hull maintenance

ciaran

Active member
Joined
Oct 23, 2024
Messages
36
Fluid Motion Model
R-25 SC
Vessel Name
Livin’ LARJ
Hello ,
I’ve been inundated with ads for skwol fiberglass restoration products on FB.
Does anyone have any long-term experience with this stuff to tell me it’s worth trying or not.
I’ve got a 2010 R25 with a good amount of oxidation.
Thanks
 
It might have to wait until the crabbing season is over
 
On order, I’ll see next week.
IMG_2766.jpeg
 
Very interested as well. Had our R31 waxed in May and already showing signs of oxidation again on the hull (blue). The rest of the job still looks great.
 
I opted for ceramic coating. There are a couple of before and after pictures in my photo album on this site. After three years of wax not holding up longer than three to four weeks in the SoCal sun, ceramic seemed to be the way to go. Now after 4 years and part of the great loop, I'm happy with the choice. There is still maintenance needed to keep the gel coat looking good with ceramic - spray treatment and rinsing off with de-ionized water. It also requires about a refresh every 4 to 6 months involving buffing and application of new ceramic coating. That has morphed into a relatively easy job with the boat on the trailer for a couple of days. I'm now into 4 months since the last clean up/buff/new application and the boat is looking good. There are several posts on this forum about ceramic, its application and effectivity.
 
The best way to recover the hull finish on a Fluid Motion built boat is have it painted. The gel coat products used by Fluid Motion "were' at least in the early days lower quality. This was my opinion after owning my new C26 2016 after a year. I noticed gel coat fading and porosity starting during the first year. This in my past experience something that was experienced on marine finishes after several years of being exposed to the harsh elements that a boat is used in. Both hull and top side gelcoat already required compounding and buffing. Once the fade is there it is never going away. You can fluff and buff and shine it. In a month's time it's going away. Bottom line ceramic coatings will buy you time at an expensive cost, there are other products that if applied buy time too. The bottom line is the Tugs and Cuts have poor quality gel coat finishes, once the short lived factory finish is lost you have a two choices. (1) Become proficient with the use of a buffer and plan on at minimum a once a year compound, polish and wax application. In my case I did my hull and topside every two months and the boat looked good. If I let it go any more than that it would start looking "blotchy". (2) Bite the bullet and have a quality marine finish applied to the hull and top side. Awlgrip is one of the quality products used in the marine industry. It is the go to marine finish. Once applied your fading problems are gone. This is not a bandaid it is a fix. The Ceramic finish was the go to a few years back when it hit the market as the cure all for maintaining a good finish on the hull and top side. It was expensive and required maintenance to keep the finish in good condition. It was a miracle finish at first, give it a couple years the cost comes back. The finish needs to be removed to achieve a restored look and another application applied. Not an inexpensive process. There are no inexpensive solutions that will give a lasting results. The best permanent fix to repairing the poor quality finish on your Fluid Motion product is get it painted.

Of all the complaints (many) I had about my Cutwater the gelcoat finish was the one that P'ed me off the most. I pride myself on owning a pristine looking boat. The best part of owning a Fluid Motion product, Ranger Tug or Cutwater is they are awesome looking head turning boats. When one enters a harbor people look. The last thing I wanted was a good looking boat with a dull faded hull. Unfortunately this is a common event and discussion. " Look there is a Ranger" ! "Tug cool boat ! Why are they all so faded looking? " I don't think it is that old". The oldest a Tug or Cut can be is 20 years old. Good quality gel coats have been available since the 90's. A 30 year old boat if maintained should have a good finish after 30 years. I purchased a 2002 Mainship in 2021. When my wife and I looked at it for the first time my wife asked me "do you think this boat was painted?". It looks better than the Cutwater we just sold. My answer was it must have been. As we got closer to it I could see it was the original gel coat. This boat was 19 years in service and had a far better finish than my 5 year in service Cutwater that I just sold. After purchasing the Mainship I applied a coat of wax on the hull and top side and left for the Loop. We spent 14 months on this adventure. When we finished the loop the hull and top sides still shined. It needed a wax job but still shined and after a wax job looked like a new boat again.

