Just got my first boat, 2013 R29, looking to talk about it

It looks like the charger is not charging the batteries (on shore power.) Built in volt meter and hand-held voltmeter both show the batteries don't get to 12V unless I run my engine. However, when I run the engine I can see that the batteries are getting charged just fine. I don't see any issues with the indicator lights on the charger. Any ideas what to test in terms of the charger or its connection to the batteries?

Question on engine running at idle: Are the following readings good?

RPM: 670
Oil Pressure: 19 psi
Coolant: 148 degrees F ah
 
Problem solved on the charger. I neglected to turn on the "inverter" switch in the port side cockpit compartment (i.e. the same panel where you can turn on "house" etc). I assumed that switch was just for the inverter function but its also needed for charging function while on shore power.

Still could use feedback on the engine readings above.

Thanks.
 
vt97john":28hv2ayt said:
It looks like the charger is not charging the batteries (on shore power.) Built in volt meter and hand-held voltmeter both show the batteries don't get to 12V unless I run my engine. However, when I run the engine I can see that the batteries are getting charged just fine. I don't see any issues with the indicator lights on the charger. Any ideas what to test in terms of the charger or its connection to the batteries?

Question on engine running at idle: Are the following readings good?

RPM: 670
Oil Pressure: 19 psi
Coolant: 148 degrees F ah

Hi John!
Took delivery of my new 2011 R29 last week. Those numbers look like mine. The oil pressure will start out higher then fall down as the oil gets hot. Do you know how many hours are on the oil? My oil pressure is a little higher... in the 30s I think. But it is fresh oil with only a couple of hours because the boat was winterized. I did buy the boat in Maine.
 
do you have a fuse diagram/key? Mine is on the boat 90 miles away on the hard, or I'd scan it in. You should have one in your bag. If not, get one from the factory. those bilge fuses are in the "cave" upper left above the panel. they go out. mine did. order a fuse set from amazon of varying sizes.

i test my bilge pump with hose filling the bilge. those Johnson Control electromagnetic float switches suck IMHO. I went through three in one year on my RT25. they have not taken my hint to switch to Ultra's.


-most probably: chances are the fuse blew.
-second most probable: bad float switch: hard not to replace it with another johnson controls one as in is a pain in the rear to do anything else
-possible: factory hooked up the wiring backwards. turn the bilge pump on manually if it shuts off when the water level goes down, then they hooked it up backwards. it should stay on until you turn it off

and, ALWAYS check all the seacocks anytime you muck about in the engine compartment. yours truly was cleaning up the bilge and checking things out and accidently shut off the engine intake...... luckily my pre-cruise check list is to check that the boat is "peeing" and monitoring the engine temp..........
 
Congrats Bob! Sea shanty looked like a great boat online. Does it have two fuel tanks or one? I found the problem with my auto bilge. Someone had disconnected a battery cable.
 
vt97john":29ylsv03 said:
Congrats Bob! Sea shanty looked like a great boat online. Does it have two fuel tanks or one? I found the problem with my auto bilge. Someone had disconnected a battery cable.

Thanks John and Merry Christmas! I do have two tanks. Transfer valve and switch are above the genset. I plan on transferring unused fuel from genset tank to the main tank at each fill up to keep the fuel fresh. I’ve been spending lots of time getting Sea Shanty into cruising shape. We leave for the Keys and Western FL mid-Jan. New water heater, cleaning battery terminals, installing a GARMIN AIS 600, replacing all bulbs with LEDs, cleaning the engine and lazzerette spaces. Next is a water leak at the connections behind the shower mixing valve and I need to pull the stove to fix a hinge issue. 😀 . Have you joined the Tugnuts FB group? Lots of good info there as well. Less technical stuff but also a good source I have found. We will learn about our new boats together 😀
 
Check out the blog of Andiamo. Lots of good info about systems
Rich Hurst
Feisty Too
 
fishheadbarandgrill":13bt7wfa said:
vt97john":13bt7wfa said:
Congrats Bob! Sea shanty looked like a great boat online. Does it have two fuel tanks or one? I found the problem with my auto bilge. Someone had disconnected a battery cable.

