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Jerold Geisenheimer

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Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLt2919c909
Vessel Name
Joint Venture
I own an R-29 and plan to install a transom zinc anode. How thick is transom? Is it doable and adviseable? Also what routine maintenace is recommended for the waste system. Are there replaceable filters? Where is access? Thanks for any feed back.
Jerry Geisenheimer, Ft Myers, FL. Joint Venture.
 
Jerold Geisenheimer":1oj123ub said:
I own an R-29 and plan to install a transom zinc anode. How thick is transom? Is it doable and adviseable? Also what routine maintenace is recommended for the waste system. Are there replaceable filters? Where is access? Thanks for any feed back.
Jerry Geisenheimer, Ft Myers, FL. Joint Venture.

I assume that zinc anodes are mounted to submerged metal parts to protect them by being the first point for electrical conductivity. I do not think that they would work mounted to a non metallic area of the hull. Correct me if I am wrong, I am sure someone more knowledgeable will weigh in here. However, I can see your point if the transom zinc was connected to the ground system and if all the submerged metal was bonded to each other and the ground system. You may get another layer of protection. Here is a link to more conversation about hull zincs. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1528&p=11018&hilit=hull+zinc#p11018
 
Jerry: I have an R-27 on order and I'm very interested in your zinc topic. Does your 29 have a hull zinc mounted on the transom, below the water line as Herb mentioned? If not and you're wanting to install one it will need to be connected to the bonding system to be effective, again as Herb states. I'd suggest talking with a service tech at Ranger to learn of their logic or reasoning why they do or do not have a transom plate zinc. On our last boat we had none however we had a prop, shaft, rudder shaft and rudder pancake zinc. For additional electrolysis protection we purchase a large zinc that was attached to a wire and had a clip at the other end. When we were at dock, which is where you want to be concerned with stray electrical current, I connected the clip to a bonded part inside the boat and hung the zinc overboard into the water. This method would be an alternative option to drilling holes in your transom.
 
The parts list for the R29 lists the following zincs:
Prop zinc
Trim tab zinc
Thruster zincs
Mixing elbow engine zinc. Same as air cooller zinc
Gen. Zinc 4KW Mase

Zincs typically are attached to metal parts so they can be sacrificed instead of the metal they are attached to. Zincs should only be attached to a hull if the hull were made of metal.

I would not attach anything to the hull unless I really had to. Additional holes in the hull can cause leaks which can cause problems. Also, if you attached the zinc to the hull, it would have to be replaced at least once a year, which allows for additional possible leaks/problems.

If you are really concerned about it, I recommend you contact Andrew at the factory to get his recommendations.
 
If you are concerned about electrolysis in a marina there are zinc "fish" that can be hung over the side and clipped to a point on the bonding system on your hull. That is a much easier solution if you are primarily worried about stray currents in a particular location. I don't really have any idea how well they work, just know they are available. Maybe someone has personal experience or knowledge about them.

We used to hang one off the stern of our sailboat when in marinas which had us antsy. As they mention in the link below it is easier on most sailboats since many manufacturers tie the shrouds and chainplates to the ship's bonding system.

Here is a typical one:

http://www.boatzincs.com/hanging_anode_zinc.html
 
There has been a long going controversary (long subject for another day) if boat's metal objects which are in contact with water (in any form--including bilge, wet stringers etc) need to be bonded together or not. If Ranger has not put on a sacraficial zinc, then there is most likely a good reason for it. But ask Andrew Curtis.

Boats used to be all bonded and all had zincs on the transom or some other place where there was little risk of slowing the boat because of the water flow over the zinc plate. Most boats still have zincs on the shafts, prop nut, inside of engine cooling systems (heat exchangers on the transmission oil, engine oil and engine cooling systems). These zincs need to be replaced as part of routine maintenance.

Some folks apparently have not owned boats with external zincs. There are one or two bolts (depending on size and location of the zinc) which are permently attatched to the hull. The inner head of the bolt is permently attatched to the bonding system. This should not be confused with the negative battery system, a radio RF ground or the 110 volt ground system. If present this is a system which uses solid copper wires and or straps to bond together all thru hulls and other metals.

