installing Victron controller

Normf943

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2023
Messages
91
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Hull Identification Number
FMLC2837D919
Vessel Name
Grey Goose
I want to replace the stock solar panel controller with a viltron. You tube makes it look simple. However the stock controller has inputs for both battery (assuming the thruster is connected to the main) banks while the viltron has one input. I am told by others that because the boat has an ACR that the viltron will charge both banks starting with the house bank and then moving to the engine. The banks must in parallel which they are. However when the two bank inputs are disconnected from the existing controller how are they hooked up to the viltron which has inputs for one bank.

2019 c28
 
First, cover the solar panel with a thick blanket. Then pull the inline fuses at the house and engine bank near the batteries for the wires going to the Morningstar controller. These wires should be clearly labeled by the factory. Next disconnect all wires going to the Morningstar controller one at a time. Label each wire and cap them off.
Connect the wires from the house bank to the Victron Energy solar controller. Make those connections BEFORE you connect the wires coming in from the solar panel. Also, and this is CRITICAL, make sure you are connecting the positive house bank wire to the positive output connection on the controller and the negative to the negative. Failure to follow this order and crossing the house wires to the incorrect output terminals on the VE controller will fry the controller!
Once the VE controller is connected to the house bank wires, then connect the wires coming in from the solar panel to the VE controller. Remove the blanket on the solar panel and check the solar voltage using the using the VE app on your phone or iPad. It should be a positive voltage value in daylight. If zero voltage then double check to ensure you have the wires coming from the solar panel connected to the correct input points on the controller. Getting these wires crossed will not damage the VE controller. Reinstall the in line fuse for the house bank near the house battery. Leave the fuse out for the wires going from the engine bank to the solar controller. Leave those wires capped off and secured at the VE controller end.
Here’s the manual. Study pages 13 and 14.
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/do ... pdf-en.pdf

Here’s a great video by Martin on how he did it in his R-27:
https://youtu.be/2NAqsXN8BDk?si=uAKKB6UvffmbIzlJ
 
Normf943":1h2ptx07 said:
I want to replace the stock solar panel controller with a viltron. You tube makes it look simple. However the stock controller has inputs for both battery (assuming the thruster is connected to the main) banks while the viltron has one input. I am told by others that because the boat has an ACR that the viltron will charge both banks starting with the house bank and then moving to the engine. The banks must in parallel which they are. However when the two bank inputs are disconnected from the existing controller how are they hooked up to the viltron which has inputs for one bank.

2019 c28

Personally, I don't think it's necessary or a requirement that solar charge the engine battery, with one exception, trailering.

If the boat is stored on a trailer than having solar hit the house and engine battery keeps the two banks topped off as the boat rolls down the highway to it's next destination or sits stored on the trailer in a parking lot.

Out on the water, moored in a slip, I don't think it's necessary to have solar go anywhere but to the house bank. There shouldn't be any other loads on the engine battery other than the engine. It can sit idle for a month and maybe will lose 3% charge.
 
Good advice from glider4 on the installation. One added suggestion: Consider placing a small single pole on-off battery switch between the controller and the solar panel. I installed one right next to the controller. That is standard procedure on RVs (or so I was told by the professional who installed my Victron controllers on our Sprinter van). I added one when I installed the Victron controller on my Ranger Tug. It added convenience and safety.

Gini
 
Gini, good advice. I have a GLOSO E6 15 resettable breaker in my C-28 on the positive wire coming in from the solar panel right near the solar controller. Easy to turn the panel output on and off.
GLOSO E69 15A Mid Range Mini Manual Reset (T3) Circuit Breaker, Compact Midum IP66, Marine Auto Truck (15A) https://a.co/d/gjvyIrd

Here’s a Facebook thread with info and a photo of my finished C-28 install.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/cwboats/p ... tid=S66gvF
 
Gin":1yv0u7cg said:
Good advice from glider4 on the installation. One added suggestion: Consider placing a small single pole on-off battery switch between the controller and the solar panel. I installed one right next to the controller. That is standard procedure on RVs (or so I was told by the professional who installed my Victron controllers on our Sprinter van). I added one when I installed the Victron controller on my Ranger Tug. It added convenience and safety.

Gini

I did the same. Much easier than wrestling with a blanket in the wind.
 
You don’t need to charge both batteries if you have acrs. The acrs will close and the solar will hit all batteries.
 
Thanks Gavin. I believe that my boat has an acr. Does yours?
 
if you are doing upgrades to your controller and / or solar panels, make sure you take into account the increased amperage output of the charger (The Victron does up to 30A, I think the morning star or others are less). The wiring used from the solar controller to the battery bank is only 10AWG, with a 30a inline fuse, and can only handle a max of 30A overall. If you are using enough solar that your charger can convert it to 30a output, you'll be pressing your wiring to the max. I just upgraded my wiring from my solar controller to 6AWG and I'm also now using a 50A ANL type fuse/holder rather than an inline blade type, because I upgraded my solar controller to the 100v/50a victron because I have 600w of solar panels. I also disconnected the solar to engine/thruster battery connection and removed it since the ACRs will kick on from the house bank and charge the other batteries.
 
yes I have ACR's and wired my victron to the house batteries. I kept the same wire gauge as I installed a 340W panel on the roof and this kept the amps in spec for 12 volts.

important to also install a victron battery sense Bluetooth module on the batteries and connect it to the Victron network so the controller knows the volts at the batteries so charging matches the profile after cable losses.

pay careful attention to the charging profile required for your batteries. the universal power group batteries that the factory used to install take a high voltage profile to fully charge them.

also make sure to connect your batteries to the controller before connecting the solar panel. I installed a rated switch between the panel and the controller for future use.
 
Thanks Gavin. Appreciate you advice and wil follow it.
 
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