If I kept my Cutwater It would have been painted !! The rest of the products and applications are bandaids for old hulls and new Cutwaters and Ranger tugs! Quality boats use quality finishes. There are places to cut corners when building a boat. Gel coat is not one of them. I not a betting person but I would bet this problem is going away with the Correct Craft acquisition.
 
Last edited:
The best way to recover the hull finish on a Fluid Motion built boat is have it painted. The gel coat products used by Fluid Motion "were' at least in the early days lower quality. This was my opinion after owning my new C26 2016 after a year. I noticed gel coat fading and porosity already starting. This was in my past experience something that was experienced on marine finishes after several years and years of being exposed to the harsh elements that a boat is used in. Both hull and top side gelcoat already required compounding and buffing. Once the fade is there it is never going away. You can fluff and buff and shine it. In a month's time it's going away. Bottom line ceramic coatings will buy you time at an expensive cost, there are other products that if applied buy time too. The bottom line is the Tugs and Cuts have poor quality gel coat finishes, once the short lived factory finish is lost you have a two choices. (1) Become proficient with the use of a buffer and plan on at minimum a once a year compound, polish and wax application. In my case I did my hull and topside every two months and the boat looked good. If I let it go any more than that it would start looking "blotchy". (2) Bite the bullet and have a quality marine finish applied to the hull and top side. Awlgrip is one of the quality products used in the marine industry. It is the go to marine finish. Once applied your fading problems are gone. This is not a bandaid it is a fix. The Ceramic finish was the go to a few years back when it hit the market as the cure all for maintaining a good finish on the hull and top side. It was expensive and also required maintenance to keep the finish in good condition. It was a miracle finish at first, give it a couple years the cost comes back. The finish needs to be removed to achieve a restored look and another application applied. Not an inexpensive process. There are no inexpensive solutions that will give a lasting results. The best permanent fix to repairing the poor quality finish on your Fluid Motion product is get it painted.

Of all the complaints (many) I had about my Cutwater the gelcoat finish was the one that P'ed me off the most. I pride myself on owning a pristine looking boat. The best part of owning a Fluid Motion product, Ranger Tug or Cutwater is they are awesome looking head turning boats. When one enters a harbor people look. The last thing I wanted was a good looking boat with a dull faded hull. Unfortunately this is a common event and discussion. " Look there is a Ranger" ! "Tug cool boat ! Why are they all so faded looking? " I don't think it is that old". The oldest a Tug or Cut can be is 20 years old. Good quality gel coats have been available since the 90's. A 30 year old boat if maintained should have a good finish after 30 years. I purchased a 2002 Mainship in 2021. When my wife and I looked at it for the first time my wife asked me "do you think this boat was painted?". It looks better than the Cutwater we just sold. My answer was it must have been. As we got closer to it I could see it was the original Gel coat. This boat was 19 years in service and had a far better finish than my 5 year inservice Cutwater that I just sold. After purchasing the Mainship I applied a coat of wax on the hull and top side and then left for the Loop. We spent 14 months on this adventure. When we finished the loop the hull and top sides still shined. It needed a wax job but still shined and after a wax job looked like a new boat again.

If I kept my Cutwater It would have been painted !! the rest of the products and applications are bandaids for old hulls and new Cutwaters and Ranger tugs! Quality boats use quality finishes they why they are none as quality built boats. There are places to cut corners when building a boat. Gel coat is not one of them. I not a betting person but I would bet this problem is going away with the Correct Craft acquisition.
Thank you for that very comprehensive answer. When we bought the boat the broker said we’d just have to live with the fade. He was being honest. No band-aids worth applying. I’ll look into Awlgrip for the red hull
 
Thank you for that very comprehensive answer. When we bought the boat the broker said we’d just have to live with the fade. He was being honest. No band-aids worth applying. I’ll look into Awlgrip for the red hull
I just went to AI and inquired about painting over a gel coat and got quite an explanation. After some back and forth, AI even was looking at local facilities where I could get it done, what questions to ask when I called them and what the probable quotes would be. Looks like a viable option, but like all boating issues not inexpensive.
 
