Mase generators

Jerold Geisenheimer":jvoevr8z said:
I am having an issue with my Mase 4KW generator as it now shuts off after a couple of minutes with an "E87 error code". Essentially saying there is insufficient voltage output. I will have it serviced once we return from Canada and let you all know the outcome/output. Luckily we can live without the generator as we spend most of anchorages at marinas. Married guys will understand.

Hi Jerold,

I know that this is an old post/thread, but I’m wondering what your technician found on this E87 matter.
I have had this occur recently on my R29 Mase 4.0 generator, and I’m about to embark on troubleshooting.
This occurred mid-running for us, and now the e87/No voltage at all, with it cutting out after 30seconds after start.

I’d appreciate your response, if you are still on this forum/thread.

Many thanks,
Scott
 
RangerLove":1y24kzxk said:
I’m about to embark on troubleshooting…….the e87/No voltage at all, with it cutting out after 30seconds after start.
I have a Mase 2.7 on my 2012 R27 Classic and it had the exact same symptoms as your Mase 4. The E-87 error code on the Mase 2.7 generator usually indicates a bad capacitor. That was the problem on mine. A Mase tech told me E-87 can also be caused by water from a damaged heat exchanger leaking onto electronics.

I changed the capacitor on my Mase 2.7 with some key telephone help from another Tugnut who had replaced his.
 
CaspersCruiser":2ijbvh9w said:
RangerLove":2ijbvh9w said:
I’m about to embark on troubleshooting…….the e87/No voltage at all, with it cutting out after 30seconds after start.
I have a Mase 2.7 on my 2012 R27 Classic and it had the exact same symptoms as your Mase 4. The E-87 error code on the Mase 2.7 generator usually indicates a bad capacitor. That was the problem on mine. A Mase tech told me E-87 can also be caused by water from a damaged heat exchanger leaking onto electronics.

I changed the capacitor on my Mase 2.7 with some key telephone help from another Tugnut who had replaced his.

Brilliant... thank you CaspersCruiser.
I've read another couple of forums (outside of tugnuts) and they indicate the capacitor as a likely port of call, and/or the diode. If I'm ordering parts, I'm figuring I might order both just in case.

My question to you is - did you remove the generator unit from the boat, or manage to replace the capacitor with the unit in-situ?

In my case the removal of the generator is a bit of a project in terms of access, with it hemmed in by diesel furnace (easy to remove), but also water maker and various water and power lines/pipes and exhaust piping. However the access to the alternator end of the generator isn't great with it in-situ either (with me doing a fair bit by feel and reach-around iphone shots).

Thanks in advance for your response.
Scott
 
Had the E-87 code and run 30 sec and shut down. Replaced the Capicator and all is OK. Called Masa and ordered two CApicator, belt, WP impeller, and oil filter. Lady Knew what I needed and was a big help, don't have the 800 # here, but they have a dealer in Florida. On the RT 27 has to take the exhaust apart, pull the left side (rear) panel and as I recall maybe one other item to access the Capicator which is located in the back lower corner of the case (not very handy).
 
RangerLove":1g46v04t said:
My question to you is - did you remove the generator unit from the boat, or manage to replace the capacitor with the unit in-situ?
I was able to change the capacitor on my 2012 R27 without a removing the generator, which would be an involved process.

The capacitor is located on the lower left back side of the generator. The front and left side panels have to be removed and another panel on the left side interior has to be removed as well. I also had to loosen or remove some exhaust components that are external to the generator to gain room to work.

Some thoughts about the work:
1) You must work mostly blind removing and reinstalling the capacitor. I was able to use an inspection mirror to see how things were situated, but the work removing and reinstalling the capacitor was done blind.
2) The capacitor is held in a horizontal position by a plastic clamp. The capacitor must be pulled out of the clamp. It’s pretty tenacious. Accessing the clamp to loosen it is impossible.
3) The new capacitor supplied to me by Mase was 3/8” larger diameter than the old one on my generator. It would not fit the clamp or the plastic cap that protects the terminals on top of the capacitor. I had to get the larger cap from Mase, which they sent no charge, but I had to wait several days for it. So make sure you specify the new cap. The Mase tech was unaware of the discrepancy.
4) Since the new capacitor would not fit the old clamp, I wrapped the capacitor with thin cushioned material, rotated the clamp up out of the way and laid the capacitor in the same cavity. I hate doing stuff like that, but clamping it in place would require removing the generator for access. The capacitor and generator are still functioning fine after five hours of operation and the motion, jolting and jarring of 100+ hours of cruising and 4,000 miles of towing. I used the generator a couple days ago.
5) There is no polarity to the terminals on the capacitor. Either wire can go on either terminal.

Good luck! We’re all counting on you!
 
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