Looking to add solar panel to 2008 R25.

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We have done fine with the Kyocera 135 watt (currently selling a 140watt) and the morningstar controller. Needless to say more watts more charge. It is a compromise of what space you want on top verses wattage capacity. Plus if you go too large in width then you will not be able to open your hatches. Here is a link to Kyrocera. https://www.emarineinc.com/kyocera-140-watt-12-volt-solar-panel-fixed-frame
 
I am also considering adding a solar panel this spring to our R 25 2008. The 140 watt Kyocera unit seems the logical choice.Any information on how the wires are run and connected to the batteries, as well as location and connection of the controller, would be of great value. Also wondering how the panel is clamped to the roof rack.
 
I just added a second solar panel to our R27. I was surprised at how straightforward the process was. Of course we already had a controller that would support the second panel which made it way simpler. Even so, based on what I learned I don't think it would be too difficult from scratch. Like most projects on the boat the biggest challenge is routing the wires and drilling holes in the boat! :shock:

Kyocera has replaced the 140 watt panel with a 145 watt panel with the same dimensions, which is what I used (more power is good!). I purchased my new panel from Arizona Wind and Sun as they were having a sale at $250. We have the factory Morningstar Sunsaver Duo controller. The "duo" name is regarding the ability to charge and measure two batteries and has nothing to do with the number of solar panels. The number of solar panels you connect in parallel is limited to the max current rating of the controller. The factory option is the Sun Saver Duo which is limited to 25amps and is good for two 145W Kyocera Solar Panels whIch put out about 10W max each. It is my understanding that the controller is current limited such that you could add a third panel but it would limit the available charge current to 25amps even on the sunniest days.

Think of a solar panel is similar to a battery that varies its voltage and current based on the sun. Neither the battery or panel are smart and the power provided will be limited by the lower of the two voltages which will likely be the battery. The controller is put in between similar to a regulator to provide some control over the current applied to the battery.

The SunSaver Duo controller is a Simple PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) controller as opposed to the newer more efficient (and more expensive) MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) controller. In short, the MPPT controller will enable you to get the maximum power out of your panel. With a PWM controller the current battery voltage is going to limit the actual charge achieved. Here is a link to more information than you ever want to know:

https://www.solar-electric.com/mppt-sol ... lers.html/

If I were starting from scratch I would use an MPPT controller.

The solar panel is similar to a battery. Just a positive and negative connection. Make sure you cover the panel to keep out sunlight when you are working with it as it will produce power at the terminals whenever there is light on the panel. The Kyocera panel has a junction box to connect the positive and negative wires just like a battery. I would recommend at least marine 10 gauge stranded wire rated for outdoor use. The panel supplier may also be able to supply the recommended wire. The wires connect to the solar panel in a sealed junction box. I added spade terminals to the wires (as the factory did) before installing, though the panel instructions show just using the bare wire on the screw terminals. You will need to use two rubber grommets where the wire enters the junction box to keep moisture out. My panel came with them but you should be able to order them separately from the panel supplier to match your wire profile if needed.

The panel connects to the sport rack via Sea Dog 1" rail mount brackets http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/2167-rail ... cket-round . You will have to drill 8 holes in the solar panel frame at the proper location for your sport rack. I would recommend using thread locker on the Sea Dog supplied nuts or change them out for nylon locking nuts. You don't want them vibrating loose! It is a pain tightening them in place when you are on the roof of the tug under the panel!

Our controller is mounted on the aft wall of the port cockpit locker (generator and battery switch locker for the R27). The SunSaver Duo can charge two batteries so on our boat one battery charge output is connected to one of the ACRs and the other to the other ACR (factory installation). That way all three batteries will eventually be charged when the ACRs close.

We also have a remote meter that shows the charge current for each battery as well as battery voltage and total amp hours etc. It is a separate kit from Morningstar if you want it. Nice to know how much charge the panels are delivering. Ours is mounted at the entrance to the v-berth but you could mount it somewhere more convenient for post factory installation I'm sure.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Curt
 
I'm doing the same this spring. I just received the following from Amazon:

HQST 100 Watt 12 Volt Polycrystalline Solar Panel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018BOK9WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

GOCHANGE 20A 12V/24V PWM Solar Panel Solar Regulator Charge Controller LCD USB Charge Port
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CQHT5BO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sun YOBA 5 Pairs of MC4 Male/ Female Solar Panel Cable Connectors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8TRKJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All for a total of $129.00. The price was so cheap I couldn't pass it up, and I'll be replacing two 18W panels that I installed 9 years ago, so it should be a great boost in power production. If it goes well, i may be adding a second.

I've received everything. The quality of the solar panel is really good, the controller is nice for the price paid, and the connectors will let me make the necessary length cables. We could stay 2 days on the hook, running the fridge the whole time, when the old system was producing well so I expect a huge performance boost here.
 
EJFCruisers":1jhy0mau said:
Have a look at this 150W Kyocera solar-charging kit for your boat. https://www.amazon.com/Kyocera-Solar-Pa ... op?ie=UTF8. $300 with free shipping; MC4 connectors, PVM controller, and 40 ft of 12AWG cable.
Ed
Click to expand...


That seems like a really good price. The only issue I see about it is the lack of marine grade wire and electronics but others more knowledgeable, hopefully, will chime in.
 
The wire looks fine. Tin plated stranded copper with a jacket rated for UV. Not sure about the controller though. No specs given for how it is sealed. The factory supplied SunSaver Duo states the electronics are enclosed in epoxy. The price for the whole kit however is about the same as the price of an equivalent panel alone so if the controller fails you are not out much.

Another thing to consider is the controller charges only one battery bank. There is some discussion on another thread about whether there is enough voltage from the solar panel such that the house/engine ACR will combine and result in engine battery charging as well anyway. Even if not, as long as you are not looking to use this to keep your engine battery topped off as well it should be fine.
 
Just got the package that Doke01 posted. Looking forward to keeping the battery topped of while in storage. Thebilge pump would cycle on/off due to rain getting into the bilge.Problem solved...
 
what kind of wire do you suggest to make cables for the install of this system?
 
Thanks for all the good info. I went with the Sunsaver Duo charge controller and a Renogy100W panel. I just couldn't bring myself to pay the higher price for the Kyocera. Now to figure out how to route the wiring.
 
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