Lake Powell, etc.

[norbhat]

We're announcing the annual (?) Lake Powell TugNut Treffen/Rendezvous/Gathering Sept. 10-12 (with hearty greetings to our Bremerton cousins). If 10-12 doesn't suit you, we plan to be afloat Sept. 7-20. Holler.

The 20th we plan to haul out, winterize, and store inside at Big Water.

Will appreciate your suggestions on winterizing. Has anyone figured out a bypass of the hot water tank?

What have you found best for soap and wax?

Norb and Ruth Hattendorf
"Two If By Sea"
Ranger 25
norbhat@comcast.net
303.513.1064

 

[captain's cat]

Will appreciate your suggestions on winterizing. Has anyone figured out a bypass of the hot water tank?

I'm only working from the diagram in the R25 manual but it looks as if the water heater is below the level of the faucets on the sinks. If so, and there's a valve on the inlet side (the cold water side), shut that off, open the drain on the heater tank and the hot faucets in the galley and the head and the water should drain out of the heater and the lines.

That doesn't solve the freezing problems in the other lines though. The RV solution is to have a valve at the inlet and the outlet side of the hot water tank, and a bypass line between the inlet and outlet hoses. Then the tank can be fully drained through the tank drain (probably to the bilge) Run both all faucets (cold will come out of hot and cold alike) until the tank is "empty". Put about 2-3 Gallons of pink RV antifreeze in the water tank and again run all faucets until they run pink. Shut down and you are done. In the spring, close the bypass on the hot water tank, open the valves to the tank on the inlet and outlet side. Run hot and cold faucets until the tank is empty of pink stuff. There will be some leftover so you need to fill and flush until the faucets run clear on both hot and cold. Be sure you turn off the switches to both the water pump and to the water heater tank at the appropriate times (the tank element will burn out if the tank is dry and it's on).

RV places sell "bypass kits" that contain all the parts to install a bypass system. Not sure how easy your access is but it's not a difficult job if you can get to it.

Happy plumbing!! :mrgreen:

Charlie

 

[captain's cat]

Will appreciate your suggestions on winterizing. Has anyone figured out a bypass of the hot water tank?

I'm only working from the diagram in the R25 manual but it looks as if the water heater is below the level of the faucets on the sinks. If so, and there's a valve on the inlet side (the cold water side), shut that off, open the drain on the heater tank and the hot faucets in the galley and the head and the water should drain out of the heater and the lines.

That doesn't solve the freezing problems in the other lines though. The RV solution is to have a valve at the inlet and the outlet side of the hot water tank, and a bypass line between the inlet and outlet hoses. Then the tank can be fully drained through the tank drain (probably to the bilge) Run both all faucets (cold will come out of hot and cold alike) until the tank is "empty". Put about 2-3 Gallons of pink RV antifreeze in the water tank and again run all faucets until they run pink. Shut down and you are done. In the spring, close the bypass on the hot water tank, open the valves to the tank on the inlet and outlet side. Run hot and cold faucets until the tank is empty of pink stuff. There will be some leftover so you need to fill and flush until the faucets run clear on both hot and cold. Be sure you turn off the switches to both the water pump and to the water heater tank at the appropriate times (the tank element will burn out if the tank is dry and it's on).

RV places sell "bypass kits" that contain all the parts to install a bypass system. Not sure how easy your access is but it's not a difficult job if you can get to it.

BTW, it's not a "hot water heater"! It's a "water heater", if the water were hot, you wouldn't have to heat it! Just a pet peeve of mine.. :shock: However, it IS a "Hot Water Tank" because that's where the water resides until you use it.

Happy plumbing!! :mrgreen:

Charlie

 

[norbhat]

Thanks, Charlie. I appreciate the English lessonhttp://www.tugnuts.com/posting.ph ... =2&t=1293#.

I am acquainted with the RV system. When I looked--I'm not at the boat--it seemed there was no access to the intake side of the "water heater." But I'm going to run this by Andrew.

Norb

 

[Rebel]

I was able to pull the inlet and outlet lines from the hot water "tank" and obtain a plastic fitting that allowed me to splice the two pipes together. I could then fully pressurize the system to run the pink stuff through everything except the tank. I then drained the tank. Unfortunately I was interrupted when I was putting it all back together this spring and pumped a bunch of water through the tank before I closed the drain valve. I would try anything to save the pink stuff I would need to use if the tank were no bypassed. Hope this helps.
John Turner

 

[Rebel]

I was able to pull the inlet and outlet lines from the hot water "tank" and obtain a plastic fitting that allowed me to splice the two pipes together. I could then fully pressurize the system to run the pink stuff through everything except the tank. I then drained the tank. Unfortunately I was interrupted when I was putting it all back together this spring and pumped a bunch of water through the tank before I closed the drain valve. I would try anything to save the pink stuff I would need to use if the tank were no bypassed. Hope this helps.
John Turner