Launching R25

cruiser

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2013
Messages
18
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Ranger R23
Vessel Name
Ta-Keel-La
Anyone have an idea of how much water depth you need at the trailer wheels to get the R25 off (or on) the trailer?
Our tidal boat ramp doesn't seem that steep

Thanks
 
We have struggled with a low slope ramp for two seasons with our R27. Here is what I know.

The ramp at our marina (Oak Harbor, WA) was made for seaplanes in World War II (the whole marina is a converted WWII Seaplane base). It has less than a 6% slope. A standard boat ramp slope is 12 to 15%. Bottom line, it doesn't work. If I back any further the electric-hydraulic controller would be under water (as well as the truck!).

So... one answer to your question is to measure the slope of your ramp. You can do this with one of the free "level" apps available for smart phones. With a slope over 10% (or 9 degrees or so) you should be golden. Based on your post I'm suspecting this is not the case. :cry:

The other answer is based only on extrapolation from data I have as I have not directly measured the water depth at any launch. The water level of the boat when it is floating is just below the start of the bottom paint edge which is about 6 Inches above the trailer fenders when it is on the trailer. Assuming the center of gravity of the boat is approximately at the wheels when on the trailer I think you need to have water near that level (6 inches above the fenders) for a float off launch. You can get if off with less water than that but it requires you to power off or gun the truck and jam the brakes several times.

So.. Based on all this I think the short answer is about 40" of water at the front wheels of the trailer.
 
That's a difficult question to answer as the slope of the ramp makes a big difference. For a true level float off, Red Raven's description/estimate is probably pretty good. However, the steeper the ramp, the less water needed at the wheels. When the boat is at an angle the stern will rise while the front of the boat is still on the trailer. But as the rear of the boat starts to float, carpet gets wet, etc, the friction between hull and bunks goes down dramatically. I find that once the boat is about 2/3 afloat, it slips off fairly easily without and drama of engine revving, wheels spinning etc. I simply pull forward a couple of feet and the boat will follow along but will slip a few inches. Let the truck roll back to the original start point and repeat. Usually only two or three evolutions is needed. This all on a well designed, purpose built ramp. All that said, when doing this I'd bet that the wheels are pretty darn close to Raven's guestimated 40 inches of water. My stopping point is when the wiring harness plug-in is within a couple of inches of getting wet.

For the same reason when hauling out, the 2/3 floatation supports enough weight/reduces enough friction to pull the boat the rest of the way (maybe 18-24 in.) forward.
 
My rule of thumb is one inch of water above my fenders. If I cannot obtain that then I will have a problem. It is also important to make sure you have enough ramp to back the trailer in. I always pace from my front trailer wheels to the back of the boat and then take my boat pole to make sure there is still ramp and enough water depth at the point where I will stop my truck and rear wheels. I wouldn't worry about launching as much as retrieval. You can always get the boat off in lousy conditions. The problem will be getting it back on.
 
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