Inverter/Charger-Engine Hatch-Bilge Pump Switch-120v Meter

[jpdewitt]

We are negotiating to purchase a 2012 R29 S Hull ID #FMLT2927A212. We have a couple of questions for you.

Vessel is equipped with a ProMariner True Power Combi Model QS2412 inverter/charger SN: 42412111100066
Surveyor noted in his critical recommendations the following:
"Install a case ground wire to the 12v battery charger/inverter as recommended in section A-31.6.5.1 of of the ABYC standard...." I researched the Tugnuts forums and could not find any information regarding this issue. Would appreciate your advice as to if the inverter/charger's circuitry already addresses this issue and if not how difficult it would be to install the case ground wire as recommended by the surveyor?

Engine Hatch: The engine hatch is secured by four hinges. On this vessel one (one nearest the lifting ram) has come completely loose (completely pulled out of the fiberglass deck bedding) and two others are loose/bent. Again, I researched Tugnuts and only found posts related to the lifting ram. The one hinge needs replacement and the others need to be tightened. My question is, has this issue presented before and your recommendations to fix? I don't want the hinges replaced only to find the ram needs to be adjusted and is causing the problem.

Bilge pump switches: If you put these switches in the on position the bilge pumps continuously run. Should the bilge pump switches be left in the off position? Need a tutorial on this please.

The 120v meter is not reading voltage for shore power or generator. On the DC panel there is a switch labeled AC volt Meter. We turned it on/off and no effect on the 120v readout. Is there something we are missing or do we possibly have a defective 120v meter?

Your feedback is appreciated.
John & Della DeWitt
832 541 7569

 

[jpdewitt]

Here is the answer from Promariner tech support regarding case ground wire for inverter/charger. BTW -- Great tech support -- received reply in less than an hour. 😀

There is a large case ground stud located on the end of the Combi where the DC wires connect to the unit. Just connect a wire, no smaller than one AWG gauge less than the DC input wires, from that stud to your boat ground/earth ground as shown on page 22 of the owner’s manual.

Seems the fix is fairly simple. A bit surprised that if ABYC standards require the ground wire why it was not installed at the factory.

Bluesea website also provides generic info about grounding inverter/chargers: https://www.bluesea.com/support/art...Protection_for_Inverters_and_Battery_Chargers

I am new to this forum. Not sure how to post pic but will try to post wiring diagram to my album FYI.

 

[knotflying]

The bilge pumps have two circuits. One manual, which is the switch you are turning on. It should be in the off position and only used if you want to pump water out that is lower than the sensor or if the sensor is inoperative. The other circuit is always on and connects to the sensor. Once water is high enough the sensor detects it and should turn the pump on. There is a separate fuse for this and it is an in line usually near the battery switches or it may be in a fuse panel located somewhere in the boat. The location could vary depending on who wired the boat and when.

 

[jpdewitt]

knotflying, thanks for the timely and informative feedback on RT bilge pump operation.

 

[BB marine]

download/file.php?id=147

The link above shores the schematic of the inverter. It illustrates a 1/O yellow ground cable going to the terminal block. Why there isn't one there is good question. Cudo's to the surveyor for finding the issue.


download/file.php?id=149

The link above shows the auto switch powered separately from the manual switch. Using this drawing along with Mikes explanation will show you how the auto bilge pump operates. It is a good Idea to periodically test the auto switch to confirm it is operational.


If the AC120V selector switch is in the shore power position the analog volt gauge (meter) should show voltage if plugged in to shore power. If it doesn't and there is 120V power on board to power Microwave, outlets, hot water heater.... I would suspect a bad Voltmeter or improper connection to the meter. This would be a simple troubleshoot.

Without seeing the failed hinge and anchor points it is hard to speculate what was the cause of the failure. I would add backing support to the area where the fasteners pulled out and replace the bent hinges. I would guess that the highest stress point is the hinge closest to the ram. It probably loosened. The previous owner did not tighten it and it loosened more and started to pull out has the hatch was raised putting a bind on the other hinges. Causing them to bend and fail.

 

[jpdewitt]

Brian thanks for your feedback.