Kayak on the roof

PhilR

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
416
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
TUGALONG
I recently purchased a 12', 43 lb. kayak that I plan to carry on top of the cabin. It is 33" wide at it's widest point. My boat is in winter storage and not accessible to me until I remove it in the spring, and I'm hoping that it will fit on the rack along side the solar panel. I would appreciate input from the folks who carry a kayak on top re: the pros and cons.
Thanks.

Phil
 
There is no problem putting sea kayaks on the roof racks. There is plenty of room on either side of the solar panel. There are two hassles to deal with. First, the tubing on the roof racks is small and curved, making it tough to secure kayaks so that they don't slide off (it is clear that kayakers did not design this element of the tug). We use the Mako Aero Saddles by Yakima. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. But that slick, narrow diameter tubing means that the saddles will turn over occasionally when hucking the kayak up there. The second hassle that everyone grapples with is getting the kayak up there. There are lots of clever and somewhat expensive rigs that you can find on this site. I have just found that it is easiest (and cheapest) to just haul the boats over the bow and slide them onto the saddles, taking care not to scratch the brim.

We use our tug as our "kayak support vessel" all the time, opening up great new places to paddle. Enjoy!

Jeff
 
Use 7/8" I.D. pipe wrap that you can find at Home Depot plumbing dept. I see from the recent boat show even the Ranger folks used it on one of the Tugs. It works amazingly well and looks good at the same time. Costs ~$7.00 for 6 ft length. It adheres to itself not to the railing so you don't have any cleanup when you want to put new ones on. Mine have been on for about 7 months...still like new. I replaced my Mako Saddles with this. Eliminates the saddles and the issues with them turning on the stainless.
Cheers!
Don
 
By pipe wrap, do you mean the insulating foam wrap around? Or something else? Any pics to post?

I take it that, once wrapped, you set the kayak directly on the wrap, and strapped it down, rather than use Mako or similar saddles or mounts. Not sure that would work with our kayaks, which have steeper chines than round-hulled recreational kayaks. On the other hand, I wonder if the bracket/mounts saddles would go around the pipe wrap and have better grip without slipping. We hope to put a couple of our shorter kayaks up on our Ranger (when we get one 😉 ). But hoisting them them up on top seems like a challenge, even though our kayaks are lighter than many (perhaps something about being on the shorter side and not as young as we once were has a bit to do with the challenge of hoisting them up these days).

Gini
 
My wife and I used a pair of 12'/40# kayaks on the Desolation sound cruise last summer. We used pipe wrap on the rack and simple rope attached to the bow and stern to hoist the boat to the top. We are 60ish and had no problem with the lift in calm water. I wouldn't want to try it with any kind of sea running. Pipe wrap will need to be replaced periodically as it is not very durable. Kayaks were stable on top. We are happy enough with that system we are not tempted to spend more.
Frank
 
Yes the pipe wrap is the black insulating foam type. Got the idea on Desolation Cruise from My Precious. Frank claimed it worked real well and as soon as we got back we traded the Yakima saddles for pipe wrap...it works just as claimed. Much more stable and secure. I would not use the saddles WITH the pipe wrap. Once it's strapped down, be sure to also tie down the bow and stern back to the rails and you are good to go!

Cheers
Don
 
Thanks for all the good suggestions. I will try the pipe insulation first in hopes that the kayak can go on the rack upside down without hitting the bimini or the front roof. If that doesn't work, I'll go with the Yakima saddles. Can't wait for winter to begone!

Phil
 
I have a single Kayak mounted on the rack next to the solar panel on my R-25.

It is to heavy for me to lift in place on the water - when at dock, I can sort of get it stored with some struggle.

There is no room to go higher with a fixed crane - I already clear a fixed bridge only about 11 hours per tide cycle with my mast removed, and anchor light remounted.

Has anyone used a side mounting device for the kayak - ideally something I could attach through the scuppers and lift the kayak into its storage area on the port side of the boat.

I always go starboard-to, so minor obstruction to port is OK.

Thank you.
 
Friends of ours have a set of side mounted U brackets that attach to standard rails for their kayak. It folds back against the rail when not in use to minimize the extra boat width. Let me know if you are interested by PM and I will get the mfg info from them.

I question, however, if a side mount will help solve your problem. I have found that the biggest issue to bringing our (two person 18' long inflatable 45 lb) kayak up is not the weight but the awkwardness (leverage arm) to lift the kayak out away from the boat to get it up along side. We have had some success by flipping (rolling) the kayak on its way up to reduce the leverage arm and keeping it close to the tug sides. With side brackets this problem will only be increased. Some sort of side mounted winch with an arm would be required in my opinion. When I have had to mount the kayak single handed this is what I found works best: First, fold down the burgee mast so you have an unobstructed rail on the bow. Pull one end of the kayak up on the bow rail and then hoist the kayak up across the rails. If there is any water in the kayak dump it first by rolling it upside down. Once up with the burgee staff down you can relatively easily rotate the kayak in line with the tug and slide it up onto the tug rack/tubing (with pipe wrap applied for easier rolling). Then, of course, you still need to climb on the roof to strap it down. Once I figured out this system, while not perfect, I decided the other options were not worth the cost and effort. We still hoist over the side with a full flip if another person is available to lift at the stern (with the Bimini unzipped and folded back).
 
I built a rack using PVC and stainless clamps for attachment to the chrome rails (cheap) for a 2 man inflatable Kayak (38lbs empty) but now I am going to try the foam. The obvious problem with all of this hand loading kayaks is it presupposes a windless day- which is another opportunity for Murphy to have his way with us.
 
Curt and Tracy,

Thanks for the comment. I have long ago removed the mast, radar, searchlight, and anchor light form the "Shearwater" - I just don't have the vertical clearance to get under a fixed railroad bridge with any of that in place. Remounted the radar where the mast was, put the anchor light on the smoke stack, and I'm happy.

I can lift, just, the kayak over the bow but getting it to hold in place above the rack seems beyond me. I get it most of the way there and it just slides off back into the water.

Currently, I tie the stern of the kayak to the port rail, lift it a few inches, retie it and repeat. Takes me to long to make Kayaking worth the trouble -- thus the side real question.

I would appreciate information from your friends on how they solved the problem. /Stu
 
I don't carry a kayak, but if I did I would watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCzEqVyS5OA for inspiration then get some PVC pipe and fittings, some line, and pulleys and start inventing. I already have the duct tape and zip ties.
 
I have a Hobie Mirage (very heavy) kayak which lives on top of the cabin. I use the same Yakima mounts that others have mentioned. As I single-hand my R31, a davit is invaluable. It's mounted at the front right corner of the cockpit, and makes it possible for me to get the kayak up and down, and works great whether at a rock or anchored. My davit was built in by Ranger Tugs, but I am pretty sure there are after-market units which would work.
 
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