inboard to outboard conversion

[Niels Hansen]

I did not know Yanmar was still around. good to know. your reply about your retrofit with the Kubota is interesting and really well thought out. is the ZF transmission and low profile oil pan readily available? are there upgrades to the engine that will get closer to the 200 hp mark? how about engine mounts, exhaust system, and cooling. how different are they ?I share your fondness for less electronics with the engine. I am still leaning towards a pair of 200-250hp Yamahas. you have given me pause to think about the diesel alternative. because I picked this boat up for only $8,500 I have a lot of room to spend for upgrades. where in Alaska do you live?

 

[Bigpapaporsche]

Original to boat was 150 QSD (2.0 "Cummins" .... aka 80's BMW block converted by VM motori in Italy and resold through a Cummin Mercruiser deal in USA ) , it had been repowered after many hours by the original owners with a 130 QSD ( same engine de rated to 130hp ) , I purchased a few years after that but the second owners didn't have a clue about how to care for a boat let alone a Diesel inboard. It had been used and abused but much of it was missed during survey at purchase .... needless to say it was suffering excessive blow by, rear main leaks, etc shortly into my tenure with it .... it was my problem at that point so it was re-powered with a Betamarine 62T (2.4L) that I custom ordered and installed in 2024. Original engine 150hp would cruise at 12-13kts from what I've been told, 130hp would cruise at 9-11kts per my experience, now the 62hp Turbo Betamarine which is a Kubota 2403-m-t-eu4 engine cruises at 6-8kts all day.

Our use case was 95% of the time at hull speed so 6-7kts based on math for the R25c, so it works well for us and SIPS the fuel .... sub 1gph at hull speed. I love the change and would do it again. I fully plan to get a faster boat when the time is right but for the family here in SE a slow boat is all that's needed for getting out and enjoying the area now. I could have gone with a Yanmar 110hp diesel but the waitlist was 18months and I am not a fan of overcomplicating marine situations with electronics. Plus per the math I would have only gained 1-2 kts max. The power required to increase speed over your hulls mathematical speed increases exponentially. You quickly realize that you have to toss a LOT of power aka fuel problem to go just a little faster. The new engine is rock solid old school mechanical ... aka EMP proof if that type of thing floats your boat, lol.

I really considered the outboard pods and doing smaller twins on it ..... it just was not cost effective once I looked into it deeply and started adding everything up. I would have also had to add a secondary fuel tank where the old engine was to compensate for the increased fuel burn outboards would have vs inboard Diesel. All that and I would have lost my engine heated cabin heat exchanger and hot water heater ... along with the Diesel source for my cooktop / aux cabin heater. Not that those things could not be fixed, I just decided it was not worth the effort for what I really wanted in the end.

Im interested to see what you end up doing! Good luck.

Link to Beta engine I used with some custom stuff ordered also. Checkout my profile posts for photos of my install. TMC345A gearbox, shallow sum oil pan, rear PTO driven raw water, remote oil filter , British green paint since I dislike the red color, etc ....

Beta 62T46.2 kW / 62 hp @ 2,800 rpm - Beta Marine USA

betamarineusa.com

last re-power followup thread of mine .... with photos.

S

Post in thread 'R25c Repower - QSD to BetaMarine'

Dec 5, 2024

I am thinking the QDS had electronic throttle and shift. Did you need to add mechanical throttle and shift with one lever or did you split them?

the QSD has electronic throttle connection on the port side of engine and gearbox has cable shift ( ZF25A ) both are morse type cable from the helm however. No changes needed there. I did however replace both the throttle and shift cables with the repower as they were getting a little stiff.

• Seakr25

I enjoyed your Project, it looks like you did a First Class Job! However, I would recommend a "lighter color" for the Engine so leaks can be seen easier. This is why many manufactures paint their Engine White/Yellow/Tan or Yanmar Sliver/Gray, etc.
I think everyone would be Interested and Benefit from an Overview of the Costs/Time that you spent on this Project!

