Overhang wood removal

D

dclagett

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
498
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
I am trying to remove the wood under the overhang at the cabin door. I removed all of the screws and tried to pry the wood from the overhang, no luck. I assume the light is only attached to the wood and not screwed into the overhang. In addition there is no caulking that I can see between the wood and the overhang.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
There was some sealant used on my C28. A bit of prying was all it took to remove the panel. Have a pole or such ready to support the panel (also using the door) as the wires to the light are not easily removed.
 
Sealant is used to glue the panel on. Sikaflex, I believe. At least that's what the factory advised me to use in replacing mine.

In my case, there were two large roundish pancake-size globs on the underside, right and left, and in a few inches from the sides, towards the middle. I was easily able to get some give at the sides, but not enough to get a good stout tool well underneath. So I started working my way in as best I could, using a small pry bar, a large screwdriver, and a variety of other tools. The closer I got to those pancakes, the less give, and the harder it was to get any leverage or find space to slip any of the tools further underneath. It was was slow process. I eventually created enough space to slip a chisel in and under to hack through the large pancakes of sealant on the panel. In some areas, the backside of the wood on the panel tore free. Once I got about half of it off, I then had enough leverage to pretty much rip it all off, mostly tearing it free of the sealant at that point. To my surprise, I ended up getting it off in one piece. It might have gone faster if I had treated it more as a demo project and torn it off in slivers and pieces.
 
Thanks everyone. I suspected they used sealant, but I thought I would ask the group before I dug into it further.

Thanks again.
 
A suggestion in case you replace with the same kind of wood veneer.

The replacement panel that the factory sent me had several good coats of polyurethane varnish on the finished surface. I had confidence that side would hold up well, better than my original had. But the backside and beveled edges were raw wood.. Although the panel backs up to the fiberglass overhang, it is still subject to moisture, expansion, etc. To minimize that, I treated the backside and raw beveled edges before reinstalling. I first gave it a good soak of CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealant). It's an expensive product that isn't worth buying for a small project like this. But I had it on hand. Then I gave it at least two good coats of marine epoxy, which I also had on hand. I feel confident that the new panel will outlast the old several times over now that it is finished well on both sides.

Gini
 
The replacement panel that the factory sent me had several good coats of polyurethane varnish on the finished surface. I had confidence that side would hold up well, better than my original had.
Click to expand...

My 2019 teak and holly overhang is getting long in the tooth and I'm wondering about replace vs. refinish.

Gini,
Were you able to order a like for like replacement from the factory? If so, how was that done?
 
Rocky Lou, yes, I got the replacement through the factory. I can’t recall if it was a warranty replacement or if I had to pay for it, but I think it was under warranty. At the time, the factory still had a parts department and I went through parts to get the replacement. If the piece you need is still being installed on new boats, I would think you can order a new one. No harm in calling the factory and asking.

Gini
 
Thanks Gini, I just emailed parts to see if the Teak and Holly piece was available for sale. That seems like a reasonable option if it were available and can be replaced. I got a quote from a guy who wanted $600 just to sand and reapply polyurethane.I did that once before and decided I wouldn't do it again.

There's a lot of other cheaper coating alternatives, but, unfortunately, for me, I like the look of it and it matches well.
 
You're welcome, Rocky Lou. Good luck. If you get a new piece, consider giving the backside and edges some kind of formidable treatment to protect it from moisture. And see if the face has sufficient coats of polyurethane. The best time to reinforce that finish would be before you install it. I think you significantly increase the odds of having it stand up to the elements well for a long time to come. Good luck!

Gini
 
We're going through the same issue a second time on our C28. Moisture is getting in somewhere. I plan to remove the existing wood panels, sand, and coat with polyurethane on the face and back. Then I plan to put in some drain/vent holes to allow any moisture to drip out. I like the look, but it is a poor design. Any tips or advice would be helpful. Thanks.

Paul
 
We're going through the same issue a second time on our C28. Moisture is getting in somewhere. I plan to remove the existing wood panels, sand, and coat with polyurethane on the face and back. Then I plan to put in some drain/vent holes to allow any moisture to drip out. I like the look, but it is a poor design. Any tips or advice would be helpful. Thanks.

Paul
 
According to parts@Fluid Motion: 1/4" teak and holly veneer marine plywood is sourced through ETT Fine Woods, who has a location in Long Beach. However, they are wholesale only and a local dealer would have to do the job. I contacted one, however, I think the price, if they reply, will be prohibitive. Hence, the net is that you can't buy a replacement OEM piece.

