Live Webinar, 4/23/20 - Tugnuts on the loose!

R27 O/B Air cond. fan is very loud (esp. in berth area). Adjusting fan-speed w/remote seems to do nothing. End up turning it all off to get some sleep. Any way to make real fan-speed reduction?
 
cathy&ron":2nt3p3k1 said:
Ron & Cathy on Lady Grey, 23’ RT in Blaine, Wa.
Rust forms at the contact points where glass meets the stainless steel. We’ve tried on and off, and it will remove the rust, but it leaves a stain on the white glass even after thorough flushing with water...and in a short time the rust returns. Is there a better way to prevent the steel from shedding rust on the glass. Perhaps a barrier between glass and steel. Is there anything that will stop the rust such as the products that change rust (iron oxide) chemically into a non rusting substance (unfortunately, the chemically changed rust may become black). Please help as this problem is both unsightly, damaging to the boat, and repetitive. Plus, the on and off can be dangerous to work with, and is destructive to aluminum and other materials found on Ranger Tugs.
Click to expand...
I have had good results using Collonite 850 Metal Wax for this situation. Take a toothbrush and work it in at the base of the SS hardware. It is not a cure all but it cleans up the rust. I also use it on all the SS rails by applying it with a cotton work glove. Easy to apply, remove and not toxic like that On and Off.
 
First of all, thanks for putting on these sessions. I have learned from each and every one. This speaks volumes about the Ranger Tugs/Cutwater Company.

Being able to trailer a Ranger Tug is one of it's may attributes. Any tips or demonstrations on single handed launching and recovery would be appreciated. Some of us have a First Mate not comfortable with handling the trailer so tips on how we can lunch and retrieve with minimal assistance would be great!
 
Brian B":1kfkiliy said:
cathy&ron":1kfkiliy said:
Ron & Cathy on Lady Grey, 23’ RT in Blaine, Wa.
Rust forms at the contact points where glass meets the stainless steel. We’ve tried on and off, and it will remove the rust, but it leaves a stain on the white glass even after thorough flushing with water...and in a short time the rust returns. Is there a better way to prevent the steel from shedding rust on the glass. Perhaps a barrier between glass and steel. Is there anything that will stop the rust such as the products that change rust (iron oxide) chemically into a non rusting substance (unfortunately, the chemically changed rust may become black). Please help as this problem is both unsightly, damaging to the boat, and repetitive. Plus, the on and off can be dangerous to work with, and is destructive to aluminum and other materials found on Ranger Tugs.
Click to expand...
I have had good results using Collonite 850 Metal Wax for this situation. Take a toothbrush and work it in at the base of the SS hardware. It is not a cure all but it cleans up the rust. I also use it on all the SS rails by applying it with a cotton work glove. Easy to apply, remove and not toxic like that On and Off.
Click to expand...

I can second that. Collinite 850 and a tooth brush works great for the rust leaching around SS fittings!

Curt
 
We are new to boating in the PNW.
Mostly inland lakes where anchoring out is almost non-existant.
Or the use of mooring balls for that matter.
Is a swivel a good option between the anchor shank and the chain to prevent a hockle?
Bill
 
Sam,

How about Spring maintenance and inspection considerations for our EZ Loader triple axle trailers? Tires, brakes, fluids, bunks etc. would be great information for those who two considerable miles.

Gary
 
If the inverter is turned off at the KISAE Inverter control panel on the R31CB will the batteries still charge from the solar panel and shore power (if connected)?
 
I'll second this question....

tdellaviola":1ec8p2mj said:
Securing Anchor Rope on 2014 C30
Question regarding securing the anchor rope when at anchor. The very small cleat in the anchor box seems to small/fragile to hold the boat in weather, but the large forward cleats are above the anchoring equipment. What is the recommended practise for securing the anchor rope? a bridal seems like a pain....

thank you
Click to expand...
 
You want the bitter end of the anchor rode attached to SOMETHING, so that you do not make a mistake and feed the entire line overboard and watch it float away or sink. A small cleat is good for that purpose. The heavier deck cleats will be stronger to actually secure the anchor.
 
I would appreciate a more thorough description of the relationship between the inverter and battery banks. For example, a diagram of energy flow when on shore power versus off of shore power. Another example would be that it's recommended that the inverter be turned off when off of shore power, but then how to you get energy to appliances that need AC, ie. outlets, water heater, etc.?
 
Port and starboard drainage channels on 29cb along the
Outside along the galley are, there no drainage escape, so water sits there And
Gets scummy, any fix?
 