 

[Seakr25]

I enjoyed your Project, it looks like you did a First Class Job! However, I would recommend a "lighter color" for the Engine so leaks can be seen easier. This is why many manufactures paint their Engine White/Yellow/Tan etc.
I think everyone would be Interested and Benefit from an Overview of the Costs/Time that you spent on this Project!

I totally agree a lighter color would make leaks easier to source. It was purely for looks as I wanted something that looked like it was from years past. My other vessel is a 1946 wooden sailboat so the classic look and feel is kind of my thing.

Engine was a little over 20k as ordered and delivered with a gearbox. It took about 10k in additional parts and labor to got everything installed and done. It was NOT cheap but it's done and the boat is back in service for my family. total time was a real pain since the start. The engine failed and the decision to reposer occurred summer of 2023. It took 4-5 months of solid research and measurements of the compartment before a decision was made. I researched EVERY ... and I mean EVERY option. I took detailed dimensions provides from each engine vendor and did CAD mock ups based on a few laser scans and some old school measuring by hand. Yanmar was the smallest package overall and fit the best honestly. I can't believe how small they make their stuff. That being said I went the Beta route for old school mechanical. That really limited me however. I wanted to put in the 85hp (3L~) Beta but there was some clearance concerns for the oil pan and also around the bottom of the door. Not saying I could not have shoe horned it in but it would have been very close. That lead me to the slightly smaller 62hp Turbo (2.4L). It was still .4l larger than the stock engine but being IDI ( QSD is common rail) it was much less powerful. It did however eliminate all the computer controlled engine stuffs ... which did bring its own set of things to deal with I suppose.

Engine was ordered in January 2024, there was a 6-7 month wait estimated for Betamarine. This was still way less than Yanmar who said it would be up to 18months for a package. They got it to me in exactly 7 months so I shipped the boat from SE Alaska down to Seattle area, but the shop space was now full and it was August before serious work started. Sept 2024 it was installed. I put in all raycor filter, gearbox, shaft, cutlass, dripless shaft seal, coupler, prop at the same time. I also had anti-siphon loop added to the raw water exhaust dump into the main exhaust for insurance. The sea trial ended up discovering I needed to remove 2-3" of pitch from the new prop to get full RPM ( 17x17 3-blade was too much). So a new prop was sourced (17x14 3-blade) and the second sea trial went great. I then promptly shipped the boat back up to SE Alaska from the Seattle area. Needless to say it was a LONG process getting this poor boat back into a usable state and I am looking forward to a lot more time on the water in 2025.

 

[Seakr25]

I did not know Yanmar was still around. good to know. your reply about your retrofit with the Kubota is interesting and really well thought out. is the ZF transmission and low profile oil pan readily available? are there upgrades to the engine that will get closer to the 200 hp mark? how about engine mounts, exhaust system, and cooling. how different are they ?I share your fondness for less electronics with the engine. I am still leaning towards a pair of 200-250hp Yamahas. you have given me pause to think about the diesel alternative. because I picked this boat up for only $8,500 I have a lot of room to spend for upgrades. where in Alaska do you live?

You might be able to take regular Kubota engine sourced yourself for non-marine use and add the required parts to raw water cool it and get a marine gearbox bolted up. Won't be super cheap but much less than ordering a new ready to go unit from Beta or Nanni , Westbrook, etc ... That might be the best route if you want to modify the engine for additional HP also. I have seen the same 2403 Kubota engines taken above 150-180hp range but you're pushing the engine pretty hard to do so. I would not want to over rate the new engine from Beta as it seems like a waste of the support services and warranty. Engine mounts with the 62T were spot on from beta and I did not have to custom order them. The exhaust and intake hoses were all on the proper sides and required just a little work to modify things.

I live in very southern SE Alaska.

