I’m at a loss!

[BaylorU]

OK folks,
I am at a loss...my stern thruster has quit on me (bow works great), and I have looked high and low, looked in the manual, and tried searching the forums, and I absolutely cannot locate the fuse for the thrusters anywhere.
Can someone please help explain to me what is sure to end up being blindingly obvious? Where in God’s name is the fuse/breaker for the damn stern thruster???

Also, while I’m at it...what’s the trick to getting the float switches on my bilge pumps to activate? I cannot seem to figure out what switches need to be on in order to allow those floats to turn on when needed, and I’m about to leave my boat in the water for the next couple months in San Diego, while I live in Denver. I’d like to come back to a floating boat, and I have a slow drip in my prop shaft packing so it’s imperative I figure this out ASAP. Does the SPX switch need to be on at the helm or something to get the floats to turn my pumps on? I’ve tried it (*with water in the bilge over the float level) and it does nothing.

Thanks!
Ken

 

[Capt’nKarl]

Ken, I can’t help with the float switch but here’s my 2 cents on the thruster problem. I only have a bow thruster and it went dead on me last year just when I needed it. It took a few hours to figure out the issue but here’s what I did and learned. I hooked up 12 Volt jumper cables directly to the the thruster connectors and when current was applied the thruster worked. I then worked the wiring backwards to the fuse and found a faulty cable connector that prevented current from reaching the thruster. Replaced the cable connector and it works fine. There are brushes in the thruster that have to be cleaned or replaced from time to time. If there is no response from the thruster when you directly connect it to 12 Volt power that may be the issue. Good luck!
Cheers,
Karl

 

[tugnnaweigh]

Most likely if there are fuses for the thrusters they are in line with the big red cable that feeds power to the thrusters, mine are in the compartment with all the other switches, breakers, fuse panels and batteries. Also a chance the fuse is fine and then you’re off to the control module at the helm or the thruster itself is bad, lots of information on the ‘Nuts using the search.

Bilge pumps tend to be wired in hot permanently so they work always. A good test of the float switch is to immerse it and see if the pump comes on, which you’ve done and it sounds like your float switch needs some love.

There also might be a switch on your 12 volt panel labeled bilge pump for manual operation to see if the pump itself is bad, confirm all fuses are good prior to any more testing.

One of my float switches went bad so I replaced both with pumps that have the float switch integral with the pump, you just attach the base to the bilge and snap the pump/float switch into it. I’m hoping this design helps when I pull them for diagnosis/repairs/maintenance; I’ll have the entire unit in my hand and can actuate the float switch easily, see how far it can fly and if it floats!

As for the slow drip take a look at it when the shaft is not turning, hopefully it’s greatly reduced or eliminated.

Yes, boats can be frustrating, I see you have a Hunter 466, solid hull, top quality boat, might I suggest drinking on the Hunter whilst giving Cutwater the ‘ol stink eye, couldn't hurt, you’d feel better, etc.

 

[BB marine]

2016 C26 has the thruster fuses located behind the monkey fur panel as you go into the cave.

Testing the auto bilge pumps can be done two ways two finger test or add enough water into the bilge until the water goes above the auto bilge pump sensor. If it doesn't kick on take a paper towel and clean the two sensor (circles). In the past I tested the auto switches once a year and clean the film off of them but recently found that that may not be often enough. The forward high water auto switch I use the two finger test. Clean the face of the (circles) then hold a finger on each (circle) pump should turn on if auto sensor is functional.

(Circles) refer to the sensor pick-ups

 

[BaylorU]

Hey guys, thanks to you all for the replies (*and please forgive my delayed response/gratitude....been out on the boat).
I really didn’t dig much into the stern thruster issue, except to confirm that unfortunately the fuse is perfectly fine (dang). Besides that, it sounds like I have some work to do/diagnosis. It’s not the end of the world to not have a stern thruster (it’s nice to have, but not necessary), so it’s not a major hurry.

As far as the auto-bilge switches go, two things were happening: first, I didn’t realize those had their own fuse, but they do. If you are having issues with your auto-pump not coming on, check that fuse (on mine it’s a 5A located behind the monkey fuzz in the cave toward stern). Replaced that (it was blown), did the finger test, no luck. Replaced with same solid state switch, works great. Man working in that tiny engine compartment blows....good thing I’m still young because I was freaking sore the next day!

I’m wondering if those solid state bilge pump switches have a usable life. However, that being said the “finger test” didn’t work on either the one located on the forward engine room bulkhead OR on the brand-new solid state switch, so I’m not sure what’s wrong with my fingers to cause the test to not work (even after cleaning the sensors). I can confirm that despite the finger test not working on the brand-new switch, when the bottom of bilge is filled with water it does, in fact, turn the pump on. So I guess next thing I’m replacing is my fingers :lol: .

Now on to deal with the dripping prop shaft seal, which is about a drip every 2 seconds or so at rest. Tried to tighten with a couple pairs of slip-joint pliers LOL, and that’s not happening. So boat is now in a slip 800 miles away with a dripping shaft seal....not my favorite thing. I may have to bite the bullet and get a boat mechanic out there to fix, as obviously it’s at risk of taking on water and I won’t be back out there for at least a month. Hate to rely on those pumps to keep her safe.

After that, looks like the Garmin GHP10 pump for Autopilot is shot. When it’s looped into the system it’s a constant steering adjustment every 2-3 seconds to maintain a straight course. When isolated out of the system via those three screws, steering is tight and dead on, no adjustments required. Sucks. What a POS that pump is....according to the records from the PO (Elan on this forum), that pump has been replaced at least twice. Garmin should be ashamed to put out such a piece of crap.

Hope everyone is enjoying their summers so far!
Ken