Is there a tee shirt for this?

[Osprey]

This post is about thruster shear pin replacement on an R27 which has been in use since late 2011. Approaching the dock at the end of a 2 week trip the brass shear pin for the front thruster failed. The failure was simply due to normal “wear and tear”. The next day I pulled the thruster and replaced the pin. I was pleased to find that the job was easy to do. Keeping “easy” in mind I then thought that if the front pin failed could the rear pin be in need of replacement? Cannot be that hard I thought, so I better attend to the rear pin. Now I know why there have been many posts that indicated that “easy’ does not apply for the rear thruster. The found that the “how to” comments in these posts most useful – thanks Knotflying, doke01 and others. I have a printout of a 2016 post which has an image of Knotflying sitting in the propane locker. He does not look happy. I can now fully understand why!
And yes, the rear pin was ready to fail. How long have the thrusts on your tug been in service? What is the expected service life for these brass pins? For replacement I used the now available steel pins. Steel pins are common for outboard motors. Over the about 60 years of my boating experience I have replaced a few outboard steel pins. Replacement was always due to the propeller hitting something, not due to “spontaneous” failure.

 

[BradOwens]

I feel your pain! Last year I replaced the pin on the stern thruster on my R29 classic. I'm 6'5" and 200 lbs. Getting into that space was a nightmare.

 

[PanaSeaAh]

Having just replaced both shear pins in my 2009 R 25, may I suggest that a Gold Medal with distinguished service ribbon would be more appropriate than a Tee Shirt! 😛
Nothing hit or ingested, just the brass pins worn to a sharp edge and then one failed. If I may suggest a trick to get the rear thruster motor back in: a piece of 2 by 6 placed under the motor, and another tapered piece of wood (about the shape of the old tapered door stops) to use on top of the 2 x 6 to adjust the height of the motor while you try many times to start the hex head bolt. Also, since you can only get two hands in the stern opening, (and you need three hands to drive in the new pin if you leave the wiring connected and do it in the hold) try using a pair of water pump pliers (channelocks) with one jaw on the shaft and the other on the flat end of the new pin to push it into the shaft hole. Note: the 2 x 6 support piece was cut too long to get out, so there it stays.

 

[Red Raven]

First time, left the power and control cable connected. Awful trying to get the spring ring out, old pin junk out, new pin in and spring clip back in, all in such a tight space! Second time disconnected Power and control cable to do the rest up in the cockpit. Easy peasy (for that part at least!). Next time, I’m going with the stainless pin!

Curt