Thanks John and Merry Christmas! I do have two tanks. Transfer valve and switch are above the genset. I plan on transferring unused fuel from genset tank to the main tank at each fill up to keep the fuel fresh. I’ve been spending lots of time getting Sea Shanty into cruising shape. We leave for the Keys and Western FL mid-Jan. New water heater, cleaning battery terminals, installing a GARMIN AIS 600, replacing all bulbs with LEDs, cleaning the engine and lazzerette spaces. Next is a water leak at the connections behind the shower mixing valve and I need to pull the stove to fix a hinge issue. 😀 . Have you joined the Tugnuts FB group? Lots of good info there as well. Less technical stuff but also a good source I have found. We will learn about our new boats together 😀

Thanks Bob! I just sent a request to join that Facebook group. Where on your boat does the auxiliary tank get filled from? And can you see the tank somewhere? Is there a fuel gauge for each tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
vt97john":17er8066 said:
fishheadbarandgrill":17er8066 said:
vt97john":17er8066 said:
Congrats Bob! Sea shanty looked like a great boat online. Does it have two fuel tanks or one? I found the problem with my auto bilge. Someone had disconnected a battery cable.

Thanks Bob! I just sent a request to join that Facebook group. Where on your boat does the auxiliary tank get filled from? And can you see the tank somewhere? Is there a fuel gauge for each tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The aux tank has a fill port on the transom. The tank is fully visible in the engine compartment centerline. I’m not sure if the tanks is gauged. Haven’t got that far. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s not since you can clearly see the fuel level.
 
I have tried to update my Garmin GPSMap 5215 with the latest map data, but I'm not sure if I was successful or not. Could anyone tell me whether I have the latest versions? Here's the built-in map I have loaded on the unit: US Marine Detail g2 v2012 13.50 (obviously the v2012 part of that seems to indicate I'm outdated, but I don't know if they increment that year number with updates or just the "13.5" part).

Also, I think I need to update the software version too. I'm at Software Version: 7.40. Currently trying to figure out how to do this without a Windows PC (I have a Mac).
 
vt97john":3kjjvq42 said:
I have tried to update my Garmin GPSMap 5215 with the latest map data, but I'm not sure if I was successful or not. Could anyone tell me whether I have the latest versions? Here's the built-in map I have loaded on the unit: US Marine Detail g2 v2012 13.50 (obviously the v2012 part of that seems to indicate I'm outdated, but I don't know if they increment that year number with updates or just the "13.5" part).

Also, I think I need to update the software version too. I'm at Software Version: 7.40. Currently trying to figure out how to do this without a Windows PC (I have a Mac).

John,
I just downloaded an the US Marine g2 chart so I'll check it tomorrow when I'm on the boat. As far as downloading the latest firmware for the 5215 (v7.80), if you don't have a windows OS machine, you may need to go to a friends house to do the download.
 
How important is it to close the seacocks when leaving the boat for a period of days? I'm in the central Chesapeake Bay and using the boat year round. I often leave the boat unoccupied in the marina slip for days at a time (including winter). Is it a big risk to leave sea cocks open? It would be nice and convenient to leave them open.
 
It is good seamanship to close the seacocks when you leave the boat. Most boats that sink do so at the dock due to open seacocks and a hose fails.
 
We keep our boat on a lift so I end up shutting them prior to raising the boat out of the water to prevent losing prime on the pumps, but when on a trip, I also shut the seacocks not in use when we pull in for the night even though we will stay on the boat. I do this for several reasons: (1) it's cheap insurance, (2) it reminds me to check out the engine compartment post-operation to make sure there are no issues in there that might go undetected/fixed until the next pre-underway inspection, (3) I am going to shut the seacocks to do pre-underway checks before heading out again anyway and (4) it's good to exercise the seacock valves frequently to ensure they can be operated easily if needed to isolate a hose rupture.
 
I would have no problem running my reverse cycle heat in between visits. All other sea cocks closed. If your not going to run your reverse cycle, then close the sea cock but find another way to keep the interior warm.
 
Anyone have any ideas for getting sheets for the 2 births on a 29' RT without spending the $350-$800 that I'm seeing on yacht bedding.com and boatique.com? Do some people just use regular home sheets and sort of fold them or something?
 
Yes we use regular bedding. We make do. Crazy prices for custom.
 
We bought sheets called “Jersey Sheets” from Fred Meyers in Seattle. We have individual ones for each bed cushion then one each to cover Lisa and myself.

Jim F
 
How about cutting a regular sheet to fit the berth then have the cut edges sewn on a sewing machine. The admiral of my boat cut and sewed the top cover for our v-berth, fairly easy to do.
 
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