New boat on lift

[captlou]

We just purchased a new 28 Cutwater a will keep it on a lift. I need to configure my lift for said boat. I saw one recently that was simply sitting on standard 12’ bunks. The bunks were sitting/lined up just inside the inner most chines. The owner said he has had no problems with this arrangement. Anyone else have recommendations?

 

[jagizzi]

Andrew has the boat lift dimensions on this site. Forum Index ==> Ranger Factory Technical Bulletins==>Boat Lift and Trailer drawings

 

[captlou]

Thanks. I have that info already and it is somewhat helpful, but I was hoping that a C28 lift kept owner could chime in. Dimensions and a pic would be great, Thanks again

 

[jswhal]

Here are some pics of mine on a lift, note they had to use special riser blocks to hold the bunks. (Apologies for the bottom paint, it's from the previous owner who kept her in the water.)


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FkTuG ... U71neIkE7T
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ze_Ux ... YiOSqUJLq2
https://drive.google.com/open?id=15J01j ... xEvI-2Iqot
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rZXFw ... Ni1wu3MuNt

 

[Nutedog]

We have 28 Cutwater on lift in Florida. My guy used risers for clearance of the cross beams and alum bunks with rubber covers. Beware of any thru hull clearance issues we had initial issue with raw water inlet but corrected by notching the bunk. A bit bothersome in that you have to be careful of boat bunk orientation to insure inlet is in the notch.

Going on 7 years no issues .

 

[DonnellMac]

What's the worst thing that can happen if you're not careful about the inlet being in the notch by the way?

 

[Nutedog]

First off we made the notch big enough for some wiggle room. Our inlet looks to be brass and protrudes from the chine that the bunk rests upon. So I guess the worst thing would be the intake could be crushed and need replacement. This to me means diver or haul out. Neither would be much fun.
This also helps with getting the boat in the right orientation front to back on the lift for balance just an added reminder.
I have marked just outside the helm window the notch points front to back about an 8 inch range. I line up the vertical pole with notch markings and bingo were good to lift.

 

[captlou]

Thanks...very helpful. I will try and avoid any protrusions.

 

[mjq1987]

The factory provided drawings are a good starting point, but in addition to getting the actual measurements/dimensions for thru-hulls, keel, screw, etc., the actual center of mass should be considered. The posted drawings indicate a CM which, based on my calculations/measurements, are for a boat with empty fuel/water/holding tanks and without anything else loaded onboard.

For an R29CB, the CM with fully loaded water/fuel tanks, empty holding tank and normal cruising equipment load is approximately 18" aft of the CM indicated on the drawing. I factored some indeterminable amount of potential variance into the plan when we had our lift redone to support the tug, but that 18" (or whatever it is for other hulls) could make a big difference if the lift doesn't have a large margin for boat positioning variations.

For ease of boarding/loading, I back the boat onto the lift, but I configured the lift/pier to be able to pull bow-in, too, for waxing, bow-thruster access, etc. Once we got everything in place, I measured the tension in the lift cables when the boat is stern in and it's 6965/5275 (aft/fwd). Based on the CM being relatively far aft, bow-in is 3800/8440 (fwd/aft) which is about as close as I would want to get to the margin. Luckily, I will only have the boat bow-in for short periods.

I opted for a 20,000 lb lift for a 12,240 lb loaded boat, which I thought was super conservative, but by the time the pilings were driven and the lift was installed, the project exemplified the "measure with a micrometer, cut with an ax" philosophy, so I'm glad I went big!