IMG_0228 Large.jpeg
IMG_0229 Large.jpeg
IMG_0230 Large.jpeg
Ok, started the Skwol anti-oxidation buffing today. First off, I’ve never done any of this buffing etc. so I’m a total novice (how long? How much?) in my opinion, the gel coat is heavily oxidized and probably hasn’t been cleaned since 2020 when the previous owners acquired her. (The marine survey from 2020 shows a pristine red hull and bottom paint in excellent condition.) I took some pictures but it’s in shade. Overall, it took a lot of chalk off but some areas required 3-4 applications - maybe it’s me and my technique. Anyways here’s pics of day 1 reduced size to upload.
 
Don't paint it. I was given a quote of over $6k to have our hull sanded as part of the restore process. I figured I would see what I could do first as a DIY before spending that money. I also have no experience restoring gel-coat Here's ours after a 3rd application using 3M's "Protect-It" line (heavy cut)


IMG_1006.jpg
IMG_1222.jpg
 
I switched buffing /polishing heads and the hull definitely looks better than the pics I posted. Only question is for how long?
 
I switched buffing /polishing heads and the hull definitely looks better than the pics I posted. Only question is for how long?
As long a you maintain a protective coating like a wax I think it will last
 
It’s November 2 and Skwol is losing the battle after 60 days (September and October). I did apply the spray after all the buffing. The water still beads but the white chalky oxidation is definitely coming back. It’s getting colder here and I doubt it’ll be reasonable to try and buff the hull when I haul out probably in a few weeks.

Waste of time and money? Hard to say.
Disappointing? For sure.
 
It’s November 2 and Skwol is losing the battle after 60 days (September and October). I did apply the spray after all the buffing. The water still beads but the white chalky oxidation is definitely coming back. It’s getting colder here and I doubt it’ll be reasonable to try and buff the hull when I haul out probably in a few weeks.

Waste of time and money? Hard to say.
Disappointing? For sure.
Good information. Skwol bought a sh/? Ton of Facebook marketing. It seems like it’s not all it’s cracked up to be. I asked the broker that sold me the boat what would be the best way to restore the hull. He surprised me by telling me that beyond an expensive awlgrip-type repaint, I’d just have to learn to live with it. I think he was on the level.
 
Mattatoar, your 60-day result is the useful part of this thread — beading water and returning chalk can both be true, since the spray is a topper and the oxidation underneath keeps surfacing. Given the cold and your haul-out in a few weeks, I'd skip the buffing now and just clean and re-seal, saving the compounding for warmer weather. The broker's point about living with it or committing to a real repaint matches what I've read elsewhere for older gelcoat. Spending on more marketing-hyped product won't change the underlying surface.
 
Yes. I felt like it was worth a try and I needed to share the actual results after time had passed… others may have better or worse results depending on their gel coat situation versus mine.
 
I got ceramic coating done a little over three years ago and have been very happy with the results. I'm now planning to get it redone. I think my hull looks very well maintained and not oxidized. However, I'm not planning to enter a concourse d'elegance anytime soon.
 
It’s November 2 and Skwol is losing the battle after 60 days (September and October). I did apply the spray after all the buffing. The water still beads but the white chalky oxidation is definitely coming back. It’s getting colder here and I doubt it’ll be reasonable to try and buff the hull when I haul out probably in a few weeks.

Waste of time and money? Hard to say.
Disappointing? For sure.

I think the oxidation was always there. Compounds contain oils and fillers that can give the surface a shiny look, and once those wash away the hidden oxidation surface is revealed again.

My guess is you didn't cut enough of the oxidation away, and the compound fillers gave a false sense of remediation. I think you'll have to cut again, or even sand it.
 
Back
Top