Packless Prop Shaft Seal and Engine Mounts

R

rpmerrill

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2016
Messages
608
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
BAY RANGER
Next week I'll be hauling out early to get new engine mounts installed. Ugh.
The old mounts are ~9 years old and real (crispy) rusty. Not just surface rust.

Nine years is probably pretty good in that environment but I'm thinking about some ways to help.
There are lazarette drains that empty into the bilge in locations that manage to keep the engine mount feet wet.
I'm thinking of ways to modify/divert those drains away from the mounts. Also thinking there may be some ways to dam around the mounts or simply encase them in a nice coat of epoxy or polyester.
Anyone have success with these kinds of ideas?

Also, while the engine is out, I think it might be a good time to replace the prop shaft packing with a packless seal.
(I've got a feeling it may be the ONLY time when this can be done. Is that true.)
I have 1.25" diameter prop shaft written down in my notes somewhere. I'd like to get the new seal ahead of time. What I don't know is the stern tube diameter. I don't think measuring the stern tube is a good idea with the boat in the water.
Does anyone know these dimensions ?

I've got a 2012 R-27, Yanmar 4BY2-180.
Thanks
 
Last year we put a Tides Marine dripless seal in our 2010 R29. Had to move the engine forward 4”. Went well just took more time and money then originally estimated. We are pleased with the results. Had a Tides Marine dripless seal in our last sail boat again liked it.

Jim Demerest
2010 R29 Chessie
 
I just had my engine mounts replaced as well as the cutless bearing. The firm doing the work also took the liberty of installing a dripless shaftseal. Since it is new I cannot comment on how it is working. I also cannot confirm if engine removal was required, because I had them remove the engine to inspect and replace suspect hoses. You may want them to also check the integrity of the bolts holding the mounts. There have been a few of us who needed a hole or two reinforced. While I was at it I also had them service my injectors.
 
Mike, When your project is complete can you post some of the findings of the project ? Difficulty in unseating the coupling from the shaft? How did the removal of the cutlass bearing go ? What shaft seal did you use ? What was the condition of the engine bed, did the lags still have a good bite in the wood or did the service facility have to make repairs. Injectors rebuilt or new? Also, even if you are not having an issue with the starter this would be a great time to either install a new one or have the old one taken apart, inspected, new brushes and bushings installed. I would probably go new $$$ but just my opinion.
 
On this project I elected to have the work done by Diversified Yacht Service In Fort Meyers, FL so I can't comment on how difficult things were. This was my easiest project and most expensive though. :lol: Diversified did a relatively good job, but I kept watch. My contact person was not the greatest with communication, but I survived. I had them coat the new mounts with cold zinc and I plan on installing diverters to keep water away from them as well as rust inhibitor regularly. The injectors were removed and serviced. They had 1.500 hours on them and I figured while at it have them done. Only one bolt, the port rear was not holding and they took care of that. They removed the engine and inspected all hoses. I wanted them replaced, but he said they were in great shape and it would be a waste of money to replace them. The engine bed was very clean with no signs of oil leaks. I did not see the install for the cutless or the dripless. The dripless is a tides seal. I did not intend to replace my standard seal and they took the liberty to do it. The cost was not significant and probably will be a better situation going forward. My observation is that the seal could be installed without engine removal. I got caught in the Covid shutdown so the boat was laid up for over two months. It was supposed to be tied up for a couple of weeks! I did not have the starter serviced. You can probably go crazy with preventive things. I did have the starboard front cover bracket replaced as well as the starboard engine cover. The cover had developed cracks near the oil fill and the front bracket bushing screw separated.
We were anxious to get back north so they even delivered our boat back to the marina in Marco when completed, no charge, supposedly. My total bill was $6,800 a bit steep but right around what I thought it would be. Another good thing, when the job was done I had no scratches or sore muscles.
 
Thanks Mike. Cost seems right. I would imagine labor rate around 100.00 an hour. Given the tight quarters in the compartment and the amount of work completed the price seems in line. It is still hard to spend that money though!!!
 
My rationale is that I have done all of the maintenance work on the boat myself so I am probably ahead of the game. In life it is best to pick your battles and this was one I chose to let someone else do.
 
Good choice. If you find a service center that you trust and the work is done properly. Money well spent.
 
A while back someone asked me if the engine mounts were Yanmar parts.
The old ones taken out and the new ones put in were Metalastik mounts. I went to their website. I was unable to verify which ones I have but by guessing my size, they appear to be about $75 each. Not bad at all. Posting a photo in my album.

I will probably know better when I get my final bill from the yard.
We did a couple extras beyond the engine mount issue. (Original quote $2500)
Installed the dripless shaft seal. - A thing of beauty. (Anyone need an old packing seal - All cleaned up and free!)
My water pump housing had a busted o-ring groove (wasn't me - previous owner?) so we replaced.
And during brief engine run they discovered that the low pressure fuel pump was squirting fuel badly. That was definitely not there b4 the work. They graciously are replacing the $$$ fuel pump with no discussion. Good people!

Also, I was told the engine mount holes were all good. I'm pretty sure they would have let me know if they needed some extra work.
 
Folks, I had my engine mounts replaced and purchased them as Yanmar part numbers through Mastry in Tampa— $307 A PIECE— four times what Rich Merrill paid! They were Metalastik, same as what Rich bought. I did look for a a non-Yanmar source, but was unable to find a suitable replacement.

Rich, when you have the Metalastik part number, post it to the 4BY2 “knowledge thread.” That information is GOLD!

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14771
 
Yikes
Now I'm kind of afraid to look at my final bill.
But I have the Metalastik web site to fall back on. I hope.
 
Taking a look at the Metalastic mounts and there are four choices of rubber hardness and that relates to engine force and torque. How did your supplier know which to choose?
 
Dunno. I do know it depends upon rpm, weight and hp.
We'll see.
 
Thought of that. but I can't pot them in place until after the first run-in and the final alignment on the water next spring.
Then I think a good soaking would work.
 
This just in.....
Forget the election returns.
On my engine mounts... They installed the 17609/1-45 mounts at $93 each. Not too terrible.
The Metalastic site shows $87.50

But there were also height adjuster kits (HAD 16-20) at $91 each.
That is a bit more disturbing. I don't know what they are, but I'm guessing they are longer and larger vertical studs. I saw the mechanic messing with these big studs on each mount. Still researching.
 
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