Lewmar Windlass inadequate on newer R27s

SLyle01

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 22, 2019
Messages
138
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
Aurelia
Several Members here have reported that the current model Lewmar windlass (i.e. as installed on 2017-19 Rangers) will not retrieve the combined weight of 50' chain and line deployed. No issues with jamming, gypsy binding, electrical or clutch slippage. I experienced failure-to-retreive so often that anchoring is essentially impractical (and dangerous).
Older Rangers/Cutwaters report they don't seem to have the same problems.
Is there a more powerful windlass available that could replace the current Lewmar model under warranty, since the standard equipment doesn't function properly?
 
Curious as to what model Lewmar windlass; is it the Pro-Fish 700 or 1000?
 
Crewdog":324gtblj said:
Curious as to what model Lewmar windlass; is it the Pro-Fish 700 or 1000?

Hello,

We use the Pro-Series 1000H with a 5/16' gypsy, it is also the same windlass we used on the classic R27 inboard. Hope this helps.

Thank you,
Kevin Lamont
 
In the dozen or so times we've anchored our 2016 R27 so far, the windlass has never had trouble retrieving the anchor and chain. We've had the chain bunch up in the locker and jam, easy fix by flattening out the chain pile, and we've had the rode slip off the roller, another easy fix, but never stop due to lack of power.

According to Lewmar, this windlass is rated for a 38' boat and pulls 1000 Lb. I can't imagine our little R27s would overload it.

I wonder, could the issue be limitations in the current supplied to the windlass in the newer R27s?
 
Here's a thought: as a rule, I only operate the windlass with the engine running. I wonder if the folks here who are experiencing this problem are trying to retrieve anchor without the engine running, and the battery alone can't quite supply the umph needed?
 
Not mention the long cable run from battery to windlass if the battery is not fully charged or weak for some reason.
 
We have a 2018 model year R-31CB with the same model windlass and gypsy. We have an oversized Rocna 15kg anchor, carry twice the normal length of chain, 100’ plus 200’ rope rode, and there were times when we deployed it all on our recent trip to Alaska. Never had any problem with the windlass retrieving the anchor. But as already mentioned, we always had the engine running while using the windlass.
 
I would think that Ranger Tugs and Cutwater have done their homework on the windlass before purchasing and installing on their boats.
 
Make sure the adjuster is tight enough or it will slip You will need a tool to get it tight enough .. And as mentioned I would make sure engine is running.. which it should be if you are pulling up anchor.
Good Luck
 
SLyle01":f84sdken said:
Several Members here have reported that the current model Lewmar windlass (i.e. as installed on 2017-19 Rangers) will not retrieve the combined weight of 50' chain and line deployed. No issues with jamming, gypsy binding, electrical or clutch slippage. I experienced failure-to-retreive so often that anchoring is essentially impractical (and dangerous).
Older Rangers/Cutwaters report they don't seem to have the same problems.
Is there a more powerful windlass available that could replace the current Lewmar model under warranty, since the standard equipment doesn't function properly?
I am not clear on the issues you are having. Is the line slipping in the gypsy? Is the windless just not powerful enough to lift what line/chain you have out? How fast does the gypsy turn when it does turn?
I have not had any issues with the windless on my 2018 RT27OB, if anything it retrieves the line too quickly.
 
I love the Tugnuts forum!

I try to view most posts, but when a post is directly related to our 2019 R27-OB, it triggers my attention, and sometimes, research into my manuals or online searches to further my boating knowledge. This is one such post.

First of all, we have had no issues whatsoever with our Pro Series 1000 windlass in retrieving our (50') 5/16" chain and 200' of line. I would say I have always had my motor running during retrieval simply to navigate to anchor rather than have the windlass "pull" the boat to it. My First Mate is at the helm and I am at the bow operating the windlass and washing down the rode.

I went to my Lewmar Windlass literature for the wiring diagram and installation instructions. Per Lewmar, the system performance is "directly related to cable size and length. Voltage drop over complete wiring run must not exceed 10%."

Wire gauge for our boat should be 6 AWG. There presumably is also an inline 70a circuit breaker near the battery connection. I have not attempted to locate this this breaker yet, but I will as part of my education.

Thanks for your post, and i truly hope you are able to resolve your issue!
 