I honestly can't believe you picked the boat for $8,500. That's a STEAL even with a bad engine. I would do it in a heartbeat if the thing floated! You really can't go wrong no matter what route you go.

there is a guy on YouTube that tossed a Kubota 2403 into his jeep. .... he aded some extra power with mods and got well above 120hp I think ... can't remember. Here is a link ...

Kubota V2403 Diesel Swap RHD TJ Wrangler

This is a playlist of all the videos around Project Felicity, my 2006 Right Hand Drive TJ Jeep Wrangler that I'm swapping a Kubota V2403 diesel engine into.

www.youtube.com

Also here is a link to a group out of Bellingham area that is a marine school. They recently went through a Repower on a donated boat. It's similar to yours and they ended up going with 110hp yammer for resale value ... but they considered even as low as 56hp as that was all that the boat "needed" to do hull speed on the inside passage.

 

[Bigpapaporsche]

I totally agree a lighter color would make leaks easier to source. It was purely for looks as I wanted something that looked like it was from years past. My other vessel is a 1946 wooden sailboat so the classic look and feel is kind of my thing.

Engine was a little over 20k as ordered and delivered with a gearbox. It took about 10k in additional parts and labor to got everything installed and done. It was NOT cheap but it's done and the boat is back in service for my family. total time was a real pain since the start. The engine failed and the decision to reposer occurred summer of 2023. It took 4-5 months of solid research and measurements of the compartment before a decision was made. I researched EVERY ... and I mean EVERY option. I took detailed dimensions provides from each engine vendor and did CAD mock ups based on a few laser scans and some old school measuring by hand. Yanmar was the smallest package overall and fit the best honestly. I can't believe how small they make their stuff. That being said I went the Beta route for old school mechanical. That really limited me however. I wanted to put in the 85hp (3L~) Beta but there was some clearance concerns for the oil pan and also around the bottom of the door. Not saying I could not have shoe horned it in but it would have been very close. That lead me to the slightly smaller 62hp Turbo (2.4L). It was still .4l larger than the stock engine but being IDI ( QSD is common rail) it was much less powerful. It did however eliminate all the computer controlled engine stuffs ... which did bring its own set of things to deal with I suppose.

Engine was ordered in January 2024, there was a 6-7 month wait estimated for Betamarine. This was still way less than Yanmar who said it would be up to 18months for a package. They got it to me in exactly 7 months so I shipped the boat from SE Alaska down to Seattle area, but the shop space was now full and it was August before serious work started. Sept 2024 it was installed. I put in all raycor filter, gearbox, shaft, cutlass, dripless shaft seal, coupler, prop at the same time. I also had anti-siphon loop added to the raw water exhaust dump into the main exhaust for insurance. The sea trial ended up discovering I needed to remove 2-3" of pitch from the new prop to get full RPM ( 17x17 3-blade was too much). So a new prop was sourced (17x14 3-blade) and the second sea trial went great. I then promptly shipped the boat back up to SE Alaska from the Seattle area. Needless to say it was a LONG process getting this poor boat back into a usable state and I am looking forward to a lot more time on the water in 2025.

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation of your project!
I am curious, what was wrong with the original Engine and did you consider repairing it?

 

[Seakr25]

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation of your project!
I am curious, what was wrong with the original Engine and did you consider repairing it?

Original engine, no clue what the issue was as that was a previous owner thing. Second engine was used and abused. It was originally leaking from the rear main seal making a somewhat oily bilge, so I had the engine pulled and "fixed" by a local shop ... NOT CHEAP with the crank seal area cleanup work and the lower end bearings I had installed while it was out... they showed odd wear actually and that should have been a sign ... hindsight is 20/20 though ...... 30 hours later seal was gone again and I had an oil filled bilge yet again and the local repair shops here in SE Alaska didn't want to touch it anymore as its just a problem engine in their eyes that was hard to find parts for .... this time there was a lot more investigate work done by me to determine the actual cause not just a faulty seal. That uncovered excessive crankcase pressure and cylinder scoring. I would have been looking at an entire rebuild on the engine .... the cost of that was not worth it since the engine itself was pretty much unsupported locally and VERY, VERY hard to find good info on let alone parts. Faced with that I gutted the engine compartment and computer control systems for the engine and started fresh. In the end it would have been much better to save the round one of repair work and scrap the engine .... but you just dont know sometimes. I wish I knew what actually caused everything but it would not change what was done.

