Oil for Volvo D4

[Longbranch Louie]

The Volvo D4 manual says that the sae 15w-40 diesel engine oil used must meet API CH-4 or CI-4 and also VDS2 specs.
VDS2 stands for "Volvo drain specification" so of course the only label that seems to include the VDS2 designation is Volvo brand oil. Im not opposed to using Volvo oil but it is more difficult to locate without shipping it.
I bought some Castrol GTX diesel sae 15w-40 that meets the CH4, CI4 required by Volvo as well as a CJ4 and CG4 API rating but nothing listed about VDS2. I called Castrol and they didn't know what the VDS2 even meant. Volvo Penta HQ doesn't take phone calls or email for service questions.
Is there a list of engine oils that Volvo recognizes or a local Volvo dealer that could advise? Even using Volvo oil a situation good arise where a different brand had to be used.
Or a good local source for Volvo oil?

 

[walldog]

I was told by Ranger Tug factory to use any good diesel oil such as Shell Rotella T. Not to use synthetic until after 500 hours. What are the other Volvo Ranger Tug owners using?

 

[walldog]

A quick Google of the VDS2 specs turns up this:

ADVANTAGE 15W40 Premium CI-4+ Heavy Duty Engine Oil

PDF versionPDF version
ADVANTAGE 15W40 PREMIUM ENGINE OIL is formulated to meet or exceed the warranty requirements of all manufacturers of diesel and gasoline engines. This oil is formulated to meet the Mack EON Premium Plus ’03 specification and the enhanced CI-4 Plus (supplemental) specification for use in EGR equipped heavy-duty diesel engines in high output service. Advantage 15W40 Premium meets the performance requirements of most diesel engine manufacturers such as Caterpillar, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, Ford, Mack, Navistar, and Volvo. It can be used with complete success in over-the-road diesel trucks, off-highway diesel equipment, farm tractors, and passenger cars and light trucks with diesel engines, turbo-charged or non turbo-charged and well as gasoline engines. This oil meets or exceeds all the requirements of API CI-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF AND SL. ADVANTAGE 15W-40 also meets the extended drain requirements of Cummins CES 20076, Mack EO-M Plus, and Volvo VDS. Manufacturer Specifications: Allison C-4, Caterpillar TO-2, Cummins CES 20076, CES 20077, CES 20078, Detroit Diesel series 50, Detroit Diesel series 92, DDC series 2000, DDC series 4000, Mack EON , Mack EON Premium Plus ’03, Mack EO-M Plus, EO-M, Volvo VDS, VDS-2, VDS-3, Global DHD-1, and ACEA E5.

Also it appears your Castrol and My Rotella meet the VSD4 specs.

Rotella T with Triple 15W-40 CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CH-4, CF-4, CF, ACEA E9; Caterpillar ECF-1, ECF-2, ECF-3; Cummins CES 2081;
Protection SM Detroit Diesel 93K218; Deutz DQC III-05; Ford WSS-M2C171-E;
Mack EO-O Premium Plus; Volvo VDS-4; MAN M3575; Mercedes-
Benz 228.31; MTU Cat 2; JASO MA, JASO DH-2; Renault RLD-3

 

[walldog]

Here is a good link for oils:

http://fleetowner.com/site-files/fleeto ... -specs.pdf

 

[Longbranch Louie]

Thanks for the info guys. The D4 on line manual says its a VDS2 that's needed and doesn't even show a VDS4 yet. Anyone know what the difference is between the 2 ,3 and 4 ? The tables you provided show mostly a VDS4 designation and the Castrol , advantage and Shell products seem to list VDS4 ratings.

 

[Longbranch Louie]

Its appearing that the number has something to do with the time allowance between oil intervals. The VDS4 shows 500 hrs and the VDS2 in the manual shows 100 hrs (or 12 months). Am I right on this?
The Volvo lubricants site shows the VDS4 for D4 to D8 engines. Oh how I long for the days when it all said 30w.

 

[walldog]

If it is like all other oil spec designations higher numbers are OK. 4 would be the same as or better than 2 or 3

 

[Levitation]

Rotella and Delo are available at most auto parts store across the country, most WalMarts, etc. and would be my choice simply for availability and competitive pricing. These oils meet the service grade requirements of all diesel engines - no matter the country they were designed or manufactured.

Engines 'break in' on synthetic no differently than on fossil oils - but make yourself happy (shrug).
For our boats the two advantages to a synthetic oil is (1) on a chilly morning they crank faster so they start promptly and (2) oil pressure will come up faster on a chilly day when the engine has not been started for a considerable period of time.

A third advantage might be on a longer cruise where you might have to go 10 or 20 hours past the recommended oil change in hours, with a synthetic this is a nothing delay. No excess wear will occur. Many of the diesel pickup folks use a synthetic and change oil in the 7,000 to 10,000 mile range. I am one of those.

Engines may, or may not, go longer before an overhaul on a synthetic - depends on the use. For the average user they will 'die of old age' before they wear out.
The 1800 rpm marine diesel in commercial use (runs every day) is proven to go 12,000 to 30,000 hours before needing rings and bearings, etc. For our 3600 rpm engines you can likely cut those hours in half.
Several studies have been done to see what the actual predictor of wear is and they found that it is total fuel burned, not hours, that predicts when an overhaul will be needed. For an engine in regular use that is run at 80% of rated horsepower or less, the number most often quoted is 40,000 gallons of fuel burned.
For our recreational boats rust is the major killer of our engines. If you want you boat to run for a long time, use bargain oil and run it every day.