Lewmar windlass 70a circuit breaker is located behind helm, accessed from behind mirror in the head.
 
I've had no problems at all with my windlass on my 2012 R-27 Classic. I'm in the same camp as Toki in that I always have the engine running while retrieving or deploying my anchor.

Cheers,
Mark
 
SLyle01":4l2j3fsf said:
Several Members here have reported that the current model Lewmar windlass (i.e. as installed on 2017-19 Rangers) will not retrieve the combined weight of 50' chain and line deployed. No issues with jamming, gypsy binding, electrical or clutch slippage. I experienced failure-to-retreive so often that anchoring is essentially impractical (and dangerous).
Older Rangers/Cutwaters report they don't seem to have the same problems.
Is there a more powerful windlass available that could replace the current Lewmar model under warranty, since the standard equipment doesn't function properly?

The issue sounds like lack of power. The windless is sized properly for the boat based on the specs of the Pro series 1000H. 1000 lbs pulling power and boat size Rating 20' to 45'. The rating suits a 27' boat. The first question is what is the battery voltage? Next what is the battery voltage at the Battery switch? What is the battery voltage at the breaker? What is the battery voltage at the windlass? I would assume you would have other issues if the battery had low voltage but confirming the condition is important. There are several positive lead connections between the battery and the windlass. If any of these connections are loose, or corroded you will have a voltage drop in the connection that will rob you of the voltage needed to properly power the windlass. Before condemning the windlass I would troubleshoot the electrical going to the windlass. Good battery (yes) All good electrical connections and wiring between the battery and the windlass (positive and Negative) (yes) replace windlass. If you answer no to the one the first 2. Fix and repair as needed.
 
BB marine":34io78xl said:
SLyle01":34io78xl said:
Several Members here have reported that the current model Lewmar windlass (i.e. as installed on 2017-19 Rangers) will not retrieve the combined weight of 50' chain and line deployed. No issues with jamming, gypsy binding, electrical or clutch slippage. I experienced failure-to-retreive so often that anchoring is essentially impractical (and dangerous).
Older Rangers/Cutwaters report they don't seem to have the same problems.
Is there a more powerful windlass available that could replace the current Lewmar model under warranty, since the standard equipment doesn't function properly?

The issue sounds like lack of power. The windless is sized properly for the boat based on the specs of the Pro series 1000H. 1000 lbs pulling power and boat size Rating 20' to 45'. The rating suits a 27' boat. The first question is what is the battery voltage? Next what is the battery voltage at the Battery switch? What is the battery voltage at the breaker? What is the battery voltage at the windlass? I would assume you would have other issues if the battery had low voltage but confirming the condition is important. There are several positive lead connections between the battery and the windlass. If any of these connections are loose, or corroded you will have a voltage drop in the connection that will rob you of the voltage needed to properly power the windlass. Before condemning the windlass I would troubleshoot the electrical going to the windlass. Good battery (yes) All good electrical connections and wiring between the battery and the windlass (positive and Negative) (yes) replace windlass. If you answer no to the one the first 2. Fix and repair as needed.

Excellent analysis, thanks. I came to the same conclusion: Power to windlass is inadequate for some reason.
The R27 O/B is a 2019, so windlass and AGM batteries are new. POWER drop may be from: too long cable (unlikely), bad batteries (unlikely) faulty switches/connections (unlikely, since windlass functions normally under little load), no mechanical issues. Will try in Spring with engine running. If still no dice, then it's a Lewmar problem.
 
SLyle01":6m1ubgft said:
POWER drop may be from: ... faulty switches/connections (unlikely, since windlass functions normally under little load).

It would actually be quite possible, if there were a faulty connection, for the windlass to function normally under little load but stall at higher loads. Say you have a loose connection to the battery which introduces an unexpected resistance into the circuit. At no or low load, a DC motor draws very little current, so the voltage drop across the bad connection is negligible and the motor sees close to full voltage. As load increases and the motor slows, the current it draws dramatically increases, with the result that the voltage drop across the bad connection (as well as the cables) increases also, robbing the motor of voltage and power. If this were the case, you would probably notice heat being generated at the bad connection. If you take a voltage reading at or near the motor, it would be important to do it while the motor is under load to get a true diagnosis.
 
Might be interesting to use a clamp meter on the line to see what current is drawn under light load and high load.
 
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