Locating shower strainer and cockpit shower pump on 2013 R27

[msu1966]

I am preparing to use air to blow out all water lines. I can't locate the strainer/box for the head shower. Also the cockpit shower has a on/off pump switch. If I blow the water lines by pushing air into the input side of the fresh water pump will that clear the water line going to the cockpit shower?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[CaspersCruiser]

You’re in for a real treat. The shower sump is located under the floor of the cabinet holding the head sink. It is a bitch to get to. It would be a thousand times easier to buy some pink anti-freeze and run through it.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

Might be 2 thousand times easier if your shower sump pump is working. #;-) GF

 

[msu1966]

Thanks for confirming what I was hoping to do to winterize the shower, just pour antifreeze down the drain. Since my wife is the only one who has used the shower, I believe it is working but is there a dedicated switch for the shower pump, if so where is it?
Also if I blow the water lines from the fresh water pump will that clear the line going to the cockpit shower like it doew in the galley and head sink?

 

[CaspersCruiser]

There is no dedicated switch for the shower sump pump unless a previous owner installed one. The factory does not provide one. If a switch has been installed, it will most likely will be located in or around the head sink cabinetry.

Absent a dedicated switch, what makes the shower sump pump run is an incredibly problematic float switch. Sometimes the float switch gets stuck in the ON position and the pump runs when you don’t want it to run or, conversely, the switch doesn’t float when needed and the pump doesn’t run. Just pour pink anti-freeze into the floor drain in the head until the pump expels it. If the pump doesn’t run, keep pouring in anti-freeze into the floor drain until it overflows. The overfill in the sump box will eventually drain into the bilge.

My boat does not have a cockpit shower so I can’t answer that question.

 

[Kiorana]

The floor of the bathroom sink cabinet is white starboard that can be lifted out to reveal the sump pump system. It is a good idea to clean out that sump area once in a while. It can get pretty nasty looking and the filter system can get clogged and moldy.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

If your sump pump does not activate it is most likely gunked up (technical term, sorry). You can try some methods suggested on these forums to unstick it if you find anti-freeze backing up thru the drain like pouring in hot water or vinegar to free things up. Of course once your drain is overflowing its going to be messy trying to get the sump empty again so you can add those ingredients. I suggest you open the sink cabinet and remove the floor piece - mine just lifts out, no fasteners. The sump (i.e. bilge) pump should power on when the box is about 3/4 full. If it doesn't it may be time to bite the bullet as I did before things get messy.

I took the lid off which as others have acknowledged is a pain but with patience and an offset phillips head driver its pretty easy since the material is all plastic. Then try flicking the manual lever of the bilge pump UP (its located on the far side of the pump and out of sight so just play around a bit) to activate the pump. If that doesn't work just get a small cup and remove the water manually. I then disassembled the cylindrical filter and cleaned it, removed the pump (left all wires in place and only had to remove a zip tie that gathered extra wire) and cleaned it with a toothbrush, cleaned out the box, clean the one way valve in the hose exiting the box, and finally tried the manual lever again. All the fittings in and around the box are tight so write down your order of disassembly to make reassembly easier. If after all the cleaning the manual lever doesn't activate the pump you probably have a bad pump or more likely an electrical issue to chase down.

If the pump does finally activate reassemble everything, pour in about 1/2 gallon of vinegar (do not put in enough to activate the pump) and let it sit for an hour or two. Then flush with water.

Here are some pics to show what I did:

Sump box with view of pump, filter, inlet and outlet:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/08yiTQg ... QCchQj9Aew

Sump box lid removed:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0iNV8Su ... yMNti6E6zA

Pump close up:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/04zuMdg ... C2OZE2yrYQ

Float switch close up (the manual lever is behind the switch in the upper right corner):
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Hhl6h_ ... ANKxWhYBfQ

Filter removed:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0mxi792 ... -pihp_b__g

Pump removed (the one way valve is the dark bit in the short plastic tube):
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0_-3LyB ... PHjz1LW1yw

Hose clamp for the short plastic tube (pain to remove it but easy to put on):
https://share.icloud.com/photos/06RRpV6 ... lORnk8MxdQ

Float switch removal (only need to remove the visible screw, the out of view screw just needs to be loosed 1 turn):
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0HymzCP ... PMqyP2m_dQ

The out of view screw can stay in place:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0LHNLty ... ePueshnMrA

Float switch removed with float mechanism slid out of the case:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0eg3zBD ... -NJk9h5SZQ

HTH, GF

 

[CaspersCruiser]

The above is the best R27 shower sump post I’ve yet seen on Tugnuts. Bookmark it.

The only thing I can add is someone once suggested replacing with the phillips head screws securing the sump box cover with thumb screws. That way one doesn’t have to fool with a mini phillips screwdriver or right angle screwdriver. I’ll make that change the next time I take on the onerous job of working on the shower sump.

When the shower sump works, it’s heavenly.