King trailer won't back up

[Zundels]

When trying to re-position the R-25 and King double axle trailer on level ground for winter storage, the King trailer wheels are locked when going in reverse. Am reading that the actuator is applying the surge brakes because the surge or push in reverse indicates to the trailer to slam on the brakes. Have any of you found how we can use a manual lockout pin or another way to release the brakes so we can go in reverse with the trailer? Or is my actuator malfunctioning because it has a reversing solenoid valve, which when connected into the back-up lite circuit of the tow vehicle will disable the trailer brakes, allowing the vehicle to back up?

Don

 

[JamesTXSD]

On our King trailer, the actuator seemed to have a mind of its own when backing - sometimes it behaved fine, other times the brakes locked. Quick and dirty solution was to cut a piece of 2x4 and put it in the gap at the back side of the surge mechanism to keep it from moving. We only did this when backing, generally uphill. We had the brakes converted to electric over hydraulic, so that is no longer an issue... and it eliminates the brakes getting hot when going down a steep grade (the engine braking on our diesel pickup would cause the surge brakes to activate). Much safer, IMHO.

Hope that helps.

Best wishes,
Jim B.

 

[sportner]

If your haul vehicle is a Chev PU check the fuse under the hood, it went out several times with my last trailer and did the same thing....

 

[Zundels]

Am driving a Chevy, thanks for the idea, and the checked the trailer brake fuse under the hood, it was still OK. That would have been a convenient fix.

Doesn't look like our trailer has the wiring connected to brake light to disengage they brake. Jim's idea for a 2X4 sounds like a great back up strategy.

Am surprised if this system does not have a place to insert a bolt to over ride the brake, wouldn't you think someone else would have needed to back up on level or an uphill incline?

Don

 

[K7MXE]

I think it should be hooked up to the back up light and not the brake light. At least that is the way my ez loader is hooked up. It is the fifth pin on a flat plug in. Bob Heselberg with a R21 and 2007 ez loader trailer

 

[tuggertoy]

Bob is correct, the lockout solenoid should be connected to the back up lights on the tow vehicle. The solenoid is only effective in locking out the surge brake actuator if the surge brakes are already completely released. This means that if you have to back up from a down hill attitude the weight of the trailer has already applied the surge brakes to some extent. Putting the tow vehicle in reverse at this point will not release the brakes and any reverse movement only sets the trailer brakes harder. I have experienced this same problem on level ground where the action of coasting to a stop while moving forward has been enough to set the trailer brake and any attempt to back up then only sets the trailer brakes even harder. I cut a piece of 1/8" steel flat stock to fit the space between the frame of the surge coupler and the coupler body and I insert this piece of steel as a manual lockout for the surge brake when backing up.

The next time I have a six Benjamen Franklin's with nothing else to do, I am going to convert my surge system to electric over hydraulic as my tow vehicle is already equipped with an electric brake controller for our camper which has electric brakes.

Eric

 

[RProffer]

One time I went to jockey my EzLoader trailer around the yard and found the trailer would not back up until I plugged the trailer lights cable into my truck.

 

[Andrew Custis]

The actuator is engaged by the reverse light wire. It is a blue wire. If it does not have power going to it, I would suggest trying to flip your plug around. That way one of the brake lights or turn lights will power the actuator when towing. My first troubleshooting step would be:

1. Get your handy volt meter out.

2. Ground your meter.

3. Have someone in the vehicle put it in reverse. (This person stays there until your finished testing 😀 )

4. Put your hot lead on your volt meter to the blue wire wire out of your plug while its connected to the truck.

If you do not see voltage, you have an issue with the truck.

If you do see voltage, you have an issue with the actuator. Easy as that =)

As far as I know, the larger trailers do not have a lockout over ride. The R21 EZ loader has a manual over ride.

 

[Kamalani]

I have been struggling with the same problem myself. Today I wired the 5-wire trailer harness to the round plug vehicle adaptor. Previously, the blue brake solenoid was not wired to the vehicle. (My Bad) . However, on the EZ Loader trailer surge brake cover there is a rotating switch which will manually bypass the brakes when backing. Does the King trailer not have this feature? When using this, I find it necessary to reset the switch each time the vehicle moves forward and disengages the brake. This is a pain, and I sure hope my new wiring does the trick.

 

[K7MXE]

Those of us that got the ez trailer new remember it came with a packet of info and some junk in a bag and in that bag is a little bent piece of metal. It is rounded on one end and fits into the trailer on the left side looking toward the hitch. This piece of metal will stop the trailer from locking up the brake when going backward. Now some times it will fall out so duct tape is in order. I had poor luck with the knob on top that you can turn to do the same thing. I have to use this metal part when putting the boat into its shed. I have a hitch on the front of my old Ford Tractor and use that to get in the stall. I do not have a twelve volt system on the tractor so cant energize the trailer lockout. Bob Heselberg

 

[j&lgray]

I will chime in on this one. The Laurie Ann has a 2007 King Trailer underneath her and we have put about 6,000 miles on the trailer and launch the tug about twice a month year round. We have had no issues with the back up solenoid. Andrew and the others are correct when saying that it runs off the backup lights. If there is no power to it, it will not cut prevent the brake fluid from actuating the disk brakes and you will not be able to back up the the trailer.

If it was my problem and knowing that 80% of problems with 12 volt systems is the loss of grounding, I would first clean the ground connection in the plug (it is the one that is different from the others) and would clean all the connections. I would use a volt meter like Andrew describe to verify that current is reaching the truck side of the plug. If the problem persisted despite this work, I would look at the failure of the solenoid that is behind the actuator and replace it.

Now, having said all of that, I have replaced my surge system with an electric/hydraulic system. Did all the work myself. About $800 total and the results are improved stopping distance, no brake drag with going down hill that heats up the axles, and the availability of trailer brakes when backing down a steep ramp. I got a bolt-on coupler from etrailer.com and the Carlisle 1200 electric system from their internet store. Replaced the wiring harness with molded rubber one with a round 7-pin RV plug that fits my Dodge better.

 

[Zundels]

Not sure what I would do with out this great forum (Tugnuts) and the passionate community that supports our love for boating with our Ranger Tugs.

After all your excellent suggestions and sharing your experiences, my problems have been resolved. What worked?
-using a volt meter checked all the power too make sure the trucks reverse power was being sent to the trailer (it was)
-inserted a block into the surge "space" near the hitch
-used electrical antioxidant compound on the end of the cables as they needed cleaning and a better connection
-checked the fuses under the hood, all were good

So after all this, the trailer backed up very nicely and is now safely parked in its winter location.

Thank you for providing an education on surge brakes.

Don