Just got my first boat, 2013 R29, looking to talk about it

On the port side, the after thru hull is for the air conditioners it provides water to both. The forward is the intake to the generator.

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
Thanks all. Could you tell me why I have two AC hookups to shore power and why I would ever choose one or the other (or both together)?


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Hi
One receptacle is for the Air-conditioners only the other is everything else.
 
You’re missing a copla bets and here they are: One is the power of the ‘Nuts and the second is the power of Ranger Tugs, so rather than posting questions as you go, learn to use the search function on the ‘Nuts, I’m in my 60s and figured it out so you can too.

As for the power of the ‘Nuts I currently can't get power to my Yanmar display so I put in “No power to Yanmar display” and got 1.2 billion hits as the search brings up every thread ever to use any of the words you put in. So I went back at it by putting in “i5601E” which is the label on the display and got 18 hits the very very first one was my exact problem, no power and about a dozen good folks posted what they did, successfully or unsuccessfully about that exact problem. So I get to go back at it today with renewed hope and vigor both to evaporate by noon I figure.

As for the power of Ranger Tugs: The charger/inverter quit so I looked that up on the ‘Nuts and found out there’s no self repair so I whined to Andrew who told me there’s no self repair and to contact the manufacturer so I did so and they said hold on, we’ll get you our Ranger Tug guy and he said Yeah, send it back and if it’s repairable we’ll do that for free we like Ranger Tugs. Yanmar did the same on free recall parts for me because they like Ranger Tugs. Point is, anywhere you go in the boating industry be sure to lead with “Yeah, I’m working on my Ranger Tug” and watch the doors open because organizations are empowered to help because Ranger Tugs is so well liked and admired.

This journey you’ve begun is challenging and can be difficult and you want to avoid any more difficulty than your going to face anyway. Face the challenges by operating every system on the boat while holding the manual in hand. Wait till dark, grab a flashlight and peer deep deep into every nook and cranny while praying you never never have to go there knowing you surely surely will. Say Hello and See You Soon to the backside of your raw water pump, the engine zincs and belts, the oil filter canister and each and every fuel filter and water strainer and tru hull, etc. they are your new best friends! Begin the challenge of maintenance by doing some secure in the knowledge you’re saving yourself over $100 an hour. Research said maintenance on the ‘Nuts for the tricks and tools that are helpful and the difficulties you’ll face at each task.

You’re currently headed into the bilge as am I to repair the bilge pump. Me, I’m going to replace my remote float pump with a built in float pump and I also bought a spare. And before I install it I'm going to connect a hose to the discharge and gently flow it while estimating if there’s any clogs, the one way valve you see in line tend to do that.

If in Boating you get on board and go from A to B without anything happening well that’s Fun but you never never never get to go from A to B without something happening (eventually something is going to happen while your sitting on the trailer or in the slip) and I believe overcoming that something time and time again is what draws us Boaters to Boating and keeps us Boating,
 
Any tricks for making the forced air heating system quieter? The vent in the main cabin is particularly loud. Also, is it normal for that system to take a long time to reach target room temp? It’s 43 degrees outside and I’m still not up to my set temp or 70 degrees after running for four hours (I’m up to 63).

Any recommendations on a replacement microwave? Can it be any microwave as long as it’s the right dimensions or does it need to be a special marine microwave or anything like that?

Do you all get special sheets and blankets for your beds onboard that are fitted to the unusually shapes and sizes or do you just use regular household stuff? Any recommendations on a set?

Does the remote for your onboard stereo have a balance feature? Two of my zones only have sound on one side. The wall unit controls don’t seem to have balance and the previous owner didn’t provide me with a remote. If remote has features that the wall units don’t, then I may try to get a new remote.

Any idea why I get a “no media device connected” when I try to hook up my iPhone 10s to the TV USB port? Maybe newer smart phones aren’t supported. I don’t see a way to upgrade software on the TVs (TVs are Majestic brand)




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Jim and Jackie":1lbgs5x4 said:
On the port side, the after thru hull is for the air conditioners it provides water to both. The forward is the intake to the generator.

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie

What happens if you run the AC/Heat system without the correct seacock open? I inadvertantly did that for several hours. Does it affect the performance (i.e. would it make the system produce less heat to warm the boat?)?
 
It should have overheated. Your thru hulls may be different than on my 2010. Did you check to see if the was a dual stream of water on the port side?

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessue
 
Is there an outlet anywhere inside the engine compartment where I can hook up a little heater for winterization? If not, what's the best way to rig something up? I'm planning to use the boat year round (in Chesapeake Bay) but will partially winterize between visits to the boat.
 
Hi John
Lots of new things for you to figure out.

I have had my furnace run for a few hours with no water ( didn't prime it'self ) still is fine.. Depending on the temperature out side it sometimes takes a bit, but once warmed up it should hold it fine. It is noisier then a house as everything is so close... Make sure you have water flowing out through the hull when the furnace is on.

We just use queen sheets. They are a tight fit but get the job done.