I still have the complete QSD with 135 hours on it sitting in my garage on a stand. Computer control system, gauges and all ..... Maybe it will be a winter home rebuild for me one day or I'll sell off the expensive parts one by one on eBay to recoup some costs ....

 

[Bigpapaporsche]

Original engine, no clue what the issue was as that was a previous owner thing. Second engine was used and abused. It was originally leaking from the rear main seal making a somewhat oily bilge, so I had the engine pulled and "fixed" by a local shop ... NOT CHEAP with the crank seal area cleanup work and the lower end bearings I had installed while it was out... they showed odd wear actually and that should have been a sign ... hindsight is 20/20 though ...... 30 hours later seal was gone again and I had an oil filled bilge yet again and the local repair shops here in SE Alaska didn't want to touch it anymore as its just a problem engine in their eyes that was hard to find parts for .... this time there was a lot more investigate work done by me to determine the actual cause not just a faulty seal. That uncovered excessive crankcase pressure and cylinder scoring. I would have been looking at an entire rebuild on the engine .... the cost of that was not worth it since the engine itself was pretty much unsupported locally and VERY, VERY hard to find good info on let alone parts. Faced with that I gutted the engine compartment and computer control systems for the engine and started fresh. In the end it would have been much better to save the round one of repair work and scrap the engine .... but you just dont know sometimes. I wish I knew what actually caused everything but it would not change what was done.

I still have the complete QSD with 135 hours on it sitting in my garage on a stand. Computer control system, gauges and all ..... Maybe it will be a winter home rebuild for me one day or I'll sell off the expensive parts one by one on eBay to recoup some costs ....

Another great explanation!
I retired from the Diesel Engine/Equipment Industry after over 50 years as a Mechanic and Region Service Mrg, so I understand situation like this. I guess the Reputation and Parts availability of the Cummins Engine also added to your decision. Judging from what I've seen from your pictures and how you explain things, I am convinced, more than ever that you did a PROFESSIONAL JOB!
BTW, are you familiar with the Volvo D3 or D4 engines in the Range boats?
I am looking for a Project Boat now, ideally with an Yanmar.

 

[Niels Hansen]

just food for thought;;;if the original failed engine was already a rebuild, if it was line bored for the crank there is a real possibly the main bores are not concentric with the seal bore.

 

[Seakr25]

Another great explanation!
I retired from the Diesel Engine/Equipment Industry after over 50 years as a Mechanic and Region Service Mrg, so I understand situation like this. I guess the Reputation and Parts availability of the Cummins Engine also added to your decision. Judging from what I've seen from your pictures and how you explain things, I am convinced, more than ever that you did a PROFESSIONAL JOB!
BTW, are you familiar with the Volvo D3 or D4 engines in the Range boats?
I am looking for a Project Boat now, ideally with an Yanmar.

I have not worked with any of the D3 or D4 engines, however they look interesting and I have seen quite a few in rangers while researching. I did actually consider going to Volvo route and mocked up a few models they offered. In the end I came the the same conclusion I did with Yanmar being common rail and heavily dependent on electronics. Mechanical diesel engines are a past time / hobby for me these days as I handle management oversight of technology infrastructure for the government as a career. Getting away from the electronics is always nice...

 

[Seakr25]

just food for thought;;;if the original failed engine was already a rebuild, if it was line bored for the crank there is a real possibly the main bores are not concentric with the seal bore.

The engine was not supposed to be a rebuild from what I had paperwork wise, but as time goes on I suspect it may have been. Your thoughts might be spot on and very much explain the ongoing issues it has had.

