Poop Tank Levels Classic 27

T

tranmkp

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Messages
189
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Short of a long stick or a strong flashlight at night - how does one know when the "explosion" will happen - Anyone ever do a Tank Tender installation?

I also notice a "TransferPump" switch on the DC panel - Transfer what?
:shock:
 
You could open the engine compartment hatch and see the tank level. Not 100% sure about transfer pump switch. Do you have a macerator pump?
 
I find myself going into the engine compartment for various reasons on a regular basis (check bilge, AC/Genset/Engine seacocks, check oil, check/clean scuppers, check stuffing box, etc.) and so I just take a flashlight along and stick it up against the holding tank for a quick level check. GF
 
If this boat is new to you or you have not used the waste system much you may want to clean the tank good and then you will be able to see the level in the tank as Mike suggested. The tanks are plastic and if not maintained regularly will get a lot of build up and start to stink. There are always threads about vent smells and waste odor. If the system is maintained regularly flushed and the vent hose is 100% unobstructed The system should be odorless if working properly, pumped out regularly and flushed throughly.

The R27 classic at least the few I have been on have good access to the waste tank inspection plate. If you lift the aft cockpit seat you will gain access to this inspection plate. It unscrews. Pump the tank out before cleaning. While at the pump out station or fuel dock use the non-potable water hose to flush the hose from the deck fitting back to the tank and then put the hose into the tank through the inspection plate access port. Spray the bottom and sides well to loosen the waste product stuck to the bottom and sides. Pump out again. The tank is relatively clean at this point. Screw the cover back on the tank. Remove the vent hose on the tank make sure that the tank vent fitting is clear, confirm the thru hull vent is clear. Confirm that the vent hose is clear. No restrictions at all! The bacteria that stinks in a tank lives without oxygen. The bacteria that eats the waste and doesn't stink needs oxygen. Air flow is essential to keep a waste system functioning and keeping odor manageable. Flushing with fresh water will also help eliminate orders that come from the dead critters that end up in the tank from seawater.

If you do this you will have a plastic waste tank that is clear enough that you will be able to see the level and a waste system that you do not have to mask with vent filters and additives to reduce odor. The only additives that should be added are enzymes or food for the good bacteria to do the job of breaking down the waste in the tank.
 
I added a Scad Solo tank monitor to our R27 Classic. It is an easy install with metal foil strips on the outside of the tank. Works great!

Curt
 
I’m copying Red Raven (again!) and just ordered my SCAD TM1 tank monitoring system.
We have been using the 3 gallon a day guesstimate for the past 5 seasons and it worked OK. But after this years 3 week trip to Desolation Sound we decided we needed more precision in measuring the black water tank level.
So, I’ll be installing the TM1 shortly. The SCAD Solo that Curt referenced is no longer in production and was replaced by the TM1.
 
Al,

Regarding the SCAD tank monitor there are two things to use care with. First, be sure to follow the instructions and clean and dry the tank with alcohol where you place the metal foil strips. The tape does not stick to the plastic of the tank unless it is really clean. Second, the SCAD Solo circuit board is sensitive to moisture and is not in a sealed housing. Not sure if that is still the case with the TMI. In any case not an issue unless you install the monitor in the head/shower like I did. I installed mine next to the flush button but originally did not seal around the bezel well and moisture got to the circuit board. It did not damage anything buy messed up the readings until it dried out. After sealing the bezel really well with silicone it has worked flawlessly for years.

Good Luck,

Curt
 
On my RV I would put a couple bags of ice down the toilet while traveling. The ice sloshing around kept the inside of the holding tank clean.
KKRCRACE
 
Brian, you mention that access to the inspection port is easy by just lifting the aft cockpit seat. On my 27, there is a plywood floor in that space that supports the propane tank for the stove and and a big Orange filter and provides space to store other small items. The plywood completely blocks access to anything below, so I assume I would have to remove all that to get to the inspection port? Just trying to make sure we are talking about the same space. Thanks, GF
 
GaylesFaerie":3dog1vfz said:
Brian, you mention that access to the inspection port is easy by just lifting the aft cockpit seat. On my 27, there is a plywood floor in that space that supports the propane tank for the stove and and a big Orange filter and provides space to store other small items. The plywood completely blocks access to anything below, so I assume I would have to remove all that to get to the inspection port? Just trying to make sure we are talking about the same space. Thanks, GF
Click to expand...
My friend, with our vintage boats, you are SOL getting to the holding tank clean out access port. The wooden platform holding the propane locker is glued in place. Later model boats use a removable fiberglass pan in that space and the propane locker is located on the swim platform.

Lucky for me, the glue joint failed on my boat and the wooden platform fell onto the holding tank. I removed it and replaced it with a composite platform edged with aluminum “L” material. I used the old platform as a pattern. Then I drilled the portion of the “L” that rose above the platform for 1/4-20 bolts. Then I drilled the fiberglass seat base and fastened the new platform with 1/4-20 stainless hardware. It’s certainly not as easy to remove as the fiberglass pan, but it can be removed. If anybody tries this, when drilling the seat base, be sure to countersink the drill holes slightly to prevent cracks.
 
GaylesFaerie":1t6988qs said:
Brian, you mention that access to the inspection port is easy by just lifting the aft cockpit seat. On my 27, there is a plywood floor in that space that supports the propane tank for the stove and and a big Orange filter and provides space to store other small items. The plywood completely blocks access to anything below, so I assume I would have to remove all that to get to the inspection port? Just trying to make sure we are talking about the same space. Thanks, GF
Click to expand...

I'm sure different years have different configurations as to the access of the inspection port. The R27 that I was working on had a propane box on the swim platform. It was a newer 2014 maybe 2015. It had a Volvo D3 power plant. The access to the inspection port was as follows. Take the cushion off, we removed the starboard hinged lid, pulled a lot of stuff out of the storage area, removed the base (Floor) I can't remember if that was plywood or starboard. The waste tank inspection port was visible and easily accessible at this point.

This was my boat neighbors boat at Blackfin resort Marathon Key. It was weekly pump out day and he could not get the waste tank to pump out. The tank was full. The culprit was the tank was fouled with waste and the vent was completely plugged. The only way to get the level down to clear the vent and hose was to pump the tank using the access port. (not a nice job to get involved in). We were able to pump the tank down using a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe and a threaded coupling. We stuck the pipe into the tank and pumped the waste out. The owner proceeded to clean the tank as I described in my previous post.

When I owned my C26 the waste tank was in the exact location and the access to the tank inspection port was the same. Every year when I did my full maintenance I did a complete interior washing and flushing of the tank. No waste smell ever in the boat or at the vent. The tank was clear and easy to see waste level no guessing ,wiring, gauges. Just lift the hatch look at the tank and I knew the level. It was a win, win no odor and I alway knew the exact tank level.
 
Thanks for the confirmation Brian. Doesn't sound too difficult, just needs time and planning. GF
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top