I'm likely then to take a similar approach as Paul, above, and sand and coat with polyurethane. Since mine has only has one bad spot, I'll see how it looks sanding in place before doing the removal as others have stated it's well 'cemented'. As I really don't care for doing woodwork at all, I don't own a decent sander. I'm thinking of buying: https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/products/ros20vsc-0601387514. Any thoughts on what to sand with?

I guess it's like the joker valve in the head, you just need to plan on servicing every year or so...both designs are less than optimal. I'd prefer not to have any outside wood, even teak, on a boat that lives in saltwater.
 
I've done a bit of woodworking over the years, and I've done a greater amount of finish sanding and varnishing. But I suspect there are others with greater experience than mine, so if their advice differs, go with it.

I would go with a1/4 sheet "palm sander." They are great for fine sanding, and this is an instance where you don't want to take off any more material than necessary. They are also good for wet sanding, which I use to put a final finish on epoxy surfaces (kayaks and canoes) before moving on to varnish.

My palm sander is a Porter Cable -- probably 30 yrs old now. Not much has changed in them, and I would trust any major brand. But consider this option: Home Depot rents them by the day. You shouldn't need one for more than a day. Two if you want it to polish up the surface between varnish coats (which can be done well by hand -- it's light work). In my neck of the woods, renting a Makita 1/4 sheet palm sander from Home Depot runs $18 a day.

On the other hand, a quick Home Depot search surfaced a 2 amp Bosch 1/4 sheet palm sander for $49, a 3 amp Milwaukee
also for $49, and a Ridgid for $45. All decent prices. For me, the choice between major brands like those turns on how they feel in my hand -- I would go to the local HD store and test them for weight and "hand fit." As a woman with smaller hands, that makes all the difference in how a tool works for me in practice.

Just remember -- those panels are a veneer. Sand with as light a touch as possible to avoid going through the veneer.

Good luck Rocky Lou!

Gini
 
Having already refinished my teak veneer panel, I can assure you, a random orbit sander is the way to go. It’s a messy job, since most of what you will be removing is the old finish. The veneered plywood is more durable than described, and the fact you are working upside down means an efficient tool will be welcome. I used 120 grit sandpaper. Any unreachable areas can be sanded by hand. I applied a couple of coats of a spar-urethane. Looks fantastic! Easier job than you think!
 
Wow. all great suggestions and I'm learning a bit about sanders. I can see that both the palm and random orbit sanders have their roles to play. I'll research a bit more but would be leaning to buying the random orbit and renting a palm sander as needed. I also have a need for wet sanding gelcoat as I repaired a large scratch using OEM gelcoat that matches the color on my boat. I was able to complete the scratch repair but it takes a lot more wet sanding than I wanted to do by hand and I planned on having my yard finish the job.

The encouragement really helps me as every time I watch a video on how to do refinishing projects, with the many steps and patience required, I always end up saying, 'I ain't doing that'. However, like most here, we do lots of unnatural acts for our beloved boats.
 
Snydzy’s “hands on” experience counts for a lot more than my speculation. An orbital sander would be a better a way to go if you’ve got several mils of finish to get through and the panel veneer is stout. And better if you are leaving the panel in place and working upside down. In the FWIW category, HD rents orbital sanders too!

Gini
 
I was reading this and thought I would chime in for what it's worth. I too have been looking at the soffit ply and doing my best to keep it looking good.
I have been doing a very light hand sand with a mix of 100 and 150grit mounded to a sanding block, and then using Teak oil.
I had a very small flashing point where the ply was just starting to grey. The little edge trim in the middle was looking worse. I sanded that, and then also a very small spot that was "just starting" to turn and coated the entire thing in teak oil. It is a one coat product that has a topping agent in it as well, I am happy with how it has been so far (about 1year) and I keep applying the oil with a rag every 2 months or so when I am hanging around the boat enjoying some time.

maybe your condition is too far gone but, if anyone is just noticing it fade, this seemed to be a good option for me. After I coat it, it bumps up just a touch of sheen, to maybe a satin or pearl level and looks nice.
cheers,
Ed604
 
maybe your condition is too far gone but, if anyone is just noticing it fade, this seemed to be a good option for me. After I coat it, it bumps up just a touch of sheen, to maybe a satin or pearl level and looks nice.
Click to expand...

Interesting idea that I will consider after sanding. Mine sounds similar with only one heavily faded corner, starboard aft, with the rest slightly faded and some spotting. Did you use 'teak' cleaner before teak oil or just 'one step' as mentioned?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top