I do not know of a hand held remote for the fusion stereo but mine is a 2011 so perhaps there is one for yours being newer.. Check the model of the head unit on the Fusion site and see... There will be no balance on it. Check your head unit that all the wires are plugged in all the way in the back. Sounds like there is a speaker wire disconnected.. Use radio mode while checking so you know it is not an input cable. That could be what is causing your one side not to work.

The USB on the TV is pretty basic. It will allow you to view pictures but the iPhone and any videos a stick is not supported. It does output low voltage power for accessories . I have a dual bluetooth output splitter that needs power and I plug it into the USB so it provides power while the TV is on.

I found on my boat there was a wire run from the panel to the rear of the boat by the batteries for power to an optional electric BBQ. I connected an out door GFI receptacle to it and connected the wire in the panel and that provided power in my rear storage.. You could have it in the engine room but I would keep it in the back storage for other uses as well.
 
Thanks. I have something strange going on with my electrical system. I've had my charger running off shore power all day and house battery bay is only at 9.5 volts on the volt meter. Is that a sign of unhealthy batteries? I think they are five years old. Also, I can run little stuff like a light or a TV ... but when I try to run too many things or something that draws more power like the forced air heat or the water pressure motor ... it trips either the AC main switch inside my transom cabinet or it trips the switch of the individual appliance (i.e. ac/heat switch).
 
I would check the connections on your batterys first.. If you can move anything with your hand it is not tight enough, if it moves remove clean and re connect.. I still have my original batteries and I have a 2011.. But with the Shore power connected you should show 14 volts.. Check and make sure the charges is working.. If it is the inverter charge there is a reset on top. If you have two cables running to the boat the one is just powering the furnace it should be tripping with other stuff on.. If you are using a splitter and only one cable going to the boat it might. The Charger could be using a lot of power if in fact there is a bad battery and it is just running full on charge. You should be getting more voltage then that showing if the charger is sending power to the battery.. Start with the battery connections make sure all are tight. Also make sure all the battery switches are turned to all.
 
Just sent you a PM about your R29.

Bob
 
Any idea what could make my CO detector in v-birth stop working? The lights don't come on and hitting the test button doesn't do anything. Already tried replacing the battery but that didn't fix it. Does the unit also have a hard wire connection? Does it require any particular switch on main electrical panel to be on?
 
John,
On my boat, there are two wires in the cabinet behind the CO detector that can be dislodged if you are working in that cabinet. I would check those connections.
 
We have a 2011 29S, based in Little Creek, Norfolk. Learned a lot in the last year or so. Glad to swap info! Also, I am updating my CO detectors to Xintex CMD5-MB. Average life is 5-7 years. The new ones use same mounting holes. Cheap insurance! Considering adding the optional relay that shuts the genset down if CO levels get too high.
 
My reverse cycle heat sure works a lot better now that I know to turn on the "air relay" switch with it. And I now see water flowing out of port side of boat.

I see that the reason my CO detector wasn't lit up was that a wire inside the unit was disconnected. Also realize that the unit is in End OF Life mode (which could be why previous owner may have disconnected that wire to get rid of alarm sound). I'll just have to order new unit. The units have an end date printed on a sticker that tells you when it will stop working.

Question on battery / charger setup. When I arrived at the boat today (its in a slip on shore power). My battery meter showed the following for banks 1 (house), 2 and 3 respectively: 11.2 volts, 10.4 volts, 12.6 volts. Are those healthy levels? I'm on shore power with charger remote panel set to shore power and on the charger unit itself the lights indicate "ready" not "charging". If I use cabin lights, tv, fridge etc for a few hours the voltage on bank 1 goes down significantly (8.2 volts right now) even though I'm on shore power and I think I'm in the proper charging mode. One thing I haven't checked yet is water in batteries - not immediately obvious to me where the opening is for that on these batteries. But regardless of battery health, shouldn't volt meter show consistent higher voltage while charger is on?

Thanks.
 
Your batteries should read well above 13 volts when charging unless coming from a signIficantly discharged state. If they have been under charge for several days and read these voltages they likely need to be replaced. Before replacing, check the voltage at the battery terminals with a volt meter. If different than at the panel pull the connectors and clean them thoroughly. If still low then pull them and have them tested at an auto parts store. Your charger should be indicating charging at these voltages. On my boat there is a breaker on the AC panel to turn the charger on. Don’t know the setup on yours.

Without a load and not under charge they should roughly be between 12v (50% State of Charge [SOC]) and 12.8V (100% SOC).

Curt
 
Thanks Curt. Do you think the type of battery that would have come with the 2013 R29 are the type that you have to add water to?
 
The batteries may be AGM and do not require maintenance.. Did you check yet if the connections on the battery are tight?
Also with your tester you should be getting around 14.5 volts at the battery with the charger running. It sounds like the batteries are not being charged.. I would try to find out why it is not charging so you do not totally kill the batteries.
 
vt97john":nqao2kva said:
Thanks Curt. Do you think the type of battery that would have come with the 2013 R29 are the type that you have to add water to?

Its easy to tell. If the batteries don’t have covers/caps that you can pop off to put water in the cells then they are sealed and likely AGMs. The AGMs are an option for all years of production as far as I know so you can’t tell by the build year for the boat.
 
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