How to Winterize GenSet/AC without a mess

[GaylesFaerie]

Hi, on my R27 the raw water seacocks (port side) for the GenSet and AC cooling lines each feed directly into a roughly 2.5" diameter Pumpgard filter. I assume to winterize these units I have to remove the filter caps and screens and pour in antifreeze while a unit runs until antifreeze is expelled out a thru-hull. If true, that's a pretty small target at the bottom of the engine well to hit from a gallon jug. Does anyone have a solution for some type of funnel that seals well into the filter housing? I'm thinking of using a collapsible silicon funnel that either fits snuggly inside or can stretch around the outside to seal. Any other ideas / techniques? Thanks, GF

 

[Brian B]

Pretty much the same setup on my 25SC. I use a flexible neck metal funnel to get the the antifreeze into the strainers. On the A/C I remove the feed house from the strainer, pull the hose up and stick the funnel right into the hose. The A/C pump draws the fluid better this way. You can also pump the antifreeze through the A/C discharge port until it come out the open through hull. This requires buying a pump to do it in reverse.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

Thanks for the reply Brian B. That makes sense, and I thought of removing the hose, except how did you ever get the hose off the Pumpgard? Those hoses are so stiff. GF

 

[Brian B]

Thanks for the reply Brian B. That makes sense, and I thought of removing the hose, except how did you ever get the hose off the Pumpgard? Those hoses are so stiff. GF

I have a right angle hose pick tool that helps in removing hoses. Try twisting it with a pair of pliers to get it started then maybe you can pull it off. If no joy go through the strainer but expect more spillage.

 

[CAPTCRUNCH]

Another way to push "the pink stuff" through the a/c heat exchanger or into bilge pump discharge hoses is to supply it to the washdown pump/hose through the raw water strainer. A small hose-end "drain bladder" helps seal the connection. No need to remove any hoses.

 

[nboyer]

On our R-23, I bought a replacement water strainer cap, drilled a hole in it and fashioned a fitting that connects to a shorted standard garden hose. I then connected the hose to a 5 gallon water container filled with antifreeze. While hooked up to shore power, I turn on the a/c and run it until pink stuff comes out thru hull fitting. No mess at all. Be sure to close the sea cock before doing this. I should mention, that the boat is out of the water when I winterize it. Cheers. -Norm

 

[JeffRad54]

Does anyone have tips on how to winterize the A/C system without a helper?
I'm 65, so not as limber as I used to be. Specifically, I am looking for a connection to be made with long wires, terminals, and a momentary switch to turn the A/C on and off as I have made for the Head Flush switch. I guess this would be made at the back of the FCF Controller in the R27 mid-berth.

Thanks,

 

[Barry Cohen]

I winterized YOLO's AC/genset two weeks ago. For the AC, set the thermostat to something well above ambient temperature. Pumps will kick in and you will get heat.

Shut off the ball valve for the water that goes into the AC unit. Remove the hose forward of the small strainer and put a funnel in the open end of hose. Let the unit run dry of salt water. Then run fresh water for a minute or two. Then let it run dry of fresh waster. Then pour in pink antifreeze until it discharges. Shut off the unit. Replace hose and tighten hose clamp.

Basically, the same steps for generator. Shut off the ball valve for the water that goes into the genset. Remove the hose forward of the small strainer and put a funnel in the open end of hose. Turn on genset and let it run dry of salt water. Then run fresh water for a minute or two. Then let it run dry of fresh waster. Then pour in pink antifreeze until it discharges. Shut off the unit. Replace hose and tighten hose clamp.

You are winterized!

 

[GaylesFaerie]

Thanks Barry, and how do you go about disengaging those hefty hoses from the Pump filters? GF

 

[Barry Cohen]

You bribe your 30 year old son, who has stronger hands than his 66 year old father, with a 30-pack of craft beer to do it for you. Then shower him with praise as you both kick back with a cold one.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

WOW! Looks like I'll need to take that hose off any which way possible now.

See picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/98Um8fX46PLbgBQx9

I just went into the engine compartment to do a pre-winterize oil change before haul out and noticed this rupture in the AC cooling hose. The bubble is almost an inch in diameter and very soft to the touch. I immediately closed the sea cock feeding that appliance. That was a lucky look and a good lesson to always look at your gear just for the hell of it.

Those hoses are quite stiff and solid and I'm surprised that it happened. Does that hose have that much suction pressure in it to cause something like that? I've been running the reverse cycle AC/Heat unit a number of times since purchasing the boat used (2012 R27) in August and it runs fine. Ran the heat side just last week.

Now I've got a decision... replace just that one hose assuming it had a defective section or replace all the hoses?!

 

[Brian B]

WOW! Looks like I'll need to take that hose off any which way possible now.

See picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/98Um8fX46PLbgBQx9

I just went into the engine compartment to do a pre-winterize oil change before haul out and noticed this rupture in the AC cooling hose. The bubble is almost an inch in diameter and very soft to the touch. I immediately closed the sea cock feeding that appliance. That was a lucky look and a good lesson to always look at your gear just for the hell of it.

Those hoses are quite stiff and solid and I'm surprised that it happened. Does that hose have that much suction pressure in it to cause something like that? I've been running the reverse cycle AC/Heat unit a number of times since purchasing the boat used (2012 R27) in August and it runs fine. Ran the heat side just last week.

Now I've got a decision... replace just that one hose assuming it had a defective section or replace all the hoses?!

This is how boats sink at the dock. It is a good practice to keep all seacocks closed unless they are in use.

 

[FWTMD]

There was an interesting discussion of hoses on another site. Someone bought a used large trawler, and the survey suggested replacing all hoses. They shrugged ... no big deal, and closed the deal. The quote to fix became $20k.

Apparently a lot of hoses run $200 - $300 per foot. Plus any labor.

Some apparently should be replaced on a 5 year cycle, some 10, and so forth.

It flagged for me the need for a project to figure the cycles out and schedule it. Space it out. Monitor more closely those nearing the end of their cycle.

You might want to assess where you stand. Inspect everything. Be careful to close seacocks until you are confident where you stand.

For what its worth.