Oil Change Problem--Volvo D3--2014 R 27 Classic

[Larry H]

I need some advice. I attempted an oil change today. This is the first time I have changed the engine oil myself since I got the boat. It did not work out well.

I started by running the engine (boat is on the trailer) on a hose, until the temp gauge said 120F.

Then I attempted to pump out he oil thru the dipstick hole, using a Jabsco Self-priming Electric drill Pump Kit.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/jabsco-self-priming-electric-drill-pump-kit-17215-0000

The tube that goes in the dipstick hole is about 3/16-1/4in diameter. This pump has worked well on my previous boat with a Ford Lehman 120hp diesel. I have been changing engine oil in that engine with that model pump for over 10 years with no problems.

After pumping for 20 min or so, I had about one quart of oil in the jug. The dipstick confirmed that the engine was down about one quart.

Does anybody have any suggestions? This is way too slow to be useful.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

We have the Volvo D4 on our R29S so it may be a little different. With that in mind I had no problem on our prior Yanmar but when I went to change the oil on the D4 my pump experienced the same problem. On the D4 there is a second dipstick tube. When I used this tube the pump worked as it should have. Look to see if your D3 is set up the same and if so try this.

Jim F

 

[claytongroup]

We had an oil analysis done on our R-27 prior to purchase and pulled the sample out via a plastic hose through the dipstick. The process was frustrating with little oil coming out and we found the end of the plastic tube deep down in the oil reservoir actually curled upwards out of the oil. Once we re-inserted the tube, and not too far, it worked fine.

You may want to try this, and I hope it solves your issue.

 

[BB marine]

I have a 1/4" Stainless steel tubing made made up to pull oil from the bottom of the pan. I have a Jabsco oil pump. At the bottom of the tubing I have a slight angle cut. I insert the tubing into dip stick tube and slide it down until I feel it hit the bottom of the pan. The oil has to be warm and it takes a while to pull all the oil from the pan because it is pulling through a 1/4" tube. I have my bucket marked for 5 quarts. Normally I pull five quarts from pan before the pump starts sucking air. I use this tube also for pulling oil from the reverse gear. Note: If you are performing an oil analysis do not pull from the bottom of the pan or bottom of reverse gear while retrieving oil for your sample. There is sediment on the bottom pan and gear that may give a false reading of contaminates. I have a D3 Volvo.

 

[Larry H]

Question......

How hot do you get the engine before extracting the oil?

I ran the engine till it was 120F on the dash meter, maybe that is not hot enough?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Craig]

I have always gotten the temp to normal operating temp, 185. Also, there should be an access port for pumping the oil on starboard side aft rather than using the dipstick hole.


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[BB marine]

The warmer the better. I usually don't get it up to full operating temperature because I'm either changing oil at the dock or on the trailer. The engine doesn't get much warmer then 120F or 130F unless it is run up under a load. The key is to run it for 10 or 15 minutes so the oil circulates enough. The oil is 15W 40 so it doesn't need to be Hot to pull from the crank case. The D3 doesn't have a second tube to pull oil from. Just the dipstick tube.

 

[S. Todd]

I have had excellent service extracting oil with the West Marine 6.9 quart vacuum extractor, Model Number 11047123. I also used this extractor on my last Mercruiser that had a drain plug that was not easy to get to. It works easily and is relatively fast. Pours out into a container for recycling with no mess. The suction also works nicely on the transmission fluid.
I use it on the closed system antifreeze too but have not yet found a good way to affix it to the drain on the heat exchanger to avoid spillage.

 

[Toucan]

On TOUCAN, I use a 5/16" diameter steel brake line tube to pump the oil out of a Volvo Penta D-3 engine. Cut the flare off square on one end so the tube will insert into the dipstick tube. It is tricky to get the right length. Too short and it will not reach the bottom of the crankcase. Too long and you will not clear all the stuff mounted on the wall. The dipstick tube connects to the block through a flexible coupling and the tube is secured by a screw. Remove the screw, pull the dipstick tube closer to vertical so the extraction tube can clear all the hoses next to the engine and get into the dipstick tube. If the extraction tube is cut at a slight angle to match the angle of the dipstick tube, it can seal on the bottom of the pan and you will not get oil out very fast. Because of the thin wall of the steel tube, the internal diameter is larger than a plastic or rubber tube and the flow rate is a lot faster.

Barry Thompson

 

[Larry H]

Follow up to my post

Problem solved! Thanks to everyone who answered. I purchased the West Marine extractor AND warmed the engine up to 155F. The warm up took 25 min running on a hose on the trailer. The extractor worked well.

I did learn that the oil filter cap should be loosened a bit first to allow the oil in the filter to drain to the crankcase before extracting the old oil.

The oil filter is unlike any I have ever serviced. The Volvo manual does not say that you have to remove the plastic insert from the old filter and reinsert it into the new filter. I used a large long socket to press the plastic part out of the old filter. The rubber ring gasket in the cap is easy to remove using needle nose pliers. I was a little nervous applying 18 lb-ft of torque to the plastic cap. The torque number shown on the cap is in Newton-meters, be careful with the conversion.