Overhang wood removal

[Ed604]

Hi Rocky,
No, just the one step. knocked down the the existing finish to open the more faded/slight grey area then hit it with this product to cover the whole area. The hand sanding over the whole area was to knock down a bit of flacking top coat from the original finish and helps to abrade the surface. I then tack clothed the whole thing and applied the oil. I am aware that this product can also have a three step process where a (step 3) topping coat can be used over it but I just have been keeping it more simple and applying the oil with a Rag when I am hanging on the boat.
I will take note of the product so I can reference it by name.
Ed604

P.S. I am not saying that this is the best way, rather this is what I am doing and that I like the look that it gives me.

 

[Rocky Lou]

I found the sanding to be fairly difficult perhaps because I added an extra coat of polyurethane a while back. In any case, with the help of a friend who had quality equipment, we stripped off all polyurethane. I also needed help since one small section had discoloration and that was definitely above my pay grade. He convinced me to leave it that way and use mineral oil on a periodic basis to keep it in good shape.

I'm reasonably happy the way it looks now, albeit not perfect, and it's very easy to keep up mineral oil treatment as needed. I think the main lesson learned here for me is that it should've been prioritized at the first sign of any damage. At that point, a light sanding and coat of hand rub polyurethane could likely keep it going easily.

 

[scubabob]

We're going through the same issue a second time on our C28. Moisture is getting in somewhere. I plan to remove the existing wood panels, sand, and coat with polyurethane on the face and back. Then I plan to put in some drain/vent holes to allow any moisture to drip out. I like the look, but it is a poor design. Any tips or advice would be helpful. Thanks.

Paul

I have the same issue and it seems there is a leak from the U connector on the top where the mast support wire is attached.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

is there any interest from other owners in an HDPE (Starboard) replacement? Mine is getting bad and Im contemplating replacing it with a CNC cut panel from a 3d scan.

 

[marob]

We're going through the same issue a second time on our C28. Moisture is getting in somewhere. I plan to remove the existing wood panels, sand, and coat with polyurethane on the face and back. Then I plan to put in some drain/vent holes to allow any moisture to drip out. I like the look, but it is a poor design. Any tips or advice would be helpful. Thanks.

Paul

Paul on our C28 I used butyl tape on all the bolts and screws on the roof once I removed the two wood panels from the ceiling. Used to have dark water dripping down this pst season nothing. Butyl tape is much better than silicone in my opinion. Removed the hand rails on the swim grid and used butyl tape where it bolts to the swim grid and no rust anymore by the bolts

 

[Headlee]

Marob, thank you for your post to finding a solution to this problem. I sanded, stained, put in vents, and still get the dark water dripping down. So, it appears that you found the culprit in water entering rooftop attachments. I will try your approach with the butyl tape. Thanks.

 

[Red Raven]

I have just finished a recent cleanup of this cockpit overhang on our 2014 R27. I agree it is a challenge. Removing the 1/4” ply panel is troublesome and is risky at best rather than sanding in place. It is clear to me that the primary issue is moisture both from the unsealed surface on the backside above and condensation forming below. The first year I had peeling and bubbling finish, clearly from moisture above. After attempting to use polyurethane for several seasons with limited results I sanded the whole thing down again carefully with 60 grit on a palm sander, then 100 grit, and finally with 220, then teak oil, then 320, then another coat of oil including wipe off. Then following Ed’s plan above, teak oil every several months. The advantage is no sanding required and a simple wipe on, wipe off, layer of oil every several months. More regular work but way easier than sanding!

Curt

 

[GFC28]

Successfully refinished the wood panels on a 2018 C28 that the panels had not been maintained and were unsightly.

Despite not being experienced in wood working, went ahead and did it my self because:
 despite the sources/leads Cutwater parts gave me, replacement panels are not available;
 was told the material is a teak and holly plywood and the teak cannot no longer be imported into the USA due to Myanmar embargo;
 Sanding it is tricky as the teak is 1-2mm thick.

After doing small test areas with a variety of protocol and products, determined:
1) went over the surface with marine grade stainless steel;
2) applied and rubbed with “wiping” rag oxalic acid (teak cleaner). Went through several passes and rags;
3) rinsed — need a very large amount of water from hose to get all off; thoroughly hose down deck and bilge areas;
4) let dry for >24 hrs;
5) went over with marine grade SS wool, then wiped with a tack rag;
5) applied tung with a new wiping rag;
5) let it dry >48 hrs;
6) very lightly went over with a marine stainless-steel wool, then a tack rag;
7) applied second coat tung with a stain brush

Result after a week is very good — much improved appearance and even the white water spots are gone, which was advised would not happen.

Calendar to reevaluate in 3 months and 6 months to see if an application of tung oil is warranted

Pics and specific products used are available if of interest.
Sent from my iPad so please excuse typos