How to secure anchor rode

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I use a Suncor anchor snubber on the chain. Here on the southeast coast most anchorages are fairly shallow. I don't often have to put out more than the 75ft of chain in my ground tackle. The main reason I started using the bridle is because I didn't want the leave the chain on the windlass at anchor (very noisy and not recommended). If I pay out all the chain I don't use the bridle. When securing the rode, I take a turn around the small cleat and then tie off on one of the larger cleats. I would love to see Cutwater/Ranger Tugs put a sampson post or mooring cleat aft of the windlass.
 
Quinsky - That's a great idea! Would require more line, but would solve the problem I've had mooring to a Park bouy (any bouy). My boat has a Rocna 15 and when I run lines from the big cleats on the "front porch" around the first stanchion (on both sides - a bridle) to a bouy ,the lines get thoroughly tangled up in the anchor because of its location way out in front. My current solution is to pick up the bouy, tie a line off as I described, the get in the dinghy, row to the bouy, attach another line, run it thru the u-bolt on the stem, then up to the big cleats. this get s the line low enough to clear the anchor. Then I release the first line. Its a real chore and should not be necessary. I'm beginning to think the designers have never actually been ON the boat.
 
Has anyone considered taking off the whole bowsprit structure? As far as I can tell it’s attached to the hull by the eight bolts securing the two large cleats. Once it is gone, one would have a clear view of the anchor, chain and rode as it came up. You would be able to easily clear kelp that came up with the anchor and clean mud off the hook. The two large cleats would be resecured to the deck with shorter bolts allowing either of them to be used directly to secure the rode while at anchor. And finally, it would be easy to reach down and take the anchor off the roller and put on deck if you wanted to use the roller to tightly secure a line straight up and down to a mooring ball. Thus no need for a bridle through the fairleads and no banging against the hull.

I’d be interested in thoughts on this proposal

Cheers
John
 
Noticed in Gavin’s photo that he has bow chocks that are designed for the line going through them to go to in an aft direction, not forward towards the anchor. My RT-25 Classic has the same bow area chocks and the factory confirmed that they were not intended to have line through them going forward. I had significant chafing on my lines using the factory installed chocks until I added a second pair of “forward direction chocks” very close to the bow. See my photo album.
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