Which model year did Volvo quit installing engine zincs?
 
Can you please address the changing of the Volvo transmission oil filter.
-Can this be done by owners?
-What transmission fluid is recommended?
-What are the recommended engine operating hours or calendar frequency of this maintenance?
 
It would be good to hear the factory opinion on adding a generator aftermarket. Best to replicate what the factory did? Are there better products out there for retrofit than the original? Opinions on the controversial portable generator?
 
Fluid Motion Staff,

First, I'd like to thank and congratulate Fluid Motion on taking the initiative of creating the Webinar's during this challenging time. They are well done and very informative.
I struggled with how to state this as a question that you might address in the next webinar. But here goes.

Do all inboard diesel owners know that you MUST close the sea cock prior to beginning a tow when the diesel is not running? Failure to close the sea cock prior to a tow when the engine is not running can and/or will lead to hydro locking the diesel engine.

Does Fluid Motion know that there is no mention of this requirement in the boat's or Volvo engine operating manuals? And that there is no Danger or Warning Tag hung on the sea cock valve?

I learned of this the hard way when a 12 hour unpowered tow from Buttedale, BC to Prince Rupert, BC was required on my journey from Anacortes, WA to Seward, AK in June of 2018 in my 2016 R-27C. After a week in a repair facility in Prince Rupert and a rather large bill to clean up the engine, I was on my way North again. After arriving in Seward, I contacted Fluid Motion who confirmed that the sea cock must be closed for an unpowered tow as water will back flow through the turbo and fill the cylinders. They stated it is 'common sense' and is covered during the new boat orientation. I argue that there is no such thing as 'common sense' but rather there is 'common knowledge'. I clearly lacked the 'common knowledge' to close the sea cock. I now have a note in my operating manual as well as a red warning tag hung on the sea cock stating: "Valve must be closed prior to commencing an unpowered tow". I purchased my boat in early 2018 as the second owner.

The tow boat operator required that we lock the shaft from spinning by using a couple of pipe wrenches. He apparently had 'common knowledge' that some transmissions can be damaged while being towed by spinning and overheating. Is this a risk for the Volvo transmissions?

People will ask 'Why was a tow required'? We were running along at 3000 RPM in clear weather and flat seas. There were many, many logs and debris in the water. We were watching out and maneuvering around the debris as required. But there was an instantaneous 'bang' followed by severe vibration in the drive train. I immediately put the boat in neutral and went aft to check our wake to see if I had hit a log or dead head. I saw nothing in my wake. Checking out the situation, the vibration was directly proportional to the engine RPM when the transmission was engaged. After a couple of minutes of trouble shooting, the engine was put in neutral as we assessed our options. Luckily, a 36 foot Grand Banks cruised by and I hailed him for assistance. He graciously took us under tow into Buttedale for the night. Once under tow........I shut down the engine. Once in the repair yard in Prince Rupert, we learned that we did not hit anything. Prop and shaft were perfect. What occurred is the bottom nuts on the rear engine mounts backed off allowing the engine to fall into a non-aligned position. Blowing the salt water out of the engine and turbo and realignment of the engine and transmission had us on our way North again.

Are there any other things that should be done for an unpowered tow? I've seen treads in TugNuts about possibly pinching off the shaft packing cooling water line? Could a simple checklist be created and included in the boats operation manual for 'Unpowered Tow', similar to checklists for what to do prior to launching on a trailer, or hooking up/disconnecting from shore power?

Thanks,
Bob Allan
Annie M
2016 R-27C D3-200.
 
How easily could an AIS 300 user upgrade to AIS 600?

Following up on first webinar, did you test the amps on the anchor light?

What would be the advantage of adding an after market battery meter as some owners have done? We already have one on the Solar meter and one on the switch panel.

Does adding a second solar panel make sense without adding battery capacity?
 
What's the difference between the compression belt and the serpentine belt listed on the parts form for the D6 435 diesel engine and are both needed for the suggested annual maintenance; presumably with impeller replacement.
Thanks,
Steve
 
In one of the webinars can you cover maintenance for the Westerbeke gas generator on a RT27 OB?
 
Dawn Treader":36ltck1h said:
In one of the webinars can you cover maintenance for the Westerbeke gas generator on a RT27 OB?
Click to expand...

And the diesel genset too.
 
Have a 2017 R29CB, whats the process for using compressed air for winterization rather than antifreeze . I am wasting several hundred gallons of water to get rid of the antifreeze taste. Don’t want to do that again

Thanks
Joe
 
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