Motor mount replacement 21EC

[TylerFromEverett]

Hello,

I have a 2014 21EC with a Volvo D1-30 that was replaced in 2018. One of my motor mounts appears to be failing. The rubber bushing is separating from the mount and the mounting bolts appear to be stripped.

Questions:

Mount:

Does anyone know the best source for getting new mounts?
Best to replace all 4 rather than the one that’s failing?
Advice on DIY replacement? Seems pretty straight forward. Unhook a bunch of things, lift the motor, replace, reinstall everything, realign and take her for a spin to check for balance?

Stripped mounting holes:
Best remedy to fix? I’m thinking that it’s probably best to drill them out clean and fill them with epoxy, but I’ve not worked with epoxy much. I believe I read this repair recommendation on this forum. If this is the method, what kind of epoxy and what’s the step by step?

Thanks friends! I’m grateful for your help.

 

[Newf]

I have the same boat, same year and replaced the mounts a couple of years ago. I've noticed cracking in the rubber on the new ones so I will be replacing again in the near future. I will be trying a different mount on my next changeout. Hopefully I don't regret it as the VP mounts are not cheap.

I got my first set of replacement mounts from the dealer on Vancouver Island where I had purchased the boat. All 4 of my mounts were showing signs of fatigue and cracking in the rubber so I replaced all 4. Personally, I would not replace just 1 or 2 mounts only to have the others start to fail a few months down the road.

I was able to replace mine without removing anything from the engine. Just removed the lag bolts, used a pry bar to lift the corner to slide out the spacers and dropped the mount. I'm assuming you would have the same spacer blocks under your mounts as I do. I removed and replaced one corner at a time.

Before I started removal I checked the existing coupling alignment. I had a .030" difference from top to bottom. Should be .003" or better. Removed the bolts from the coupling to prevent any bending moment on the shaft when I lifted the engine at the corners. I also measured the existing height between the bottom of engine mounting brackets and the top of the spacers. Setting the new mounts to this height gave me a good starting point for coupling realignment. Also checked the cutlass bearing for play and was still good so did not replace.

I only had one hole that was stripped and it was the front hole in front starboard mount. I was able to drill through with a long bit without removing anything on the engine and I installed a through bolt instead of reinstalling the lag bolt. Stripped holes in some locations would required more work as you do not have straight up and down access to them without removing parts on the engine.

Good luck with your project and let us know how you make out.

 

[lproulx]

To clarify on the through bolt - through to outside of hull? Does the hull have a core of some sort? Any problem with the head of the bolt (presumably outside hull ) compressing or distorting the outside "skin".?

Larry

 

[Pilotnavigator]

Mount is through the engine pan not the hull. There is a space of several inches, access through the port where you open the raw water valve.

 

[Newf]

Hi Larry,

Sorry I wasn't clear in my post but I would not bolt through the hull. ha ha

As Pilotnavigator points out, there is a gap between the base support for the mounts and the hull as shown in this photo. As you can see there is an additional support added which appears to be about 1" thick and runs full length of the base from what I can see. Not sure if this is a piece of wood or some other material but it is fully glassed in. If I had access to all 4 mounts I would install through bolts everywhere because as others have pointed out in different threads, these lag bolts have stripped for some of the owners.