How to secure anchor rode

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dennis41

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Apr 21, 2019
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43
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Outboard)
Hull Identification Number
FMLC3047C616
I'm new to my Cutwater30CB after 50 yrs owning sailboats. We prefer anchoring to marinas and my concern is how to secure/tie off the anchor line post-anchor deployment. There is a 6" cleat fastened with 5/16" studs mounted sideways in the anchor rode alley. This cleat is totally inadequate for the line diameter and load potential of 35kt winds. What is the answer? -use that cleat as a fairlead to one of the 10" cleats on the "front porch"? I would appreciate the designers rationale for this setup.
 
On my 21ec I Installed a mooring bit and a backing plate. It will now hold several lines and hold secure in any weather. The mooring bit, or some call a Samson post, was made by a local fabricator but I notice many for sale on line. It was easier for me to install because when I ordered the boat I had the factory not install any anchor cleat or anchor roller. Also deleted the chain pipe and anchor drain. I keep my rode in a bag secured on the deck. I did not want any holes in the boat, and use the anchor locker as dry storage. I wanted to build my own to handle a larger anchor and have a very bulletproof solution for anchoring out. We anchor out on average 65 times a summer. Perhaps you can find a mooring bit with a base plate to cover the existing holes. I used Klacko marine to make my mooring bit and new bow roller.
 
Would you consider use of a bridal? I find it very effective on both chain and line. The bridal fastens to the two bow cleats.
 
I tie a rolling hitch to the anchor rode with a stout line and lead this line directly to one of the main bow cleats (not through the bow roller. If I was staying overnight I tie two lines and create a bridal to both main cleats. The cleat in line with the windlass is just for security the anchor when stowed.
 
One more vote for using a bridle secured to the two forward cleats.
 
Cutwater28GG":3agbo28j said:
The cleat in line with the windlass is just for security the anchor when stowed.

Wonder if someone from the factory could actually verify the purpose of this cleat. I've been using it to tie off the anchor line for three years and over 80 nights at anchor.

The cleat seems robust enough for the job and is anchored in what appears to be the same material as the windlass.

Gary
 
I, like Gary, have used the center bow cleat for almost 6 years to tie off when we anchored on our R27 and for almost 2 years on our R29 and have never experienced any problem on either boat. I’ve used a bridle on boats when I’ve had more chain length but never thought to try with rope rode, might need to experiment. Anyone else?

Jim F
 
Not to sound facetious, I think the first precaution would be not to anchor in 35 MPH winds. Granted, Mother Nature can always throw something at you, but I have always been able to find refuge. My worst experience was recent. We were pounded. Forecast was light and variable so we anchored in a beautiful spot on the outside of the gulf. The winds kicked up from the Northwest at about 25 MPH, two foot waves, maybe higher at close intervals. Not a pleasant night. No issues with our 35 pound Manson Supreme and the forward cleat. Next time I'll opt for the mosquitoes and find a place inside, regardless of favorable reports!
 
Same here. I have used the Forward center cleat to tie off for 5 years and never had a concern.

Curt
 
Our R25 has a small cleat forward of the windlass and a much larger one aft of the windlass. I tie off to the larger one, running the rode overtop of the windlass with a chaff protector. I use the small cleat to secure the anchor while under way or towing. RT seems to have set all their boats up this way for many years, and I've never figured out their logic in not putting the biggest cleat out in front.
 
Hi there,
I have a C30 and have been Leary of the small front cleat in fear of tearing it off. Would be great to hear from the factory on how much pressure that small cleat can handle.
I have tied off by running under the small seat and tying to the big forward cleats, which seems wrong, but that other cleat seems so small....
 
YukonRon":6fr27hoj said:
Our R25 has a small cleat forward of the windlass and a much larger one aft of the windlass. I tie off to the larger one, running the rode overtop of the windlass with a chaff protector. I use the small cleat to secure the anchor while under way or towing. RT seems to have set all their boats up this way for many years, and I've never figured out their logic in not putting the biggest cleat out in front.


I have the same experience on the R25SC. That larger cleat is beefy enough. I suspect this Cutwater set up is different. Could anyone post a picture of what we are discussing please?
 
Thanks guys for all the suggestions and comments. I think for now I will just use the small cleat as a fairlead to the 10" cleats on the "front porch" under normal conditions. (I hope they're bolted to something solid) Under more intense conditions I will use a bridle and rout the lines over the gunnel and around the aft side of the forward stanchions up to the cleats on the "front porch". This kind of mistreats the gunnel, but using some sort of anti-chafe gear should minimize the wear on both the line and the gunnel.
It's interesting that there has been no advice/commentary from the factory/designers on this subject to date.
 
Doing a repost in the hope the factory will give us some advice....
 
On my C28 I also use a bridle. I made it long enough to tie each end off on the midship cleats on both sides. Each bridle rode is run through the first and second stanchions. The extra length gives the bridle more shock absorption in a chop. It also dampens sailing at anchor.
 
I tie a rolling hitch to the anchor rode run the line through the chock onto one of the cleats.
The cleat in front of the windlass is only stout enough in my opinion to tie the anchor to when stowed

see photo

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ignore the second black line (just tied to the rail for storage)

If I want to have the boat lie more bow inline with the anchor I could tie two rolling hitches with two lines one to each cleat through both chocks.
to be honest the boat sails at anchor so much I dont really see the point. - unless I was planning to be anchored in blow and I wanted to have two rolling hitches and two lines to double the resiliency and chafe protection
 
Patrick, do you run your midsheap cleated bridle through the bow chocks and back along the deck or just straight to the cleats? doesnt the line chafe the hull?
 
Gavin, my boat doesn’t have bow chocks. I wanted to install some but it’s too difficult to access the toerail. I just bought some chaffing gear to put on the bridle rodes which run straight back.
 
(I unknowingly submitted the above post before it was finished. Couldn’t figure out how to delete it).

Gavin, my boat doesn’t have bow chocks. I guess they forgot to put them on?? I really wanted to install some but it’s too difficult to access the toerail. I just bought some chaffing gear to put on the bridle rodes which run straight back. The bridle doesn’t hang low enough to touch the hull. I guess that If the boat sails at an acute angle the bridle will rub on the stainless plate on the bow. I’ve never observed this.
 
Patrick how do you attach the bridal to the anchor line?
 
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