 

[Rode Trip]

The engine was not supposed to be a rebuild from what I had paperwork wise, but as time goes on I suspect it may have been. Your thoughts might be spot on and very much explain the ongoing issues it has had.

Seakr25, I'm curious what you found for the larger engine options that would fit in the R25. Did you measure for the new Yanmar 150+ HP engines? What is the largest that you found that would fit in the engine compartment and closely align? I know of another repower-needing R25 in my area, and not for me, but was wondering for others if a 150-200 repower option is available. While I think you did great work and I respect your choices, the ability to cruise at 12 knots instead of displacement speeds is one of the reasons we went with an R25.

 

[Seakr25]

Seakr25, I'm curious what you found for the larger engine options that would fit in the R25. Did you measure for the new Yanmar 150+ HP engines? What is the largest that you found that would fit in the engine compartment and closely align? I know of another repower-needing R25 in my area, and not for me, but was wondering for others if a 150-200 repower option is available. While I think you did great work and I respect your choices, the ability to cruise at 12 knots instead of displacement speeds is one of the reasons we went with an R25.

Up to the size of the Yanmar 110hp fits really well IMO. The Beta I went with was actually larger overall but with far less HP due to non common rail design. All the larger options were VERY tight and exceeded my comfort zone for modifications to make fit if my measurements were off even a little. I suspect there is an option from Yanmar in the 150-250 range like the 4LV series that would likely fit but you would need to do the math yourself for your vessel. I suspect the oil pan depth would cause some issues vs length overall. That pushes up the engine into the door and changes the alignment of the shaft which makes you push it forward to get higher ... where you run into the bulkhead for the fuel and interior. Everything you make larger causes another problem lol .... Per the communications I had with ranger there was no 100% "standard" build. They were all hand built boats back then and somewhat bespoke to each configuration.That was from ranger themselves when I asked about fitting other engines and if they had any drawings or measurements they would share, so take that info for what it is.

I think the sweet spot for most folks will be the Yanmar 110HP with some 8deg down angle gearbox ... the KM4A2, ZF25A or the TMC345A ... or similar.

 

[BigSir]

Another great explanation!
I retired from the Diesel Engine/Equipment Industry after over 50 years as a Mechanic and Region Service Mrg, so I understand situation like this. I guess the Reputation and Parts availability of the Cummins Engine also added to your decision. Judging from what I've seen from your pictures and how you explain things, I am convinced, more than ever that you did a PROFESSIONAL JOB!
BTW, are you familiar with the Volvo D3 or D4 engines in the Range boats?
I am looking for a Project Boat now, ideally with an Yanmar.

 

[BigSir]

I have one for you. I broke the engine in my 2009 RT 25 and it has been removed.
Can you Message me to discuss.
My boat is in super shape except the engine. Trailer included

 

[BigSir]

Assuming Speed is your objective, maybe you should consider a Cruiser rather than a Tug. I don't understand how Ranger can call their boats Tugs when the newer OB's go that FAST! I would love to find Ranger with a bad Yanmar.

I have one. Where do you live? Contact me

 

[Niels Hansen]

my original post about considering changing the 2009 25 ft ranger from the bad inboard it has to one or two Yamaha outboards has taken on a new twist. I bought the boat sight unseen for cheap and I just picked it up from Florida and have gone over it in detail for the first time. turns out it has a brand new 150 hp VM Motori engine and transmission and expensive aftermarket exhaust system. Never been started and run ! apparently it is about a two year project by time you get all these drivetrain parts and complete the installation for a cost of $20K. Unfortunately, the engine turns over but is very tight and won't start. I am still undecided about converting to outboards. I will pull the motor and see exactly what the problem is. it is very apparent these inboards are extremely difficult to work on. things like the oil drain plug and starter motor and injectors are all but impossible to reach. anyone looking for a new 150 hp MR500 VM Motori and transmission with unknown problems?

