Need trailer help for my 2014 25SC

Bob B.

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
47
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Vessel Name
Blue Honu
My trailer is an EZloader made for a 28 Cutwater ( 2012 ). It is an 11k dual axle trailer converted to carry my 25 SC. The scales tell me my boat and gear run between 9800K to 10600K depending on how much fuel or water and gear I wind up having left on board ... usually tow around 10, 000 lbs.

EZLoader says as long as I am under 11000 I should not have any worries relative to load bearing.

However ... I have had to replace two fender support brackets ( aluminum post between the wheels supporting fender and mounting to frame ) and have a third one that has a weld break and needs replacing before my next trip. I have also had to replace 2 disc brake flanges ( connect the brakes to the axles ).

I do not know if my torsion axles are worn out or I need a 3rd axle but I fear I have too much travel in my axles and the fender gets bumped under the hull and that pressure breaks the bracket - also if this is happening perhaps the disc brake, when grabbing the rotor, flexes the caliper bracket to the point of breaking (cracking) if the torsion axle has too much travel?

I am only guessing as to why this is happening but I can not continue to keep fixing these issues - happens almost every trip. I really need some assistance in trying to figure out the cause of this problem. EZloader has been great with getting me replacement parts but less than great in offering a solution. I can say my bearings and tires are cool when traveling.

Hope someone out there has some ideas for me.

Thanks,

Bob.
 
Bob I believe EZ Loader uses Dexter axels. Dexter specifies 3" fender clearance when fully loaded. This will allow for enough torsion rod travel "Bump clearance".

The center support brackets normally break from flexing. it is all about the weld and good penetration. Aluminum flexes a lot more than steel and generally will crack at the weld. A good three pass weld will usually take care of that.


Your Axels could be worn out. Was the trailer used for a C28? How many miles traveled with the C28 on the trailer? If unknown or known to be used for trailering the C28 for distances. I would suspect some wear to the rubbers in the torsion bar. There is no way I would want a C28 on a tandem trailer. I had a C26 and would not purchase the Factory EZ load trailer for my C26. It was marginal at best. I went with a Tri-axel may be over kill but it towed nicely!


Rather than a long explanation of how to inspect the torsion axel from me. This is a good guide to follow.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... eSCA-g5QVn
 
Thank you for the reply. I have no idea how many miles are on the trailer when loaded with the C28, I do know many had issues as it was grossly underrated for that boat as a tandem axle trailer, and EZloader went with a triple axle soon after.

Assuming the axles are worn out, is it worth replacing them or is a new trailer a better option in your opinion … either option is tough to consider, but we trailer thousands of miles a year so addressing this problem is necessary.

Thanks again,

Bob.
 
I have a 2008 EZ Loader and have had similar issues although not as frequent. I'm in the process of replacing an axle because of uneven tire wear (which by the way on mine, the axle is a custom EZ Loader) I am also at max of specification and have had one of the four bolts holding up the boat shear while underway. This has happened two times before I replaced them with Grade 8 bolts. One time, the only thing holding up the boat was my spare tire supporting the bow!
 
Here is an observation of what I suspect. I had the same issue with my Float-on trailer. I constantly had to repair the bracket etc. I purchased a new trailer last year for another boat and saw that the brackets from the I-beam to the fender was not fastened to the fender and the fender just rested on the bracket. I called the manufacturer and asked about the lack of connection. They told me to not fasten it. I did not question further, however, it dawned on me that the flex of the trailer probably put stress on the connection at the fenders and probably was the cause of all the stress cracks and wear on the fenders.
 
That is up to what is the cheaper option. I would assume new axels would be cheaper than a new trailer. I know a TugNut that is an active poster to this forum that does a lot of trailering. He has a R27 Ranger with the original factory trailer. He added a third axel and all his problems went away. The R25SC is not nearly has heavy has the R27, C26, or C28. The two axel trailer should be enough if the axels are heavy duty rated 5000 lbs EA. and not worn out.



Bob B.":1duukkmo said:
Thank you for the reply. I have no idea how many miles are on the trailer when loaded with the C28, I do know many had issues as it was grossly underrated for that boat as a tandem axle trailer, and EZloader went with a triple axle soon after.

Assuming the axles are worn out, is it worth replacing them or is a new trailer a better option in your opinion … either option is tough to consider, but we trailer thousands of miles a year so addressing this problem is necessary.

Thanks again,

Bob.
 
Thanks Brian,

That is what I figured, maybe5k give or take for new axles, maybe 20K for new trailer. I am thinking my axles are wearing out.

Bob.
 
Knotflying,

I will give the non fender attachment a thought. Interesting reply, thank you.

Bob
 
I’ve had to replace winches, axles (former trailer) and the entire electric over hydraulic brake system on my current trailer. If the main beams and tongue of the trailer are sound, the bunks in good condition, I’d repair and replace over buying new.
I’d think $5k for two torsion 6k or 7k rated disc brake axles would be on the high side. Besides, the wait time for new trailers is still pretty long last I heard.
 
Aluminum trailers are like spaghetti, they flex a lot. I have a float on trailer for my 27 ranger. I’ve calculated that I have about 45,000 miles of towing my R 27 2011. During this time I have had brake issues caused by dealer error on my electric over hydraulic. The dealer was not float on, Float On finally rectified the problem. On my way to Alaska I replaced my fenders because the flexing broke and cracked the original fenders even though I had reinforced them prior to the trip. The new fenders were 3/16 aluminum it worked fine for about 10,000 miles and then they started to crack also. Re-welded reinforced with large gussets. I have rebuilt the bunks twice raising the boat about 2 inches above the fenders because the fenders were flexing with a trailer and would hit the bottom of the boat. Recently had a tire wear issue went back to float on trailers and he asked what the rig weighed. I went to a certified scale and to my horror and amazement the trailer and boat weighed over 12,000 pounds. The tires were wearing on the inside significantly, and Tim the owner of Float On recommended replacing one of the axles and adding a third axle. So now is a three axle trailer. The three actual trailer takes potholes much easier than the two axle however tight turns cause a lot of scuffing to the outside of the tires this was a new problem that I was not told about on three axle trailers is try to avoid tight turns on hard surfaces. The three axle fenders appear to be working well however I have had to tighten the bolts on the fenders twice on my 1500 mile present journey to the Canadian Maritimes. I use H rated tires 14 ply on my trailer and they have given me good service. I also try to keep the speed around 55 mph, traveling faster I don’t get to see much of the countryside is it speeds by too quickly and I’m more interested in the journey and not the destination.
 
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