 

[bbrh842]

Cheapest of all, Ford Motorcraft oil for diesels at Walmart. I currently use Shell Rotella, but I don't see why the Motorcraft wouldn't be just as good, and it costs about half what Rotella costs. Comments anyone?

 

[Levitation]

I'm thinking you are right.
Check the back of the jug for the service rating required by your engine manual.
If it is there it will do the job.

 

[wefings]

I'm thinking I'd use better oil and buy cheaper beer...............
Investment as opposed to rental.........
Marc

 

[walldog]

I'm thinking I'd use better oil and buy cheaper beer...............
Investment as opposed to rental.........
Marc

LIKE 😀

 

[gerlots]

I worked as a Staff Chief Engineer for Washington State Ferries for 27 years. We did extensive testing on lube oils of all the major brands.
The winner was Delo 400. Hundreds of thousands of hours of proof.

 

[RProffer]

gerlots,
How did Rotella T fair in the survey?

 

[knotflying]

I am the first person to save a buck when I can, but I think I would go with name brand oil bought at Walmart, rather than Walmart brand oil. If an issue occurs with your engine, try to fight that one. Figure out what you spent for the boat and other things associated with boating and oil cost, no matter how expensive, will be at the bottom of the list. As a matter of fact fuel places third on our cost list. Groceries, booze and eating out are the top three! I think they are also the top three when on land as well. :lol: Moral of the story, eat and drink less and buy name brand oil.

 

[gerlots]

Hate to say this but, Shell oils fared poorly as we were getting heavy sludge buildup in the bases and valve gear. And that was with lube oil centrifuges that separated suspended solids.

 

[Levitation]

To each his own

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
read the entire site

more specifically
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... 8HDEO%29_-

In my case it is all about the money. Just spent $600+ on oil and filters for this season for the farm engines.
And two duramax that need oil changes (red one is done this morning along with tire rotation - white one is pending)

TSC storebrand 15W40 for the combine which is 60% of the price of Rotella/Delo - gets changed annually and the engine runs for less than 2 weeks, then back into the shed for another year. You cannot use up the wear package in two weeks, even in bargain oil. Combine engines have only 2 speeds, idling and full throttle right up against the governor. 4700 hours on this engine (97% at full throttle) and still running strong 30+ years later.
Rotella T6 for the trucks on a 10,000 mile change schedule - ya, ya, I know I'm wasting money here :mrgreen:
The tractors get Rotella or Delo 15W40 fossil oil (whatever one is on sale at bargain city) on a roughly 150-200 hour schedule. These engines have 6000-plus hours on them and for most of their lifetime ran on oilssignificantly less effective than even the cheapest CJ4 oil available today.

Our boat engines are pampered beyond belief. Run at part throttle most of the time. Only started at temperatures above 32 degrees. Oils are changed compulsively (which is good) Most run with expensive synthetic oil in them (not a band thing, but not necessarily better than a good multigrade fossil oil)

In the end oil choice is like religion. Go with your beliefs.

 

[Levitation]

To each his own

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
read the entire site

more specifically
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... 8HDEO%29_-

In my case it is all about the money. Just spent $600+ on oil and filters for this season for the farm engines.
And two duramax that need oil changes (red one is done this morning along with tire rotation - white one is pending)

TSC storebrand 15W40 for the combine which is 60% of the price of Rotella/Delo - gets changed annually and the engine runs for less than 2 weeks, then back into the shed for another year. You cannot use up the wear package in two weeks, even in bargain oil. Combine engines have only 2 speeds, idling and full throttle right up against the governor. 4700 hours on this engine (97% at full throttle) and still running strong 30+ years later.
Rotella T6 for the trucks on a 10,000 mile change schedule - ya, ya, I know I'm wasting money here :mrgreen:
The tractors get Rotella or Delo 15W40 fossil oil (whatever one is on sale at bargain city) on a roughly 150-200 hour schedule. These engines have 6000-plus hours on them and for most of their lifetime ran on oils significantly less effective than even the cheapest CJ4 oil available today.

Our boat engines are pampered beyond belief. Run at part throttle most of the time. Only started at temperatures above 32 degrees. Oils are changed compulsively (which is good) Most run with expensive synthetic oil in them (not a band thing, but not necessarily better than a good multigrade fossil oil)

In the end oil choice is like religion. Go with your beliefs.

 

[knotflying]

Denny,
You may be right, but the way I look at it is you do not want to give the manufacturer anything to hang their hat on if an issue come up.
The other thing though is that although our engines are somewhat pampered, they do run at a much higher RPM than your usual automotive engine. On my R-27 I can run all day at 3,600 rpm and this is much higher than my usual cruise on my truck at about 1,600 RPM. I would want a specified oil in the crankcase until my warranty was over, then perhaps go for the off brand. However, like I said the cost of the oil is really insignificant as compared to the other expenses associated with boat ownership.

 

[CAPTCRUNCH]

In 1975, Congress enacted the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.), one provision of which restricts a warrantor from requiring a consumer to use, at the consumer's expense, any article or service that the warrantor identifies by brand name in order to retain remedies provided by the warranty, unless the Federal Trade Commission is satisfied that the product will not function properly otherwise or that such a waiver is in the public interest. 15 U.S.C. § 2302(c). My interpretation is that if Volvo requires an engine owner to use Volvo (or any specific brand) oil, it has to provide the oil free or it is breaking the law. Otherwise, meeting the specs should be enough to preserve warranty rights, and many oils do. For example, Tractor Supply's house-brand diesel engine oil claims to meet all three VDS specs http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/t ... l#desc-tab