 

[Niels Hansen]

Original to boat was 150 QSD (2.0 "Cummins" .... aka 80's BMW block converted by VM motori in Italy and resold through a Cummin Mercruiser deal in USA ) , it had been repowered after many hours by the original owners with a 130 QSD ( same engine de rated to 130hp ) , I purchased a few years after that but the second owners didn't have a clue about how to care for a boat let alone a Diesel inboard. It had been used and abused but much of it was missed during survey at purchase .... needless to say it was suffering excessive blow by, rear main leaks, etc shortly into my tenure with it .... it was my problem at that point so it was re-powered with a Betamarine 62T (2.4L) that I custom ordered and installed in 2024. Original engine 150hp would cruise at 12-13kts from what I've been told, 130hp would cruise at 9-11kts per my experience, now the 62hp Turbo Betamarine which is a Kubota 2403-m-t-eu4 engine cruises at 6-8kts all day.

Our use case was 95% of the time at hull speed so 6-7kts based on math for the R25c, so it works well for us and SIPS the fuel .... sub 1gph at hull speed. I love the change and would do it again. I fully plan to get a faster boat when the time is right but for the family here in SE a slow boat is all that's needed for getting out and enjoying the area now. I could have gone with a Yanmar 110hp diesel but the waitlist was 18months and I am not a fan of overcomplicating marine situations with electronics. Plus per the math I would have only gained 1-2 kts max. The power required to increase speed over your hulls mathematical speed increases exponentially. You quickly realize that you have to toss a LOT of power aka fuel problem to go just a little faster. The new engine is rock solid old school mechanical ... aka EMP proof if that type of thing floats your boat, lol.

I really considered the outboard pods and doing smaller twins on it ..... it just was not cost effective once I looked into it deeply and started adding everything up. I would have also had to add a secondary fuel tank where the old engine was to compensate for the increased fuel burn outboards would have vs inboard Diesel. All that and I would have lost my engine heated cabin heat exchanger and hot water heater ... along with the Diesel source for my cooktop / aux cabin heater. Not that those things could not be fixed, I just decided it was not worth the effort for what I really wanted in the end.

Im interested to see what you end up doing! Good luck.

Link to Beta engine I used with some custom stuff ordered also. Checkout my profile posts for photos of my install. TMC345A gearbox, shallow sum oil pan, rear PTO driven raw water, remote oil filter , British green paint since I dislike the red color, etc ....

Beta 62T46.2 kW / 62 hp @ 2,800 rpm - Beta Marine USA

betamarineusa.com

last re-power followup thread of mine .... with photos.

S

Post in thread 'R25c Repower - QSD to BetaMarine'

Dec 5, 2024

I am thinking the QDS had electronic throttle and shift. Did you need to add mechanical throttle and shift with one lever or did you split them?

the QSD has electronic throttle connection on the port side of engine and gearbox has cable shift ( ZF25A ) both are morse type cable from the helm however. No changes needed there. I did however replace both the throttle and shift cables with the repower as they were getting a little stiff.

• Seakr25

 

[Niels Hansen]

just returned from Florida with my 2009 ranger. I had been told it had a bad Yanmar 110hp diesel in it. I was surprised to say the least when I discovered it had a brand new never even started 150 hp VM Motori M500, a new transmission, a new exhaust system and all new batteries. it still has the build ticket with all its information from the engine plant in Italy ! not a bad buy for $8,900 There is a good possibility the engine compartment was flooded. I am going to pull the new engine and disassemble it to save the motor. Hence my post to you. It is already apparent it is shoehorned in there and will be difficult to remove. I can't even see the bolt for the left front motor mount. the wiring is a nightmare. Since you have already removed one of these VM engines, I have some questions for you if you don't mind. Because only one of the lifting ears are outside the cabin, I assume the engine has to be pulled toward the stern and the engine mounts have to be disconnected at the stringers. where is the best place to disconnect the prop shaft in order to slide it back for clearance. Is it even possible to remove the starter without pulling the motor? I know Detroit Diesel bought VM Motori in about 1995. You mentioned there is also a cummins connection. If I opt to keep this engine where do you go for parts ?

