Mase 2.7

B

Boatdreamer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2012
Messages
266
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Non-Fluid Motion Model
17 Keywest
Vessel Name
Gratitude
I'm going to do the annual service on our 2012 R27. I have 110 hours on her but I think it's time to do it before the weather cools down and we can use her more. I have already changed the engine oil and filter, the trans oil and cleaned the screen. This time I'm doing both fuel filters, engine and boat zincs, gen set oil, and while it's sitting in my driveway, I'm going to do the water pump impeller. I made a copy of the step by step for changing the water pump impeller that someone was kind enough to post on Tugnuts a while back. Thank you for doing that, you made it look easy. Two question, anything I should know about changing the genset oil? And what else should I be looking at? I see some are checking the shaft alignment, does anyone have instructions for that? Thanks

Tim
Gratitude R 27
 
Assume Mase has both fuel and oil filters. Change them. Also check anodes on generator as well as boat. How many hours / years on generator? may want to change that impeller as well.
 
Make sure you have the proper size filter strap wrench for the secondary filter at the engine. It is a larger filter than the primary. Also, this original filter is known to be super tight. It is also very tight to the engine and bracket so I found that the standard metal strap is the only one that will slip in.
Just a side note, I had to chuckle that you want to do it before the weather cools down. Good thing you aren't in the northeast!
 
Thanks Todd and knotflying, good information. I did forget about the genset fuel filter, I don't think it has an oil filter maybe a screen. I left the manuals on the boat so I can't look it up until tomorrow. I got lucky with the oil filter wrench for the fuel filter, just happen to have one in an old tool box I haven't used in years. We'll see how it all turns out this weekend. Yea, we don't use Gratitude much in the summer, it's just too hot and I don't want to run the A/C and genset all the time we are out enjoying the water. Fall, winter, and spring are on the way, and we are getting ready to put some hours on the clock this year, plus we will be at the SW Florida event in February. Thanks again.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Another Mase 2.7 question.....My Mase turn off by itself today while running at anchor. The code was an E-82 which is for overheat. My initial thoughts were the impeller and or sea strainer. I close the seacock to take the sea strainer out and although not full of debris it appear it had the remnants of a jellyfish in the screen housing. I cleaned it and reinstalled and restarted the genset but no water came out so I moved onto the impeller. I took it out and to my surprise it was in perfect condition so I reinstalled, started engine and no exhaust water came out and the pulley belt is attached and going around just fine. I then closed the seacock and took the sea strainer back off, opened the seacock and no water comes in. I'm thinking I should have water coming in....has anyone else experienced this and or have some advice for me?

On the hook in Bainbridge Island,

Jim F
 
Hi Jim, have you tried back flushing the generator intake yet, sounds like something is blocking it. Try using you raw water wash down hose to supply water to the sea strainer and see if you have water coming out the exhaust then. If you still don't have water, time to check the hoses for blockage, jelly fish are bad at getting sucked up any intake. Good luck.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Tim:

Shaft alignment checkout info for you...

Shaft alignment is the alignment of the engine's output shaft from the gearbox to the prop shaft. Too much mis-alignment means unwanted stress on the gearbox output shaft's bearing. Proper alignment is therefore crucial to avoid premature bearing failure. The alignment, if needed, requires the 4 engine mounts to be adjusted. My Yanmar mechanic indicated he has come to expect Ranger Tugs to have no issues with alignment as the Ranger Tug factory assembly folks do a great job.

To quickly determine if the shaft alignment is in need of adjustment one simply reaches down to the prop shaft (the shiny piece of shaft between the gearbox output and the stuffing box) and grab it and turn it with throttle lever in neutral position. If it turns freely the alignment is typically in good shape. However, if it's hard or stiff to turn or worse still one has to use a wrench to turn the shaft the alignment is in need of adjustment.
 
Hi Jim,
I had a problem like yours but noticed greatly reduced water out the genset exhaust when checking after starting it. With the strainer cover off I only had a trickle when the sea cock was open. I tried blowing it out with a hand held sport horn (after removing the hose to the genset and covering the strainer outlet with my finger) and got bubbles outside but this did not clear it. I finally went into the water and felt the inlet, it was covered with growth. I scraped it away and problem solved.

Next spring before launch I need to do something better to repel marine growth on the inlet.

Howard
 
Thanks baz, I will be doing all the work tomorrow and Sunday, now I'll know what to look for on that issue. I'm really trying to dig in and learn about our boats, I want to be self sufficeint when we start traveling to the Bahamas next year. I welcome ideas on other items I should be looking at also.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Tim,

You may want to clean and re-oil the engine air filter, I use a K&N kit for this. You have pretty low hours for changing the secondary fuel filter, I am going to wait until 250 hours before changing mine.

Regarding the genset oil change, it is just like any motor, warm it up, shut down, suck it out, and re-fill. Check the Mase manual for proper grade. It takes less than one quart.There is an oil screen but it is not to easy to access, I have not touched it. The anode is accessed under the top cover, you will see it at the back of the heat exchanger. I use a rag under it but have never had any seawater drain out when removing it.

