Lewmar windless frozen

[captstu]

Hi, Went out to my favorite anchorage intending to have a relaxing lunch - pulled into the ideal spot - bushed the "down" button and nothing.

Not quite actually, When I tested a bit, I found:

1. The relay clicked normally in both the down and up position.
2. The buss voltage with the engine running was a nominal 13.85 volts - as it always is
3. When I pressed the "down" button, the buss voltage dropped to 12.75 volts and the engine has a "loaded" sound - indicating, to me, that the motor was drawing normal power.

My guess is it just froze up from bad luck.

Before I pull the windless apart, What Should I Do?

thank you /Stu

 

[Scuffy]

I would call the Lewmar service repair center which I believe used to be in Jacksonville, Fl. The guy in charge there was pretty helpful and replaced one for me a few years ago the was out of warranty at no charge.

 

[captstu]

At 2010, I'm way passed warranty. Thinking of replacing it with a 700 and 1/4" G4 chain that will weigh less and fall better.

In the meantime, has anyone disassembled the windless to figure out what froze up?.

Thank you ... Stu

 

[Osprey]

These Lewmar winches can be operated manually (Pro-Series 1000) using a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. An attempt at manual operation will verify whether or not the winch is frozen (mechanical fault). A frozen electric motor will draw much more than normal current such that I would expect the circuit breaker to open. Do you have a clamp-on ammeter so that you can measure the current draw?
If you intend to pull the winch apart there is a quite a bit of youtube video available on the internet. Do a search for "Lewmar Windlass Tear Down" or "Lewmar Windlass Repair".

 

[NorthernFocus]

...In the meantime, has anyone disassembled the windless to figure out what froze up?.

I just had mine apart and replaced the motor. If it's locked up it is likely a failed(rusted) bearing. Either in the gears or the motor itself. Mine was the motor. Same symptoms only mine would sometimes turn a bit prior to seizing. Drew enough current for the motor leads to heat up in a matter of seconds and still didn't trip the breaker.

As Osprey said you can find videos on YouTube. It's not difficult to get apart but if a bearing needs to be replaced it could get involved and/or require special tools. A gear puller is needed to get it apart completely. They can be had for $20 at NAPA stores or via Amazon. If bearing races are rusted in place and you can afford it a new windlass may be a better choice.

Like closed metal "box" on a boat, the windlass gets water inside from condensation. Mine was well greased at the factory and in spite of all the water inside the bearings were protected. However the motor also "breathes" and gets water inside. Not much can be done to protect the motor bearings. These things simply have an expendable useful life. Only as good as the weakest link.

If you do plan to overhaul it, the parts can be found on-line. New motor and complete set of bearings can be had for about half what a new windlass costs. You can also replace the gypsy to handle 1/2 in line and 1/4 in chain. New gypsy is about an additional $100. So if you want to downsize you ground tackle you may be better off to do as you suggested and simply replace it.

 

[captstu]

Thanks all - I'll make one attempt to free the motor than order a new 700 plus some 1/4" G4 chain. Seems a better alternative since it is coming up on 7 years old. /Stu