 

[Seakr25]

just returned from Florida with my 2009 ranger. I had been told it had a bad Yanmar 110hp diesel in it. I was surprised to say the least when I discovered it had a brand new never even started 150 hp VM Motori M500, a new transmission, a new exhaust system and all new batteries. it still has the build ticket with all its information from the engine plant in Italy ! not a bad buy for $8,900 There is a good possibility the engine compartment was flooded. I am going to pull the new engine and disassemble it to save the motor. Hence my post to you. It is already apparent it is shoehorned in there and will be difficult to remove. I can't even see the bolt for the left front motor mount. the wiring is a nightmare. Since you have already removed one of these VM engines, I have some questions for you if you don't mind. Because only one of the lifting ears are outside the cabin, I assume the engine has to be pulled toward the stern and the engine mounts have to be disconnected at the stringers. where is the best place to disconnect the prop shaft in order to slide it back for clearance. Is it even possible to remove the starter without pulling the motor? I know Detroit Diesel bought VM Motori in about 1995. You mentioned there is also a cummins connection. If I opt to keep this engine where do you go for parts ?

Disconnect prop shaft at the coupler and slide back as far as you can. You likely won’t get enough clearance to pull the tapered coupler off but if you can that might get an extra few inches … If you have the zf25a gearbox there is not much room. Unbolt mounts from stringers and slide engine towards stern and it will need to go tail end up out of compartment once you can hook both lift points. It’s a PITA ….. there is little to no clearance for anything. I don’t think could personally get the starter out with it in boat. I had a hard time just changing the raw water impeller. Cummins sold the engine with mercruiser hence the smart craft control screen but branded Cummins at boot up. Mercruiser still sells the diesels in a small capacity if you look online … but I’m sure the engine has changed a bit. You can source some parts through some dealers but last time I tried was a few years back …. And I had to find a lot of numbers myself as the serial I had didn’t always pull up in their system for searches. Not all parts however were available even if I found the numbers I needed , but I managed a timing belt, drive belt, filters, various seals, hoses, injector parts ,etc … so there is hope. There was a Detroit diesel place in Florida I got a lot of internal lower end parts ordered factory direct through but that was via a local shop with the hookup located here in Alaska. Most if not all the parts came right from Italy and I waited months … If I remember the name of the place I’ll post it but I was always working through a middle man. I have a partial or maybe full shop manual also… I will see if I can dig up the PDF tomorrow and send a link if I find it. My vm engine is sitting on a pallet in storage now just waiting for me to do something with it. Eventually I suppose but I’d like to enjoy the repower for a season of fishing first I suspect. Good luck in your project.

 

[BigSir]

just returned from Florida with my 2009 ranger. I had been told it had a bad Yanmar 110hp diesel in it. I was surprised to say the least when I discovered it had a brand new never even started 150 hp VM Motori M500, a new transmission, a new exhaust system and all new batteries. it still has the build ticket with all its information from the engine plant in Italy ! not a bad buy for $8,900 There is a good possibility the engine compartment was flooded. I am going to pull the new engine and disassemble it to save the motor. Hence my post to you. It is already apparent it is shoehorned in there and will be difficult to remove. I can't even see the bolt for the left front motor mount. the wiring is a nightmare. Since you have already removed one of these VM engines, I have some questions for you if you don't mind. Because only one of the lifting ears are outside the cabin, I assume the engine has to be pulled toward the stern and the engine mounts have to be disconnected at the stringers. where is the best place to disconnect the prop shaft in order to slide it back for clearance. Is it even possible to remove the starter without pulling the motor? I know Detroit Diesel bought VM Motori in about 1995. You mentioned there is also a cummins connection. If I opt to keep this engine where do you go for parts ?

I removed the Yanmar 4BY2 that originally came with the boat. I can’t help you because, due to disability, I hire mechanics. I can ask them any detailed questions you may have but I'm not sure they are relative to your situation.