Looking at a 2013 R27 in saltwater - advice please!

KnotNimbus

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Apr 23, 2021
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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Wellcraft 260 Aft Cabin
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Knot Nimbus
Hi everyone, this is my first post in Tug Nuts. Excited to be here!

I'm going to go look at purchasing my first used Ranger Tug ('13 R27) and I wanted to ask other Ranger Tug owners on their thoughts on buying a used saltwater boat. I am coming from the (freshwater) land of smaller gas-powered express cruisers where everything is raw-water cooled and salt water destroys manifolds, engine blocks and the like. I've been told that Ranger Tugs have a dedicated cooling loop that keeps salt water out of the engine block. Is this true? And/or are there any other things I should look for, or be concerned about given a boat's lifetime in saltwater?

Thanks in advance!!!
 
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The vast majority of Ranger Tugs spend their lives in salt water. They're purpose built for intercostal cruising.

Cheers,

Bruce
 
The inboard diesels all have an interior close loop within the engine block with antifreeze, much like a car. With that said salt or fresh lake water does have an exhaust loop that pulls in water via an impeller, thru a heat exchanger, exhaust and more before it exits. For an 8 year old boat the heat exchanger should have been serviced to make sure it’s not scaled up or blocked. You should ask if there are oil analysis for the engine, which helps determine engine health. I’d suggest a survey of the boat and her components to help weed out any possible problems or weaknesses. A good survey will help you know what potential work needs to be done in the boat and or to use as a negotiation tool. What about a trailer? Was it used for salt water launches? How are the brakes, tires, bearings etc.

This should get you started.

Jim
 
Depends---many factors, but from my experience of over 2500 hours in both fresh water and saltwater. Exterior: Stainless steel rusts, so the fiberglass may have stains that can be removed with the proper chemicals and if kept polished and waxed will rust less. I have found some of the fast pins are frozen but can be freed with WD-40 and a light tap of a hammer. Interior: Salt air will land on the inside of the boat and cause perhaps more mildew, and the more fussy owners may replace the mouse fur. My boat spends winters in the south Florida/Bahamas and the sun takes its toll on the woodwork, so it may need some refurbishment. My engine is a Yanmar 4 BY 180. The engine mounts were replaced after six years because of excessive rust caused by poor engineering of draining locker drains. I did frequently spray anti-corrosion on them, but the rear port suffered the worse. Engine Zincs seem to disappear quickly, 6-8 months. Preventive maintenance caused me to replace all the hoses and the exhaust elbow, as they deteriorate over time. I replace all my outside zincs about every nine months, they include four on the swim platform stainless steel supports, trim tabs, and the propeller. I have bonded all the bronze thru-hulls including the garboard plug, and the stainless steel keel shoe.
A good surveyor should note any problem areas that may need tending to.
Overall I use my Ranger 27 2011 as it was intended, trailering to Alaska, using it as an RV throughout the West through the National parks on a 14,000-mile journey, then to the canals in Ontario, Canada, Rivers in Kentucky and Tennessee, Bahamas, and this summer going to Maine, as Canada is closed for the St Lawrence River.
 
Good advice and money well spent on a survey. I passed on the first Ranger I surveyed and am glad I did. The second was well cared for and the same surveyor confirmed it. The keeper spent 2012 till the present in salt water. If properly cared for the salt shouldn't be a problem where it really counts: engine, genset, underwater metals etc. GF
 
Be willing to listen to the surveyor, the boat too will tell you very quickly if it's been taken care of. Look at surfaces that are visible and those that are hidden. Look in the lockers, engine compartment, fixtures, etc. Has the boat been looked after or left for months at a time without any care? Look for corrosion in and around the engine, signs the engine hasn't had regular maintenance. Ask to see what the owner has for records. Does the boat smell? Any usual signs the boat has been used hard, look for cracks in the gel coat around radius corners, around hatches and fittings. Many of the signs of a well taken care of or neglected boat can be visually seen with careful attention.
 
How an owner cared for their boat is more important than the environment. Every manufacturer has its specific issues so make sure your surveyor checks them out. On the R-27 check the engine mounts. Check how hot it runs at WOT. The engines tend to run hot, but if within limits I would not worry. Did the owner ever have the heat exchanger serviced? You did not mention engine, Yanmar or Volvo? They were switched around that time. If it is a Yanmar make sure all the service bulletins were done, oil pressure line, oil pressure sensor ground and oil pressure software update. Check that fuel pump clamp is secured and not broken due to vibration fatigue.
 
good comments above. my boat has been in the salt water for its life since 2012.

There is always some natural wear and tear with a boat, you can't discard a 8 year old boat because its not in show room condition. that being said someone who is keeping up with maintenance is key and being proactive to potential issues.

i say this having just had a combined yard bill for $13.5K for this years work. :shock: but to be fair a lot was done

New interior upholstery
Major engine service include belts, impeller, transmission, and refit of coolant hoses and rebuild of the bulkhead to make it easier to service in the future
new LED lights on trim tabs, dropfin install, new trim tab ram, new actuator valve assembly for hatch and trim tabs (with lots of troubleshooting to fix multiple solenoids, pumps and actuators tried), new hatch ram install, (over 26 hours of labor just here!)
New bottom paint two coats petit vivid
head joker valve replace
rudder refurb - including removal of rudder to fit a new zerk fitting for rudder grease as it was corroded
 
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