On hull trailer running lights for RT 25 Classic

[scross]

Finishing up my spring boat maintenance with a conundrum.
No running lights+turn signals on the little lights on the boats hull. Read the owners manual and nothing mentioned there other than that they exist. Did several searches here with no joy.
So here’s the question(s)
1. Is there an undocumented fuse within the wiring of the boat for this circuit? If so where is it located?
2. Are these lights wired in series like the old Christmas tree lights where when one bulb goes out they all go out?

I’ve measured power to the trailer side flat four connector and that’s good. I’ve replaced the boat side flat four connector in the anchor locker so the problem is not in that connector. I’m stumped!

 

[Kevin Lamont]

Finishing up my spring boat maintenance with a conundrum.
No running lights+turn signals on the little lights on the boats hull. Read the owners manual and nothing mentioned there other than that they exist. Did several searches here with no joy.
So here’s the question(s)
1. Is there an undocumented fuse within the wiring of the boat for this circuit? If so where is it located?
2. Are these lights wired in series like the old Christmas tree lights where when one bulb goes out they all go out?

I’ve measured power to the trailer side flat four connector and that’s good. I’ve replaced the boat side flat four connector in the anchor locker so the problem is not in that connector. I’m stumped!

Hello,

These lights are wired just like a trailer so if one is bad it wont take them all out, only would limit just the marker, turn and brake. Do the trailer lights work? If you would like to email me I can help you more if you need, my email is below in my signature.

Thank you,
Kevin Lamont

 

[scross]

Kevin,
Thanks for your response.
I found a problem and now have most of the hull mounted trailering lights working. There was some chaffing of the boat side ground wire where it goes through the hole exiting the anchor locker then runs down the side of the boat. I now have running, r&l turn signals and brake lights on the hull working. The reverse and courtesy lights at the aft transom are still inop but I can live with that.
Because we trailer so much, having vibrating wires making a bend against raw fiberglass seems problematic. I added shielding around the wire bundle at that point. The windlass wires go through that same small hole so I added shielding to them as well.
On to the next project!

 

[ohioan55]

I do not have the harness that goes from the bow connector to the trailer/tow vehicle connector. Is there a place to purchase these or a wiring schematic so that I can make my own?

 

[scross]

Earlier I called that connector a Flat Four. It’s really a Flat Five connector in our boat. These connectors are pretty common to find in most auto parts stores. The wires on these connectors are all color coded and labeled with their individual purpose.

Check to see what the connector is in the anchor locker to make sure you are preparing the correct type of setup. Mine is the Flat Five but it’s possible smaller boats used the Flat Four. The following comments assume it’s a Flat Five connector on the boat side.

Our boat trailer was built custom for us and we had them include a long connection going up the trailer winch tower so it wasn’t something I made but it’s easy to do.

All you need would be the truck side Flat Five connector (shown here) https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins ... FNEALw_wcB
some wire connectors, some zip ties or wire shroud (called split loom) and 10 feet or so of blue, white, brown, orange and green 14 AWG wire.
Connect the same color 10 ft wires to the same color wires on the new Flat Five connector then run the shielded bundle down the trailer winch tower to your existing trailer light wires. Make sure the colors on your existing trailer are properly colored for their function with a multimeter. Then connect the new wires to the existing trailer wires. Protect everything from the elements and you are done.

If your not confident about doing the work yourself most utility trailer rental places (e.g. U-Haul) have the parts and can do the install for you for a fee.

PS: The standard color scheme for my Flat Five connector is:
Brown = Running Lights
White = Ground
Yellow = Left Turn (and possibly Left Brake too)
Green = Right Turn (and possibly Right Brake too)
Blue = Electric brakes (if your trailer has electric brakes)

 

[PanaSeaAh]

You gave a good description of the wiring needed. Our R 25 had the five way flat connector. Since a four way will plug into a five way, you can go from either, but you need five way to get the backup lights. I found the connector harness below made up in 72" lengths which saved having to make the wire bundle. I used two of them. This reached from the plug in the boat to the trailer tongue going down the mast/winch stand on the trailer, and was less expensive than the bulk wires. Spliced the first one into the trailer wiring where it came out of the tongue, and then just tied it to the winch mast and wrapped it with split-loom protector. Added the second one to go from the winch mast to the bow of the boat. I did extend the ground wire through the tongue up to the ground lug for the coupler, However, I'm sure it could have been grounded to the tongue at the other point where I picked up the light circuits with a new ground screw. If you have five-way on the trailer, AND if the trailer has hydraulic brakes, the blue wire is the back-up light circuit (as well as the solenoid on the hydraulics). If you have electric brakes, the blue wire is the charging circuit for the electric emergency brake, and no back-up lights. The courtesy lights on the stern are on a switch in the boat, and not connected to the towing circuits.
The marine crimp connectors with the shrink tube collars work well for the splices. Go up one size and put two wires in one side and one out of the other end. A small dab of silicone on the side with two wires coming in to the connector will help seal that side when the tubing shrinks. I could not find a "tee" crimp connector. I'm in fresh water, so someone may have a better idea for the splices, or maybe splice in at the front of the trailer in an area that would not normally be submerged 😳
I am going to add the loom protector to the wiring in the anchor locker. Thanks for that info.

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