardware store too. I think you are following me now. Screw your gallon of antifreeze on the hose and turn it upside down. Now crack open the fitting on the flush tool T and poke a little breather hole in the bottom of the jug towards the outside edge, watch until the antifreeze reaches the T by watching through the your new clear hose. When there, tighten hose fitting. With a long hose you can start your Gen and then walk to the side of the boat and watch the Gen water outlet for antifreeze coming out. Feel the weight of the antifreeze jug and when it feels like it is getting low, shut off Gen and install a new jug to your tool and restart Gen. Save that used jug to poor the other leftover antifreeze into from other bottles if that much is needed (just put new cap on used jug and set on it's side with vent hole up so it doesn't spill). When Done feeding with antifreeze, turn off Gen, turn jug upright, unscrew lid, put finger over hole to hose to stop siphon and then quickly remove other end of hose and replace cap on flush tool T. Done, very little spill into bilge where bilge pumps have rubber seals. Just know that the water line below the spot you install the new T will only be protected by mixing with the antifreeze in your line above the T. Seacock inlet valve and above to water line will likely be protected enough as long as the water your boat is floating in is not frozen.

I see where you live and the temps look very close to where I live. Tuesday we had a low of 34 degrees, but now is warming up again and many good days to boat still coming. If you choose to to go out and want to use your generator again, guess what? Yep, do it all over again... I plan to put several in my boat, already has one inline to the A/C, and few more shut-off valves so I can isolate Gen, A/C reverse heat, fresh water wash-down and the head. I can still boat without those items being operational and even fresh water if I carry a few gallons of antifreeze to help flush the toilet and protect waste tank. I want to be able to use the generator because that gives me many options for power, heat and battery charger if needed.

The more you can use you big investment throughout the year the more enjoyment you will experience. The good and bad news is, if your boat gets used only 8 months out of the year it might last say 10 years, but if you use it 25 % more each year it might only last 7-8 years. These boats are built to use and enjoy.

JFYI, my boat is an OB model so no inoard engine to worry about isolating or protecting.
 
S. Todd":2mlgss4z said:


Here is the picture of our NexGen strainer.

After further consideration, could the most simple fix for you be if you want to use the poor-it-in method with two people, could it be turned over with the removable bowl Up? is there room above?

I do like the logic of the trailer lake and limiting the waste of antifreeze (multi use is good).
 
Found a better shut-off valve at Lowes for under $15 with a built in drain port and cap. Brass too. I sure wish these were installed in my RT23 at the two water intake seacocks. Then I could close the valve, remove the drain cap to drain water out. I might need to get a water test plug with Schrader valve to put against the Gen water outlet and A/C outlet to use my little 12v air compressor with built in gauge pump in a to pump in few pounds of pressure to help push the water out of the built in drain at the very bottom of systems.

Instead I will install near hose Ts to isolate each option and be able to drain easily.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE ... lsrc=aw.ds

So much cool stuff available now. If we keep building things the way we did 5 years ago without upgrades are we really going backwards? John has an 8 track in his boat, Tom has a cassette deck, Mike a CD player, Drews came with a radio delete plate and Kenneth has the RT radio with so many options like bluetooth and remote control. I want to be like Ken, how about you?
 
Ranger Tug As the Prop Turns on Winterizing says to turn the strainer upside down and pour in antifreeze. Great idea, but it does not work because the hoses prevent the strainer from being turned more than 5 degrees above horizontal. "Trailer Lake" idea does not work due to the location of the bunks on my trailer in relation to the through hull. Adding a T fitting just forward of the strainer was relatively simple. A small plastic funnel allowed simple pouring of the antifreeze into the new line into the T fitting. Next Gen Kubota diesel exhaust expels pure antifreeze after about 3/4ths of a gallon, if not sooner. Mission accomplished.
 
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