Looking for stern anchor suggestions

johnniethek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
414
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 S
Hull Identification Number
FMLT29211617
Vessel Name
Salish Searcher
Hello one and all,

As a newbie, I need to start accumulating lots of things to go with my new R-21EC. One of those is a stern anchor.

Can folks here suggest an effective, affordable one, along with a suggested length of rode? I do plan to stay aboard several times this summer when I cruise the San Juans. I may also use the boat for overnighters in the South Sound area.

Should I also have chain on the stern anchor like I do for the bow anchor?

Thanks, and I appreciate the collective wisdom of everyone here.

JtheK, aka Red Ranger
 
JtheK, personally, unless the water were unusually calm and I was just trying to keep the boat from swinging into the sun or for some other reason, I would never put out a stern anchor. Too many stories lately about boats being "pooped" (water over the stern, filling and sinking) for me to ever want to do that.

What makes you think you want to do that?

Charlie
 
I own the 25 and have 3 anchors on board. The claw that came with the boat and two Fortress anchors.Even though they are pricey, I like the Fortress anchors as I can break them down for storage, they are light weight and are strong with good holding power. As was previously stated I would be hesitant to anchor by the stern only as you stand a chance of getting swamped over the stern. I use the bow anchor and the stern anchors in well protected waters where it is crowded and have limited swing room. Or I can set two bow anchors. I carry an' extra 150' of 5/16 rode as well as a 50' length of 3/8 rode both with chain. Some bottoms wont hold the claw anchor as well as the fortress and if necessary I can swap out. hope this helps

Frank

Ainokea
 
For the Laurie Ann, we prefer to use the Canadian tactic of a stern tie when we need to secure the stern while at anchor. We have 300 feet of floating line on a converted hose reel and pay it out, put it around a tree or a ring in the wall and bring it back to the boat.

We have a spare anchor that we have used as a stern anchor. A 13 ib. Danforth with 10 feet of chain and 100 feet of rode that is all contained in a plastic milk crate and stows nicely in the forward storage area under the V-berth.
 
I'm considering getting a box anchor as a second anchor. They are a relatively recent innovation that appears to work exceedingly well in soft bottoms - not clear how well in rock or other bottom types. They have a few advantages: fold flat; don't need any chain; set easily and come free easily. In the past I've used small Danforth's as second anchors, so this would be an experiment. I like the idea of compact storage and no extra chain to lug around.
 
Hmmmmmmmmm...seems to be a divergence of views here that follows a similar line of thought -- only use stern anchors when in calm water conditions, such as coves, protected bays, etc.

That's exactly when I was intending to use them...and so I think I'll take advantage of the discount card I received from Fisheries Supplies when I took delivery of my new boat last week to buy one of the suggested anchors/rodes.

Thanks, again, for the suggestions.

J
 
All anchors require chain and rode, with the exception of the box anchor. Rope won't hold the anchor in the correct position to set properly, but I'm sure some people will chime in and say that yes it's possible. If you look at how most anchors are designed, they must be dropped vertically, then let down flat so that the flukes can dig into the ground. Chain is heavy and sinks to the bottom, when you pull the chain back the chain stays on the bottom and allows the anchor to dig in.

As a recommendation for a 2nd anchor I'd suggest getting the box anchor as it's breaks down flat, and only requires 2-1 scope. I have the large box anchor for my 25' express cruiser and it works better then any other anchor I've seen (which is only Danforth style) and with way less setting/resetting, paying out enough scope, etc...
 
Pardon my ignorance here, but what does 2 to 1 scope mean?
 
2-1 scope means that if you are anchoring in 10 feet of water you need to let out 20 feet (2 times more rope then depth) of chain/rode in order to have the proper scope. Most anchors require at least 4-1 scope, but recommend 7-1. So in 10 feet of water a standard anchor requires you to let out 40-70 feet of rope/chain in order to maintain scope. To get more specific you are really talking about the angle of the anchor to the ground. If you take an easy value like 2-1 scope you are basically making a 45 degree angle between the anchor's flukes and the anchor's shank. Most anchors will not properly dig into the sea bed at a 45 degree angle which is why they require more scope. As the scope increases, i.e. more rope/chain you let out, the angle decreases.
 
So after reading this thread and then researching the box anchor, we took the plunge! Bought a "small box anchor" from WM (cost $144) had 150ft of line already from a previous anchor, used a stainless locking D-Ring to connect and then over the side! We anchored 3 times over the fourth and only slipped one time! this was in a large bed of eel grass and it held for over an hour and started to slip on the incoming tide, figure we did not have enough scope out for the rising waters.

I would highly recommend this product. It was relatively cheap, easy to use and the Admiral was very happy in it's use! Hope this helps.

Drew
 
I hang a 7 lb fortress off the bow rail where it is easy to deploy. In an emergency it would take to long to have to assembly one you have in storage. The rode is draped neatly over the anchor and is tied off to a cleat. Ready to go. I can lay it on the deck close to the rail and get the dink, reach up and grab it and use it for stern or second bow anchor. Placing it with the dink. The aluminum fortress is much easier to handle in the dink. I use only a short chain with it to keep it easy. I keep a 32 lb storm anchor with about 15 ft' of heavy chain on the other bow rail. Makes for better sleeping. Wire all shackles. I learned all of these things the hard way including being very selective where I would use a stern anchor. It took two lessons for that one to sink in. :roll: Always back down with the engine to set the main anchor and don't stack the chain on top of the anchor before backing down. A fowled anchor is no anchor.
captd
 
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