Inverter/charger and the Solar panel charge

[Double boast crew]

Hi,
This is year two of owning a R27. Last year we had many electrical mishaps, probably from not totally understanding how all these gadgets work together. Still are not clear on how the inverter/charger connects ( if at all) to the charging of the solar panels. Along with this question, can someone tell us how to actually read the Morningstar remote meter? Especially as it relates to solar power strength? Should the inverter button in the stern be "on" in order for the solar panels to charge? Should the inverter be off when under way? Finally, does anyone else worry about water getting into the stern and ruining the inverter? Tis happened to us last year and we needed to replace both the inverter and the alternator.
Really looking forward to understanding this better this summer ! Thanks for any and all advice
Katie

 

[knotflying]

The solar panel has a controller that should be in either the battery compartment or genset compartment. This should have a green blinking light showing the status of the charge. If it is red you have an issue. The controller has dip switch settings for battery type and charge percentages to your house and engine batteries. These are usually set for 90% charge for the house 20% to engine battery.
The Morningstar has several "steps" . By pressing the button (not the arrows) it gives you info at each step and also on each battery bank the first step is the solar panel amount of charge, then battery compartment temperature, amp hours charged over time and current amp hour charge. Then battery one condition of charge, then how many volts minimum your battery was and then the max volts and then how many amp hours used. You get each of these tidbits of information by pressing the arrow buttons. Press both arrows together and It will clear all info and start a new history.
Don't feel bad that you don't know this stuff because the manual is pretty vague and when I called Morningstar even the tech was confused.
If you have a red light you need to reset your controller : a) remove fuses on leads going to batteries, b) remove power line coming from solar panel to controller ( I installed a 30 amp inline fuse to make this easier and be careful because this wire is live) c) reinstall power line, then each of the fuses to the batteries. This should now have reset the controller.
The solar charging system has nothing to do with your inverter.
Not sure of your inverter charger setup, but on my R-27 they are in one unit so the inverter switch in the battery box needs to be on for your charger to charge the batteries while on shore power or if you want to use your inverter for 110v while on the hook or underway.
Your inverter should not be on unless you want to use it. The rocker switch in the cabin for the inverter is , up while on shore power, middle off, down for 110v while on the hook and off shore power.
I have concerns also about the inverter placement and water, but so far no issues. I moved my solar controller for that very reason.
If you want more detailed info feel free to call me. PM me and I will give you my cell number.
Mike Rizzo

 

[Double boast crew]

Thanks Mike!
This is very helpful. We are off to the boat this morning and will find the Solar Panel controller. Not sure we even knew to look for that! We are currently docked and not using shore power. Because I was confused on how the inverter interacted with the solar panels, I flipped the stern button on the inverter "on" yesterday, but the rocker switch near the helm is in the "off"" position. Am I right in thinking this has done nothing for anything? We would love to call you as clearly we have a few niggling questions....let me know how I PM you.
Thanks,
Katie

 

[knotflying]

You just hit the PM on the right hand side of my reply post to send a PM.
You are correct, having the stern inverter switch on and the rocker switch in off position did not power anything. I made a math error on the charging percentages the engine will be at 10%. The other option is 50/50. IMO 90/10 is appropriate for being on the hook or no shore power.
After reading my explanations the manual may make sense. If you have no manual they are on line.
Also, on my boat, Ranger had the house as #2 and engine as #1 on the analog meter. On the remote meter for the Morningstar it was reverse #1 is house and#2 is engine. I was confused as to why I was getting different readings between them until I investigated further, so you may want to check yours out. I mounted placards at each location to remind me which is which.

 

[walldog]

Andrew had me switch the wires to the solar controller so that the readings on it matched the analog meter. #1 is the same battery in each location.

 

[knotflying]

Yes, you can do that also, but my leads were too short so I opted for the label route.

 

[Todd]

Switching the wires on the solar controller is ok if you are set to 50/50 charge. 90/10 will put 90% to starting and 10% to the house batteries. Better to use the label route.

 

[walldog]

Andrew told me that it was hooked up incorrectly when he told me to change them. I do not remember discussing the difference in charge rates, but I had been having trouble keeping the house batteries charged on anchor.

 

[Capt. Wanabe]

Thanks for posting this thread as I have had the identical issues with my boat. I down-loaded the manual from Morningstar and put it on my iPad as I keep having to refer to it even after I think I have it memorized. It was helpful for me to remember to look at the icons on the remote meter so as to be clear on whether the numbers I was seeing were Solar output, load, bat 1 or bat 2. Also, Andrew confirmed my suspicion that the solar charger is always ON. It also does not directly charge the thruster battery but may do so through the ACR's although I have not been able to show that this really happens.

I think getting an accurate wiring diagram for the charger/inverter set-up from the factory for your boat is crucial as it seems the scheme has changed significantly even within the model-year.

Most importantly I agree with the observation that the charger/inverter is at risk for corrosion and failure as this is what ours did when it failed and we have not used the boat that much. I'm not even sure where the water came from but there was very noticeable corrosion around the RJ remote connector and fan assembly. I am still trying to design a plastic cowling or something to keep the water away from the electronics. I don't even think it is a direct splash but more of a condensation in the compartment. I was even wondering if the condensation/corrosion was aggravated by the antifreeze in the same compartment as I tasted the condensate on the compartment walls and it didn't seem like plain old seawater. Andrew, bless his soul, was very patient in getting the problem resolved but part of the resolution involved re-wiring the charge pathway from the generator/alt. and the shorepower input. I still need to get the updated schematic from Andrew so I know what is going on. If anyone figures out a good, easy way to protect the charger/inverter I would very interested in how it was done.
Frank

 

[knotflying]

Switching the wires on the solar controller is ok if you are set to 50/50 charge. 90/10 will put 90% to starting and 10% to the house batteries. Better to use the label route.

You don't switch the controller wires you switch the meter wires for the analog meter.