mounting a kicker on R-25

[normaloo]

I had a trolling valve installed on our R 25, 150 hp Yanmar but it is not what I expected it to be. I need to be able to slow down to between 1 and 2 knots when fishing sockeye salmon and the valve dosn't do the job. I would like to mount a 9.9 hp hi thrust Yamaha outboard on the swim grid. Does the grid have to be cut away to place the outboard closer to the transom so it will be out of the water when travelling? The Ranger dealer in our area says this has to be done. Has anybody had this modification done? Should the kicker be installed in the centre of the grid or would it be as effective mounted to one side? Hope someone can give me the right advice. Norm on NORMALOO TOO

 

[Ram]

When I got my R25 used a couple of years ago it had a Yamaha 9.9 mounted on a bracket that is bolted to the transom beneaththe swim platform and extends beyond and slightly above the platform. I had no use for the engine and didn't want to carry around the gas, etc., so the original owner kept the engine. The bracket is still there. I find it more of a nuisance than anything else as it interferes with getting my dinghy up on the swim platform. But if you really need a kicker I think thiis would be the way to go.

 

[m4boots]

Norm, I'm in the process of looking into my trolling valve also. My problem is too much play in the cable/lever (I think). I have just recently discovered there is a high/low speed adjustment screw on the KMH40A which may be the problem with your valve as I can dial mine right down till the prop is not turning at all. Andrew gave me the number of Land Sea and Power 1-866-948-5996 whom I'm dealing with now trying to sort this out. As far as a kicker mount, try the guys at Portboathouse in Port Alberni. I talked to them a bit about mounting a kicker when we bought our boat there and they knew of several options for doing the job.

 

[Zundels]

We bought a used 2009 R-25 that came with a custom mount for a kicker on the swim deck. I can send you pictures of the mount, if you send me your email address.

The mount is easy to create and attach and remove, with a few bolts.

Don

 

[Captain Starbucks]

Just dug up this old thread. I decided I didn't want another 150 lbs on the back of my boat, drilling/cutting/mounting an outboard and then have to deal with another engine to maintain and another fuel type to deal with.

I opted for the trolling valve and couldn't be happier. The installation was very simple, the hardest part was pulling the trigger on the 7/8" hole for the cable to go through the glass.

To install:

Remove 4 short bolts on top of the transmission on the small, rectangular plate. Remove all evidence of gaskets and clean the surface being careful to not get any old gasket material in the oil holes.
Mount new valve being careful to line up the holes on the xmsn to the holes on the valve. Torque to specs listed in the owners manual.
I chose to mount my cable below and forward of the washdown hose outlet and inline with the screw holes on the light for asthetics and to be above toe level. This way, it's low enough for the cooler tub to clear and out of the way of the hoses back there giving the cable a staight shot.
That's it. Very simple.

Here's how my ops check went:
Step 2 Start engine, untie boat, back out of slip.
Step 2a Pull back into slip, do step 1 remove forward window cover
Step 3 once I got in the a clear area and could manuver, I stopped the boat and slowly went from forward to reverse a few times. The xmsn was a little sluggish at first but after the initial few shifts, it was fine.
The valve will troll all the down to zero mph and all the way up to normal idle boat speed.

Don't forget no more than 1000 rpm with the trolling valve engaged or you'll gut the transmission.