Have fun with the engine impeller. I was able to change mine from inside the cabin, I could get my upper body and one arm through the hatch in the step. I was able remove and install the belt using the opening from the cave.

Howard
 
trailertrawlerkismet":3iy8v4gk said:
Another Mase 2.7 question.....My Mase turn off by itself today while running at anchor. The code was an E-82 which is for overheat. My initial thoughts were the impeller and or sea strainer. I close the seacock to take the sea strainer out and although not full of debris it appear it had the remnants of a jellyfish in the screen housing. I cleaned it and reinstalled and restarted the genset but no water came out so I moved onto the impeller. I took it out and to my surprise it was in perfect condition so I reinstalled, started engine and no exhaust water came out and the pulley belt is attached and going around just fine. I then closed the seacock and took the sea strainer back off, opened the seacock and no water comes in. I'm thinking I should have water coming in....has anyone else experienced this and or have some advice for me?

On the hook in Bainbridge Island,

Jim F
Click to expand...

Jim, we had the same problem. It was a piece of sea grass that was stuck in the fitting going into the filter screen from the sea cock. A long slender blade of grass had folded up in the hose at the fitting. You should have a full flow of water when the strainer is removed and the seacock is opened.
 
Jim: Check out Clearing Seawater Intake thread posted August 5 2013
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions for clearing my thru hull for our Genset, I'll get to work on it today.

Jim F
 
Thanks Howard for the info. I did some of the work yesterday and I'll do more today. I got all the oils, filters (not the secondary fuel filter) and screens cleaned yesterday. I also did all the zincs on the engine, question on this one. Is it normal for the bottem zinc to be completely gone? The top one looked good, I think it's in the water only when we are running. The prop shaft turned free so I guess we are good on that issue. So far I have about four hours invested. It will go faster next time becouse I'll have the right wrench for the engine zincs. Today is football and water pump impeller day, go niners!!! Thanks everyone for all the great information. I know if I have a problem, I can just post it and someone will respond with a solution.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Tim: As Mike has posted, the lower engine anode sits in water all the time whereas the upper one is dry when engine not running. One thing to be aware of with the engine anodes is that they may look good (not corroded) simply with a visual inspection, BUT if you squeeze the pencil anode between your thumb and index finger the anode will collapse/crush easily. This is because the anode has been eaten away on the inside leaving the just the outer shell and 'pretending' to be intact. So always perform the squeeze test even if the anode looks like it's in good shape.

Also, check with http://www.boatzincs.com/ for the engine anodes as a set of 2 can be obtained for about $12 plus a S&H charge. You can even buy just the anode and save your current bolt head by removing the old anode and screwing in a new one. This doesn't always work though as some Tugnuters have reported their engine anode isn't screwed in to the bolt head. If you still have the old anodes you removed check to see if the anode can be unscrewed from the bolt head, and if it can you can save the bolt head for the next anode replacement task.

For more info on the engine anodes read the post at http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3500&p=25971&hilit=boatzinc#p25971
 
Here's what I learned about working on a boat. If you think something is going to take one hour, plan on two. If you think you have all the tools, make sure you have a hardware or a big box home improvement store nearby, you'll need it. The oil and oil filter changes went fine as I have done them before. The engine and genset zincs went OK after I got a 7/8 crows foot to torque the new ones in. Then came the fuel filter in the fuel/water seperator assy. I knew I was in for a fun time when I couldn't get the drain plug out. Then the sensor plug wouldn't come out. So I disconnected the wiring harness and tried to twist the whole filter off. No dice. Time to dig out the oil filter wrench. Had the right size so I thought I was good to go. No way. I ended up ripping the mounting screws out of the star board that the mount is screwed to. OK now the hose clamps are coming off and the assy is coming out. No way, the hoses wouldn't come off the hose barbs, so I cut them. Out came the whole thing. Now the real fun begins. I don't have a vise ( at least not that I 'll admit too!!!) so the next best thing is two vise-grips on the trailer beam. Ok this time it came apart. Now I still need to get the bottom off and the drain plug loose. I wedged the bottom part of the filter assy between the forward V in the trailer and broke it loose. A 30 minute job took close to three hours! Now the storm is building and I didn't have time to do the water pump impeller. Next weekend for that. Has anyone installed a Racor 500 in place of the factory setup? I need the model number and any other information you might have. I don't ever want to deal with the Yanmar setup again. The good lesson here is I'm really leaning our boat and getting the right tools to do the right job. Glad this happened in the driveway not out on the water.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Tim, the first filter change is a tough one. I think Yanmar has a gorilla tighten the filters. Your observations are also spot on. Let us know how the impeller goes. And wait until the next day when you have bruises in places you never knew you had.
 
Thanks baz for the information on the zincs. I saved to old ones and I'll try to order just the zinc and see how it turns out. Knotflying, you have no idea how right you are about the aches and pains the next day. It's hard to admit, but I'm not as young as I used to be and this past weekend proved it. Thanks for all the input.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Tim, gosh darn, I'm feeling all bruised up and exhausted just reading that. Because I know that's how it will be. But you did make me laugh , and that is worth a lot.

Gini
 
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