These bolts which hold the zinc in place, are in holes thru the hull which should be epoxy lined if a cored hull. The outside of the bolt will have a flat washer and then a nut to hold that boat permently in the hull--the bolt is sealed with something like 4200. There is no chance of leaks, more than any penetration into the hull. The bolt is long enough, that there are holes in the zinc plate, which the bolts go thru, and then there is another flat washer, a lock washer and a nut outside of the zinc plate. Thus the zinc can be easily replaced in the water without any risk of leaks--and yet is tied into the bonding system.
 
Thank you all for your thoughful replies regarding installation of the transom zinc. After much thought I decided to go with the "grouper" which is the zinc fish that is placed overboard when docked. This seemed to be the simplist and least invasive. I also have a galvanic isolator which combined should be adequate. Now I just have to figure out how to to keep the prop zinc in place. Any ideas?
 
Replace the prop nut. The nut installed at the factory allows to much "slop" between the nut and zinc. This causes them to spin off. The folks at Yachtfish Marine showed this too me when we had the bottom redone in December....
 
Finally, an explanation for my prop zinc always falling off almost as soon as I drop the boat in the water! Anyone know where you can buy the prop-nut assembly for an R25?
 
Also consider using blue thread-lock compound (bond breaks mechanically without heat) on the threads when you install the zinc. E.g. Loctite@ blue or equivalent.
 
Jerry
To your original question of the transom zinc, along with replacment of the other zinc's, I had one installed on my R29, Shared Dream prior to moving the boat to the east coast. I also had a galvanic isolator installed. You can view a picture of the transom zinc in my albumn, Shared Dream II, then go into the albumn titled East Coast Retrofit. As you can see, there are two bolts that hold the zinc in place and the bolts are bonded to ground. Together they create an additional layer of protection for the boat. Both items were added after a conversation with Andrew. We considered the boat, location, and use prior to deciding to add the items as this isn't a universal need.
 
I hang a zinc fish off the stern when in a marina... Used here in fresh water Great Lakes it is 2 years old and looking like new... We spent a week in salt water in FLorida in February and the fish looks like it went through a war, pitted, rough and whitish deposits, as does the prop zinc... Now, this was not a good marina - it looked like a junk yard with makeshift electric with extension cords running hither and yon so it was not just the salt water... Keep your groupers 'fish on!'...
 
Jerry: To answer your questions on where to buy a prop nut that fits properly? I've used a company called Boat Zincs. You can look things up online or call them. I've found if you provide them with the proper information about your engine, shaft size or type of prop they'll make sure you get the right zincs, nuts, etc. Their online web sight is http://www.boatzincs.com and their prices are considerably less then what I've found at my local marine store.
 
The R 29 is now fitted with a large Zinc plate on the stern . The last one we sold [April] was the first one I have seen with a factory installed Zinc . It is now standard at least on the R 29s . Perhaps Andrew could chime in on the 27s and 25s . My guess is that so few are trailered , it makes sense to put them on 29s.
Marc
 
Question. To what does one attach the clip at the end of a hanging zinc on the R25? Thanks, Kit
 
To one of the places where a green bonding wire is . They are all connected together.
Marc
 
Kit, I have mine hooked to the negative post on the battery set... The battery negative is common (i.e. hooked to) to the Green bonding wire...
The fish resides in in one of the cup holders on the stern rail... It is attached with insulated, fine stranded wire that I can coil up and leave on top of the batteries when underway... At the dock I lift the battery hatch, lower the fish into the water and let the hatch back down on the wire, pinching it (gently) and suspending the fish in the water... Crude but effective... This has worked for the past two seasons... You do have to remember to lift the fish when underway...
 
Although, you could add some hooks to the fish and just leave in the water while under way. Kidding! Thank you for that info/reply, much appreciated. Kit
 
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