How to repair this?

[tatoweb]

These wood support panels under my 2016 C28 batteries are completely rotten on both port and starboard sides. How can Cutwater make such a bad design?. Does anyone have had the same issue?. What should be done?. Attached starboard side pic.

Sorry, english is not my first language.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Newf]

Looks nasty. Surprised that it rotted in such a short time. Looks more like it's all cracked up from being too thin.

From your photo it looks like it's just a panel that's been screwed down so should be easy to remove. I would remove it and install a panel made from Starboard HDPE. It doesn't look that wide so 3/8" or 1/2" thickness should be sufficient. Starboard is fairly expensive but it will never rot.

 

[Aadudley]

I have a small area just like that on the starboard side of our 25sc. This year I plan to fix it but unfortunately it requires removing the hot water heater. Since ours is just starting (about the size of a quarter and wood is dry) I will most likely remove the hot water heater, fiberglass over it, and paint it the same color.

 

[BB marine]

These wood support panels under my 2016 C28 batteries are completely rotten on both port and starboard sides. How can Cutwater make such a bad design?. Does anyone have had the same issue?. What should be done?

I'm sure you are not the only Cutwater owner or Ranger owner to experience this issue. This is not sealed plywood laid in the bilge for storage and mounting. The bottom side and edges are not sealed the top side has a layer of gelcoat over it. Before replacing the wood the first project is repairing the items that caused the water damage. (1) The deck drain design is below average. If the drains hoses are not pitched properly, clogged, or leaking you will get cockpit water in the compartments. The full inspection of the drains should be done. (2) I found my C26 Cutwater deck hatch latches were installed with no sealant. Water was leaking into the compartments through the latches. When I removed the latch assembly the wood used in the construction of the hatch had some wood rot (2016 model boat found this in 2018 and I have a full enclosure). Removal of all latches and sealing them should be done. (3)Inspect the Limber Hole Drains are they clear? The compartments have drain tubes that allow the water to drain to the bilge where pumps are located. If they become plugged or were plugged during the build the water will sit under the floor eventually the wood will rot. (4) deck hatch seals need to be replaced with thicker material. The factory installed seal is too thin. It compresses after use and the hatches do not seal properly. If the water builds up in the drain trough after a heavy rain it will over flow into the compartment. (5) improve ventilation in the compartment. The isn't a true ventilation system installed in Cutwaters or Rangers (air flow in air flow out) The ventilation system is reliant on air gaps in the cockpit. On my C26 there is an adequate gap between the cockpit liner and the hull for air but it is obstructed by wire looms and hoses reducing air flow to a minimum. I have added additional vents for the storage compartments and engine compartments for proper air flow.

After you have made the inspections and repairs to the culprits or causes of the water damage it is time to repair the rotten wood. Cosmetically repairing it will be a waste of time. Rotten wood just gets worse and spreads. It needs to be removed and replaced. The removal of all the equipment in the compartments is first. Now find out how far the damage goes. Use an awl to poke at the wood. If you find solid wood mark that and begins removing the rotten. After all the rotten wood is removed. The decision of replacement. Starboard or plywood. Starboard would be good if you are replacing all of the wood. If you are replacing a bad section, fully sealed plywood will work and last (I recommend west system epoxy). After the job is completed contact Ranger parts for the matching gel-coat to coat the top of the wood with a match to the existing wood. If starboard replacement leave white.

It is a lot of work. It is unfortunate that fluid motion uses this building procedure. The use of wood below the water line went away in the nineties. For this very reason!
There are so many new light weight composite materials now available and used in the marine industry that last for ever and 100% resistant to water damage. I have to ask why does a manufacture still use unsealed plywood in these area's? $$$$$$

 

[yorangerjim]

what I do with my R27 I have a heater inside the boat set on low and I just put a circulation fan in my what do you call it the main lid where the gas tank and other stuff and its not a heater but it circulates the air down there and the back port and starboard compartments I am concerned about mold and I think with the movement of air will help this. :!: :?:

Jim

 

[Salty7]

I agree with all the suggestions above. Brian I completely agree with you, putting unsealed plywood in these locations is really surprising, plywood like this is exactly what gave Bayliner a bad quality reputation. There are so many other choices, even taking a little time to soak these plywood pieces in penetrating epoxy before installation would be an improvement. I have drains in the back of my lockers of my 25SC, they have stainless grilles screwed right over unsealed plywood cutouts, perfect to drench the end grain of plywood, this is unacceptable by any standard.

 

[Andrew Custis]

Thank you for the replies and posting the photos. Yes, we use a marine grade plywood in lockers with resin on top. It is important to keep these lockers as dry as you are able. Making sure the scupper drains are clear, making sure the hatch gaskets are maintained and making sure sealants are kept in place will make this area last a long time before replacement. There are options out there for sure and as you see our boats evolve, you will start to see many that are not using any wood in these compartments. We deliver many boats a year here in the NW in the rainiest environment around with very few issues around this if they are monitored and maintained. Ensuring the limber drains are kept clear so water that does get in and not sitting on the underside is also very important.

We appreciate the feedback and will continue to improve our process and development.

 

[Andrew Custis]

To answer the original question, if it was me, the repair would be pretty easy. I would cut a seam right at the batteries. Unscrew the other broken board and replace it with the material of your choice.

Thank you,

 

[jkhiser]

Mine happened as a result of clogged limber holes: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10857

As Andrew says, fairly easy repair. Cut out all the bad wood, with an athwart ships cut. A dremel multimax or similar small vibrating saw is ideal. Replace with 3/4 marine plywood, sealed on all six sides with epoxy. I did not find a suitable synthetic marine lumber - which might also be an option. Cut the piece a few inches short (fore and aft), so there is room to inspect the limber hole. Seal prior holes in the stringers before mounting. Seal new holes for mounting to the stringers and the battery boxes with 5200.

I have not painted yet - prolly complete this spring. And prolly should have cut back further. May use some epoxy to smooth the old wood before I paint.

I also cut an inspection port on my good side so I could inspect the limber hole. Water should drain out from under these through the limber holes, but they do need to be checked.

Project pics at: gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67160