Lost steering

[Boatagain]

Had an interesting experience yesterday that I hope others can learn from.

We were out for a short cruise yesterday on the Chesapeake. Winds were 16-21 knots out of the south and waves 2-3 feet. Heading north with following seas and the autopilot on I noticed a slight change in the sound of the engine and the boat began wandering off course. The autopilot had been struggling a bit with the following seas so, for the first thirty seconds or so I didn’t think much of it. Taking control of the wheel with Shadow Drive I quickly realized that I had no steering at all. Aside from the obvious downsides of losing steering I had my newly pregnant and very nauseous daughter on board. The boat was now drifting helplessly and when it turned so that the seas were abeam we were rolling back and forth like a crazed bobble-head.

I opened the access hatch under the reversible transom seat and, lo and behold, the hydraulic ram had come completely off of the tiller arm. Lying on my (big) belly with me and some wrenches flying to and fro from the boat’s motion I managed to reconnect the ram by screwing it into the threaded tiller arm fixture and then tightening the jam nut that was supposed to keep this from happening. Back at the dock I re-did it all to be sure all was tight. Daughter kept it all down.

Lesson: Add checking the tiller arm hardware to the almost infinite list of pre-cruise checklist items. Hope this helps someone out.

 

[JamesTXSD]

Good that you were able to trouble-shoot the issue and get it resolved. When driving commercial boats, I would generally have a 45-60 minute prep time each day, before the first trip (steering mechanism was part of that prep). I don't know if Ranger/Cutwater has any kind of emergency tiller - on that size boat, generally a lever arm made to attach to the rudder post in case of a loss of steering emergency. I never had to depend on that emergency tiller, but on a couple occasions, I had to demonstrate its use during a Coast Guard inspection... it was never pretty, but it would get you home (or close to home) with a steering failure.

Kudos to you for handling the situation.

 

[BradOwens]

Another reason I love having bow and stern thrusters. Useful for emergency steering!

 

[Boatagain]

I’m not sure what exactly made me look at the tiller first, mostly luck I guess.

In those conditions, the thrusters were next to useless.

Anyone have a design or a source for an emergency tiller for our boats?

 

[bob daily]

A underground valve wrench like the (orbit 53246 - 28in steel curb key) could be modified to fit your tiller arm, in an emergency but then you would need two people one for throttle and one to operate the tiller. You can get them at any hardware store. Would work fine as long as you have a straight access to the tiller from above.

 

[TexasEye]

My Tug is on the trailer in the driveway, so, I walked outside opened the access and got down on my fat belly to see a jam nut rolled all the way back!!!!!

I was curious, so I found the ram shaft only holding on by 3 threads!!!

Problem corrected.

Thanks Boat Again, no telling what disasters and/or excitement you prevented...


Tex

 

[Boatagain]

Ok everyone! Get up, down and/or out to your boats and get down on your bellies of whatever girth to check that tiller connection! Mine was obviously not an isolated incident.

On a separate but related note, several weeks back there was a thread on here about loose motor mounts. I checked mine at the time and two of them were loose, one of which could be turned easily by hand. Hmmm...wonder if my boat was built on a Monday or Friday? 😉

 

[Barry Cohen]

A couple of years ago, my wife and I were pulling up to the fuel dock at Point Independence Yacht Club (PIYC) in Onset on Cape Cod as part of our annual two week vacation. Yes, pulling up to the FUEL DOCK! Suddenly, I noticed YOLO had no steering. Did I mention that we were pulling up to the FUEL DOCK?!? Luckily, we we barely under headway and I was able to use the thrusters to get out to the mooring field and avoid the FUEL DOCK! We got on to a mooring and received assistance from the PIYC Dockmaster. He went right to the rudder and saw that the arm was totally disconnected. A quick fix with a crescent wrench. This could have been a disaster if we rammed the FUEL DOCK!

I check that connection at the beginning of every season.

