Impeller Failure

I just changed the impeller on my Yanmar 110 HP over the weekend. I used a piece of Gorilla Tape to hold the cover in place while I started the machine screws. Pulled the tape off after the first two were in. Worked great.
 
'After Steak & Beer, What kind of knife is recommended for all these impeller repairs?
 
Just finished a impeller replacement on a 2008 R25 with the QSD. My pumps back has a plate that's held on by four bolt and is fairly accessible from the back of the engine.

Helpful tools here are a three foot extension for the sockets, a two foot long pair of needle nose pliers,a deep and shallow socket for the bolts and a magnet on a stick for you know what.

Helpful tricks for removal are marking the plate with a arrow prior to removal in order to facilitate installation, the four bolt holes are in no way squared around. There’s a picture of my pump with the cover off in my album illustrating this.

Using the deep socket to remove the bolts will usually cause the bolt to end up in the socket and if you keep it horizontal while it travels back to you, there’s your bolt in your hand! This can be where the magnet on a stick comes in handy and yes, I carry extra bolts!

Grasping the impeller with the two foot long needle nose pliers I tugged at 12 6 9 and 3 o’clock positions for about five cycles before any movement was noticeable. It got about a quarter of the way out and then popped out. I had it replaced at purchase so I knew the hours on it.

The install was eased with plenty of lube and the wire tie trick I found here on the ‘Nuts. I put a bolt through the plate and was able to get it hung back on by one point by hand. After I threaded another bolt by hand I used the shallow socket to install the remaining bolts remotely by using a dab of grease to hold the bolt temporally in the socket for the horizontal journey to the pump.

I always try to envision any task being done while on the water, I’d put this one down as less than pleasant but doable. Usually when I change things out prior to failure the old one becomes the spare, belts are a good example, here with impellers I always just slap a new one in, I bought half a dozen when I purchased the Tug.
 
Interesting thread. Some comments from an R-25 prospective.

1. I've always used raw water wash down as an impeller backup on previous boats. Harder to do in the R-25 since the wash down and engine raw water come from the same sea chest and thru hull. If you use wash down as a backup, inspect your exhaust first. The as-delivered overheat alarm doesn't detect Muffler meltdown, so you may be pumping exhaust and water into your bilge rather than overboard. If this is your backup plan, install a flow alarm or exhaust temp alarm to be safe.

2. Impellers fail more frequently on boats that are dry stored or trailered because the impeller may dry out or overheat when stored dry.

3. Yearly changeout was normal on my previous boats but is so difficult on the R-25 that I just hope for the best.
 
If one was to consider using the raw water pump as an backup because of impeller failure you would need to remove the impeller to get free flow of water pressure from the hose you may shove into the raw water engine inlet. At that point you may as well carry a spare impeller and replace it. Carrying a spare belt is a good idea as well. If the intake on the raw water is clogged you may have to dive in and clear it. I also carry a wet suit. And then there is always Boat US towing insurance.
 
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