Interior teak

[pugtug613]

I have a question about the teak. I hate oil, so I do not want to oil my teak. I also do not want to use Sickens or things like that. What I would like to do is treat the teak like inside the head, the exterior walls and the table top. Obviously done at the factory. Has anyone tried to duplicate that coating? If I leave it alone, I know it will get stained and faded from the sun. I would like to protect the teak and be able to wash it down. The factory coating looks like a sprayed on poly of some sort. It has a sheen to it, but more importantly, the teak is sealed and washable. Any suggestions?

 

[Pearl]

I use Pledge Revitalizing Oil on all my interior teak. I decided to use this product after doing a search on Tugnuts.

 

[Captain Steve]

me too...on the Pledge product

 

[jroyle]

Had a guy apply two coats of interior varnish...looks great and zero maintenance.

 

[PhilR]

Pledge Revitalizing Oil for me....works great. My trusted advisor, Mike Rizzo, put me on to this product.

Phil

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

PugTug I'd suggest calling Ranger Tug in Kent to ask this question of Kenny or Andrew in Customer Service and or Richard in Parts. The phone number, if you don't have it, is 253-839-5213. For what it's worth we've also used the Pledge Rivalization Oil on the unsealed teak. We've had our R27 for 3 years and the interior wood looks great. We apply once a year, sometimes twice if we're boating year round.

 

[knotflying]

The interior finish is Minwax helmsman satin spar varnish

 

[nzfisher]

There are no surface build finishes that will stand up to extended exposure to ultra violet & suns rays. Given that you are talking about your boats interior and it is not excessively exposed to sun, a non porous surface finish that you can apply would be some sort of polyurethane. Since teak is an open pored wood, you will need to apply 3-4 thin coats sanding between each coat to get the finish you are looking for, a lot of work. If you are using semi gloss you must be careful to suspend the goo in the bottom of the can in the finish with extended stirring just prior to application. You also should not have applied any oil type finishes recently on the teak prior to applying poly to the teak. This could cause a problem in the curing of the poly. There are other finishes that are superior to ploy but nothing that you can apply relatively trouble free- toxic fumes, difficulty of application etc. If you were to apply multiple coats of the oil type finish, over a long period of time you would build up a surface finish, much like the Scandinavian wipe finished furniture. An alternate formula for this type of finish is 10% polyurethane, 30% tung oil, 60% linseed oil. This will produce this type of finish with many coats, again a lot of work of wipe on, let set, wipe off. You must burn or get rid of the wiping rags as they are prone to spontaneous burning. Given all of the above is why people use the pledge oil.

Good luck

 

[pugtug613]

Just as an update: I have been experimenting with a "hand rubbed" finish. I used Epithane Varnish and cheese cloth to rub it in.
1) Lightly sand surface with 240 - 400 paper, depending on the condition.
2) Once uniform in color, brush off the dust and follow up with a tack cloth. (I tack it off 2 times)
3) With a glove on and a small piece of cheese cloth, (shake vigorously to eliminate fuzz) (in a different area from the work) dip the cloth in a tray of a small amount of varnish and wipe with the grain.
4) I put 3 coats and decided to put 2 more coats.
I only did a small area so far, but I like it. It will be time consuming, but I enjoy that stuff. It must be therapeutic for me?

If I can figure out how to attach a photo, I will post some pictures.

Chester

 

[Bruce Moore]

If I can figure out how to attach a photo, I will post some pictures.

Chester

Hi Chester - I sent you a PM with information on posting photos.

Cheers,

Bruce