 

[BB marine]

I yearly inspect the steering arm and apply a small amount of lubricant to the joints at the cylinder and tiller arm, grease the rudder post bushing too. I have never inspected what type of jam nut is used but I will now after this topic. The mounting hardware seemed tight ( I just reach down and grab the cylinder to feel for tightness). The hardware should be, flat washer under the grade 5 bolt head and flat washer under the (corrosion resistant) self- locking nut, torqued to 43 ftlbs. A standard nut with lock washer should not be used in this application for the reasons stated in this topic. From general inspection the install in my boat appears to be properly done, a mirror and a couple wrenches will tell the story next time I'm at the boat. It is hard to believe if the proper nut is installed and properly torqued that the nut and bolt would fall off. Two recent topics improperly installed steering cylinders and now steering cylinders falling off. Quality control! Fluid Motion, Quality control! Ranger Tugs and Cutwaters are awesome boats but, quality control.

On a separate but related note, several weeks back there was a thread on here about loose motor mounts. I checked mine at the time and two of them were loose, one of which could be turned easily by hand. Hmmm...wonder if my boat was built on a Monday or Friday?

I have on occasions wanted to change the name of our boat to "FRIDAY" I wonder the same thing as you!

 

[TexasEye]

I yearly inspect the steering arm and apply a small amount of lubricant to the joints at the cylinder and tiller arm, grease the rudder post bushing too. I have never inspected what type of jam nut is used but I will now after this topic. The mounting hardware seemed tight ( I just reach down and grab the cylinder to feel for tightness). The hardware should be, flat washer under the grade 5 bolt head and flat washer under the (corrosion resistant) self- locking nut, torqued to 43 ftlbs. A standard nut with lock washer should not be used in this application for the reasons stated in this topic. From general inspection the install in my boat appears to be properly done, a mirror and a couple wrenches will tell the story next time I'm at the boat. It is hard to believe if the proper nut is installed and properly torqued that the nut and bolt would fall off. Two recent topics improperly installed steering cylinders and now steering cylinders falling off. Quality control! Fluid Motion, Quality control! Ranger Tugs and Cutwaters are awesome boats but, quality control.

On a separate but related note, several weeks back there was a thread on here about loose motor mounts. I checked mine at the time and two of them were loose, one of which could be turned easily by hand. Hmmm...wonder if my boat was built on a Monday or Friday?

I have on occasions wanted to change the name of our boat to "FRIDAY" I wonder the same thing as you!

I've checked my Mounts several times, probably 4 times a year, the alignment (shaft) is perfect, but to achieve perfect alignment it left the front nuts showing no threads which is a No-Go in Aviation. I talked with the last shop where she was serviced before I purchased her and they said that was normal on the Tugs. I haven't asked here so "Is it Normal" to have Engine Mount nuts not showing threads? ANSI-ISO require one thread protruding with the Industry Rule of Thumb as two full threads should show...

 

[BB marine]

Sorry to highjack your topic Boatagain. One full thread showing is a bolting standard. I can't comment if it is normal on the Tugs. I can comment on it is not normal to run out of adjustment with a good motor mount. Marine engine manufactures design an engine and provide installation dimensions. Boat builders design the boat to except the engine options offered. The engine bed or stringer is molded to a designed elevation and the strut and shaft log are positioned correctly so the engine should be aligned close to engines coupling center line and the middle of the engine mount travel. The big variable has always been the installation of the strut and engine location. Many boat builders that produce several boats at one time (assembly line) made motor mount jigs. These jigs had motor mount drill templets so that all engines were mounted in the exact location and a saddle with a dummy shaft would be used to set the strut, log and shaft close to the engines center line. This sets the X/Y dimension. The engine mounts were then used to do the final alignment to be with in .003 horizontal and vertical.

If the X/Y dimension is not correct then the options are move the strut or in the case of the Ranger Tug or Cutwater the keel extension. Or shim the engine. In your case you have good alignment but close to the end of adjustment travel. Your option would be to make 1/4" shims to place under to motor mount feet. If you do this I would recommend 1/2 longer lag bolts. then realign the engine. You should have gained enough adjustment to have several threads showing.

 

[TexasEye]

Yep, I agree, bolt must have threads fully engaged in nut for load to be properly secure.

I think the first step is to make sure the alignment is correct, I might be wrong.

Thanks again, great help. Investigating


Tex