Oil and Fuel Filters

B

Boatdreamer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2012
Messages
266
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Non-Fluid Motion Model
17 Keywest
Vessel Name
Gratitude
I have a question about oil filters for our 4BY2-180. These are getting harder to buy locally and the price just keeps going up. I was paying about $45 but now they are up to $57 if I can find one. Has anyone found an alternate filter for a lower price and if so, will it void our Yanmar warranty? Second question. Has anyone changed the primary fuel filter assembly to a Racor 500? And third question. Changing/cleaning the oil filter/screen on the Mase 2.7. Has anyone found a way to do it, short of pulling the genset out? Thanks

Tim and Donna
Gratitude
 
I get them from Ranger Tugs. You can download the parts order form on the left side of the Tugnuts home page.

Howard
 
Same here, I buy them from Ranger. The price differential going somewhere else seems to me to be insignificant. You can get a replacement Mann oil filter at an auto parts store.
 
Tim, the Mann Oil filter part number that Mike referred to is HU 722 z, I've used this filter in two oil changes and from all appearances it looks identical to the Yanmar filter. As far as the Genset oil filter screen, it is difficult to get to however with patience and the proper tools I was able to get the cover off and clean the screen filter without any problems just last week....no need to dismount the entire genset. I'd agree that the access could be more desirable but it is doable.

Jim
 
Tim, those of us with Cummins power in our tugs also face somewhat of the same issue regarding spare parts such as filters, etc. Cummins and Mercrusier dissolved their joint venture thus leaving a pretty good gap in service support. Regarding your question on converting to the Racor 500, I did this several years ago and really like the 500 over the small 110 which the tug came standard with. The Racor 110 was the primary filter for both engine and generator which worked okay but was messy to service and you could not have sight of fuel in bowl for water, etc. The 500 is extremely easy to change filter, has clear bowl and I was able to mount a vacuum gauge at the t-handle. Good indicator of fuel system, as long as a good vacuum is being pulled the engine is happy. I plumed the fuel system for the Racor 500 to feed the engine (secondary) filter and the 110 feeds the generator. Bottom line, in my opinion a good conversion.
 
I was recently at the Kent factory to pick up some parts from Richard.
In general Yanmar parts are expensive.
Richard is constantly Looking for parts that meet specs for a lower price.
 
I buy from Ranger for my 4BY2-150. Last time was a few years ago and I bought as many as I could afford at the time to avoid the price increases that always seem to happen over time.
 
Thank you for the great information on my filter questions. I've ordered my oil filters from Amazon for the engine. I'll order the Racor 500 before I change out the fuel filter again. Thanks Jim for the advice on the oil filter screen in the Mase, I think I can get it out, but I'll need a big dose of patience before I tackle that one. I plan on doing a 250 hour service before we head to the Bahamas the middle of July with the group from Seagate Marine.

Tim and Donna
Gratitude
 
A few question on the Racor 500 installation does the water sensor that is on the Yanmar installation screw out and can it be used on the Racor or do you have to buy a sensor with the Racor setup? I also assume there is a threaded fitting in the bowl to install the sensor? And how many microns is the filter to be used?
 
The Racor 500MAP10 includes a water probe.
I have no information on it's compatibility with the Yanmar electronics - but the odds are it is a 12/24 volt industry standard.
The fuel line fittings are 3/4 - 16
The Racor 110A that we all seem to have is 1/4 - 18 fittings .
EBAY lists new filters ranging from $14 to $22
I know that Ranger has to stick with name brand filters for liability reasons = more money = $57

There is a Racor 100 series filter with a clear bowl and a drain cock that is interchangeable with the 110A. I wonder why Ranger did not go that route.

EBAY is your friend.
Seek grasshopper and ye shall find.
 
Here is a Racor 500 on sale at Defender for $170.00 http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2349060&id=133655 If you enlarge the picture it looks like there is a threaded plug and I am trying to find out if our water sensor on the yanmar will fit it. It also shows it as being a 2 micron filter. and in my original question I was also asking what everyone else is using for microns and can you order different microns for this package.
 
Hi Mike. This clip is from Boattest.com: The 4BY2-180 has two onboard fuel filters; a 10 micron fuel filter/water separator and a 3 micron fine particulate fuel filter. I think when I make the change, I'll stick with the 10 micron filter. I have the same question about the water sensor fitting.

Tim
 
Mike, I would suggest going with the 10 micron. I can not address the WIF sensor location on a Yanmar as our tug is Cummins and the WIF is located on the engine mounted secondary filter thus allowing the Racor 500 primary to retain the drain cock.
 
In the past, I have used a pair of channel locks to remove the top of the oil filter housing. I would like to use the correct tool. Can someone tell me the correct size socket (metric or SAE) for the screw off lid on the 4BY2?
 
Barry Cohen":1sg5q2wm said:
In the past, I have used a pair of channel locks to remove the top of the oil filter housing. I would like to use the correct tool. Can someone tell me the correct size socket (metric or SAE) for the screw off lid on the 4BY2?
Click to expand...

It is a 36mm socket made specifically for oil filters. I picked one up at Pep Boys auto parts store, 3/8 drive. With a short extension it's easy access and removal. Don't forget that the filter cap is required to be torqued to the proper tightness per the Yanmar manual.
I have one hell of a time removing the old filter element from the housing, I have to pull and twist extremely hard to get the old element loose. I don't know if this normal or not. What have others experienced??
 
Thanks Brian. I, too, have to "tug" pretty hard to remove the element.
 
I changed the oil and filter last week, trying to pull the element out I actually pulled the center shaft out of the cap. I thought I had broke it and started to panic and said a few choice words. I then got the element off and found that the shaft snaps into the cap so all was good.
 
I'm going to try Amazon Plus this year.
 
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